Coolant Leak Repair on a W13

Hi Ralph
I believe what I said here was misleading or wrong and you were right.

I think the right answer is- On the port end of the heat exchanger, the top has a zink in the raw water. On the underside of the exchanger, opposite the zink, is a 1/8 NPT brass plug which drains this same raw water chamber. Next to this just 1 inch to starboard is my 1/4 NPT petcock which you say is a plug on yours - this is in the coolant side and drains the antifreeze.

I wish I took photos of these parts when I had it in pieces.

Tom

here’s a link to a complete clean/rebuild of the heat exchanger.

https://marinehowto.com/westerbeke-universal-marine-heat-exchanger-cleaning/

Try online and look for the parts you may need . The world may have stopped but the US mail is still moving and so is Amazon. If you have small leaks clean them out and apply under water epoxie it’s a short term fix Good luck

James P. Moores

Try this site in Chicago, they seem to have most parts at reasonable prices.

Auto stores sell gasket material that can be cut and there are paste like products as well. I’d not start till you have the parts on hand either. Call Anthony Keets in Wheatley he is the master dealer for eastern Canada for Westerbeke and he ships everything . https://anthonykeatsmarine.com/

Thor

Thanks for all the replies and info.

I was down at the boat yesterday, and was just getting ready to start cutting hoses when the word came down from the club executive: The club is closed. Members are not to come down to the club for any reason. Launch is canceled for the foreseeable future. So I packed up my tools and went home.

Looks like we may not get our boats into the water at all this year, and I think there is a real possibility we won’t get in next year either. What a bummer that would be!

Lets all try and stay healthy and sane.

Hi Ralph
I went to the boat Saturday and removed some parts. I think I may have wasted my time removing these parts, and I’ll explain why.

First- I would have gone during the week but the marina said weekend only to avoid contact with the marina employees. A very few optimistic people there were removing winter covers. There were some boats in the water but I believe these are the marina owners boats and work boats. I got the emergency broadcast slap on the wrist at about 2pm but had almost finished my job by then.

Almost everything came out rather easily so I took home the entire exhaust and heat exchanger.
Almost, because the original hose from the injection elbow to the muffler was stuck on (looks like some kind of glue) and very difficult to remove so I had to destroy it. On hindsight I could have just unscrewed the muffler as I did in the end anyway and removed the whole manifold and muffler as a unit and saved me an hour of cursing and pain. I am too old to sit on the shaft log bent in three for an hour without suffering the next day, it’s like yoga if you never did yoga before.

That inside back 1/2 inch nut on the manifold was easy once I got the right combination of socket, short extension, and ratchet. I was lucky to have just the right combination because there is no other way to get a wrench on this nut unless you remove the intake “silencer”.

So all the the 14 stud nuts were easy to get off even though rusty. And so here’s the point - I may have wasted my time.

I get home and last night I start taking it all apart. There are 10 studs, 5 on either end of the manifold. Two of these on the front and four on the back hold on what the parts manual calls a “connector”, a hose nipple. Beneath these are three identical gaskets, then the manifold end cover which is a flat piece of steel, and then another gasket. Of course it’s these gaskets that are leaking, they are rather thick, appear to be some cheap rubbery paper material.

The 10 nuts on these gaskets were loose. I got home and they come off very easily so I thought how about if I tightened them? Those that I did not already loosen could go down a 1/2 to more than a full turn. Especially the 6 that hold on the three “connectors” and compress two of these gasket layers.

I have never touched these nuts before. My general rule is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. But in this case I believe that if I tightened these nuts 12 years ago I would have avoided some problems. There was far less corrosion on the front and back of the engine back then. Also, in hindsight, had I known last week, I would have tightened these nuts and called it good for another season rather than go through this pain.

Also in hindsight, it would be very easy to remove this front plate and redo the gasket while it is still on the engine. I should have done this years ago. If you had new gaskets ready and already had drained the antifreeze for another reason, it would be a 30 minute job. I didn’t because I thought that big plug was holding the plate on but no, it holds nothing.

