# Anchor Light replacement **URL:** \ **Category:** Newsgroups Archive Prior to 2025\ **Created:** [February 13, 2010, 6:47pm UTC](https://nonsuch.discourse.group/t/anchor-light-replacement/3062 "2010-02-13T18:47:14Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![system](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/uploads/n26_115_233/original/1X/39e3f8ffb93f4278d654ae38d831066e407d616b.jpeg) [@system](https://nonsuch.discourse.group/u/system)\ **Post date:** [February 13, 2010, 6:47pm UTC](https://nonsuch.discourse.group/t/anchor-light-replacement/3062/1 "2010-02-13T18:47:14Z")
Hi! I am told by my yard that the anchor light atop my mast is corroded and the entire unit needs to be replaced - not surprising as it has been up there for 22 years. As Cakewalk has no shore-power to recharge her batteries I've been looking at replacing the heavy power-drawing lights that are typically used when the engine is off (running lights, anchor light, eventually some interior lights) with LEDs. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with using a "replacement" LED bulb (such as a Dr. LED bulb). I am considering, due to the cost factor, of purchasing a new Aqua Signal 40 all-around anchor light unit (cost est $50) for the top of the mast and using a Dr. LED all-around white LED (cost est $45) to replace the included incandescent bulb. Total cost est $95 versus $200 plus for the Aqua Signal LED unit. Though Aqua Signal recommends not to use LEDs with their incandescent unit, voiding the warranty if one does, it appears that this should work as the Dr. LED bulbs claim to have built-in voltage regulators to prevent shortening the life of the LED due to voltage fluctuations/drop-outs. If this is a viable option for the anchor light, then I should be able to use the existing running light and stern light units with LEDs too... yes? Please let me know your thoughts/suggestions if you've had experience (good or bad) with this set-up. Best regards, Peter Grabow Cakewalk III - NS30U - #430 NY, NY