I guess I’m fortunate in that my W-27 has a built in hose attached to the sump.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Yes, my W-33a has that with an attached electric pump that evacuates the oil completely.
FYI. Most of life’s boat issues go away once you convert to electric propulsion. Including maintenance. Just sayin’. 
Mike
BIANKA
1986 30U
http://biankablog.blogspot.com
From: Katmando - Bell
Sent: Monday, November 16, 2015 10:41 PM
To: INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group@googlegroups.com
Reply To: INA-Nonsuch-Discussion-Group@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Multi weight engine oil for W-27
|
- |
Yes, my W-33a has that with an attached electric pump that evacuates the oil completely.
Worth its weight in black gold, oil change in 10 minutes.
Now all I need is a method of changing the filter without lubricating my bilge.
Katmando, NS30u
WHITBY, Ontario
Cheers
– You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups “INA Nonsuch Discussion Group” group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to . For more options, visit .
Mike, if you were to convert today, not that you have run your system for a few years, what brand propulsion system would you go with and would you do anything different?
Hi Jim
On my W21 the dip stick is in the middle of the pan like the drain plug. KInda of an odd design as many uses for this engine would involve some kind of rear incline. I have seen a W27 with a v drive and those engines are level so the problem does not present itself. I made half hearted attempt to bend the tube around in the pan via the dip stick to no avail. I use the drain hose. Maybe a flexible vinyl tube would work, but it may collapse under the vacuum. I have one of those hand pump vacuum cans, slow but it works. Between the oil filter being horizontal and dumping oil and my general clumsiness it is a fun job.
Cheers
Thor
In the past two years since I purchased Minou I let the marinas where I was staying take care of the engine oil. When topping up was necessary I simply used the supply of Rotella 5w40 (I think) that came with the boat.
This year I decided to pay a bit more attention to oil and made some fascinating discoveries:
- the engine manual calls for the use of API Specification CA,CB, CC, CD or better.
- the API (American Petroleum Industry) lists these grades as Obsolete
- the API also indicates that two new oils have been introduced (late 2016) for use in diesel engines: CK-4 and FA-4
- What’s important about these oils, and the FA-4 in particular, is that it is NOT backward compatible with older engines
- The CK-4 is formulated specifically for use on older engines, like ours.
- According to the Diesel Oil Matters website (for agricultural use - sorry no marine use suggested) the CK-4 is also supplied as a 10W30, the oil originally specified in the Westerbeke manual.
I didn’t see anything pertaining to synthetic oils vs non-synthetic in the API website, but I confess I didn’t search a lot.
I hope you find this additional info helpful.
Before we repowered I used synthetic in our westerbeeke 21. It began to use oil. I switched back to Rotella T 10-40 and it stopped using oil.
The manual for our Beta 20 said not to use synthetic. I don’t, I use Rotella T 10-40.
Synthetic may run cooler in some cases but I change the oil and filters every fall so longevity is not an issue.
Rob Powers
Respite 26C #50
First of all, I would never use HD30 as it’s too heavy when cool and a little light when hot. The reason for multi viscosity oil is light when cold and heavier when hot. You need to get lubrication in those bearings right away when starting cranking a cold engine. They ride on a film of oil and the babbitt material does not touch the actual crankshaft unless there is no oil in between. I’ve switched to synthetic and the oil analysis came back better after switching over to Rotella T-6. I almost never have to add oil in between changes and that has not changed after going with the synthetic.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~
Joe
are you still using 15W40 with the T6?
I’ve switched to the T-6 which is 5W40, the Rotella synthetic.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ (_ ~ (_ ~ (_~ ~ ~ ~ ~
This past year, based on comments by Joe, Thor and others, I switched to T-6. I have not had to add oil during the season. I do an oil analysis each year and am curious what it will say this year.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD
Jim
yes, post your results if you will. I was toying with the T6, but found T4 this morning for sale at a heavily discounted price.
I have been using Shell T6 4W40 in both my Westerbeke 21 and my Honda 2 hp outboard for 4 years.
The ratings are API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, SM, SL, SH , So far my oil analysis shows a marked decline in wear from Rotella T at 60 hours per oil change on the W21. The S rating meets Honda specs as well so I need only keep one type of oil on board. CH4 is backward compatible to CD