There is a design flaw in this part. There is no bolt compressing this gasket at the center just under the iron plug. You can see where the gasket was not squeezed well around this plug. In fact, when the plug started to rust, that rust might try to lift the steel plate because the plate fits tightly around the plug threads.

Back end

Front end

Inside front cover plate

This shows some pitting but not between the gasket and steel where the gasket was squeezed between the aluminum and steel plate. These pits in the steel are where there was no aluminum on the other side of the gasket. I think maybe this is an example of crevice corrosion? The surface of the aluminum looks perfect. Bottom left is where the leaking occurred.

The iron pipe nipple and plug in the aluminum extrusion are stuck, I am soaking these to try and loosen but am afraid to break the aluminum if I use too much force. There appears to be a lot of carbon inside the manifold. Big chunks about 1/4 inch thick have fallen out so maybe cleaning it out would be useful.

All the iron pipes and the injection elbow look in good condition but I am not sure if I can get them apart. Maybe I won’t. I am shocked at how heavy they are. I’m sure the guy who designed the nice light exhaust manifold did not expect someone to hang this much iron off the back of it.

Tom

26 C #28 North Star with a W13

Penetang

Wow Tom;

What a detailed reply and great pictures! Thank you very much for doing this!

I literally feel your pain. I am 6’ 4", and just don’t bend enough to get into that engine space anymore. Your insights may just save me hours of misery and discomfort. Based on your experience I have a new plan: I will remove the front plate, clean it up well, and replace all of the gaskets. This should be a relatively simple job working from the front of the engine, and will also give me a chance to clean out any gunk that may have accumulated in the manifold while I have it open. On the back side I will try tightening down all of the bolts and see if this stops the leak there. That seems like a much more doable task than removing the whole thing from the engine to fix the leak at the back.

I got all of the gaskets from Westerbeke, so I will replace as many as I can. They are down on the boat right now, but I did look at them and they seem to be of decent quality.

The big drain plug on the front scares me too. I’m not sure if I have a leak there, but it would be nice to remove it and clean up the threads and replace it with a new one. I don’t recall exactly, but I think the parts guy quoted me something like $30 for a replacement plug. I didn’t purchase one because I am betting that I can purchase one for way less at a plumbing supply store. My plug seems really frozen in place. I can see the front plate breaking long before the plug if you try and force it. Perhaps soaking in penetrating oil followed by heating the plate will get it to move.

It’s all academic for me now. Our club is closed and we are not even supposed to go down to check on our boats. There is still hope that we will be able to do a launch later in the summer, but personally my money would be on that not happening.

Thanks again for the great input. You have completely changed my plan on what I am going to try and do whenever we once again get access to our boats.

Ralph Bush

1983 N26C #104

“Hyggelig”

EYC, Toronto, ON

No problem Ralph
At 6 feet I barely fit. I used to say when my boys get old enough I’ll send them down but they are now taller than me. It happened too fast.

The big plug is definitely frozen. I tried for hours yesterday with oil and heat and a big extension (far longer than anything that would fit in the engine compartment), but no luck with this plug or the opposite nipple. They will probably stay in because I don’t want to break the extrusion. All the studs but one came out easily and look like they had anti seize on them.

Also I am sure this plug and the nipple are not leaking, they don’t close any wet parts of the manifold so can’t be a source of the leak.

There isn’t any dirt in the wet side of the manifold that I can see. When I drained the antifreeze out of the block some black objects and what looked like sand (scale?) came out with it. Next I’ll open the heat exchanger.

I have 2 weeks to work on it because today I heard that no boats will be launched until April 20 at least. It’s a private marina and the owner is probably optimistic and desperate to get the season going.

Tom

Tom: My suggestion if you want that nipple out, would be to thread a cap on it and then bang the hell out of it with a decent hammer. Keep soaking with penetrant and bang the next day or so. The banging allows the penetrant to seep into the threads.

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA