Mounting Hole long edge spacing is 3", short edge 1.125" Mounting place size is 3.5" x 2"
I’m guessing you may have an out-of-production original block, maybe a Merriman like this?
I’ve replaced them on both my N26s. I had no luck finding a match to the hole pattern. I simply filled those in and used a different block with a base pad that improved the angle to the winch and covered some of the filled holes.
On my first N26, I replaced it with a Garhauer Cheek Block 30-21 SB (www.GarhauerMarine.com). BTW, you can find a complete list of recommended Garhauer replacements for N26 blocks on the INA web site at www.Nonsuch.org. Click on the STORE tab, then hit REPLACEMENT BLOCKS.
It looked like this.
On my second one, I got fancy and put in a stopper block. The only one small enough to fit was an Antal Stopper Deck Block D 65 Left from Vela Sailing Supply (https://velasailingsupply.com/products/antal-stopper-deck-block-d-65-left?variant=53621028061556).
Here’s it set up on my current boat, again with a small base that improves the angle feeding to the winch. The shock cord loop from the stern pulpit that you see right it goes over the stopper lever for when you really want to lock it (e.g., clearing a winch wrap).
Unfortunately, it’s made in Italy. The price has gone through the roof, I suspect due to current politics (tariffs and international shipping costs).
If you go this route, you want to order a left hand version and add something like the shock cord I did. Just throwing the lever will hold the line for clearing a sheet that’s tangled on the winch. Locking it with a shock cord prevents it from slipping free if wind conditions are making the boom swing and the mainsheet tugging back.
-- Bob
The first step I took was to drill it the centre rivet and replace the sheave with a new one. I later decided I liked sitting on the coaming when a new sailor was on the helm and I did not like having to stand up to adjust the sheet so I moved the standing block to the rear deck and used a shackle to attach a turning block to the casting on the starboard rear quarter. The setup is similar to the one on the 30s. It had the added benefit of moving the mainsheet away from the helm. Mark
Looks like you’re not an active INA member. If you join and then login with the email you used to become a member, then you’ll see the STORE tab (and a bunch of other useful information).
-- Bob
Got it!
Thanks Bob
dashline:
I have gone to the Nonesuch website as you suggested, but I don’t see a tab that says store
Looks like you’re not an active INA member. If you join and then login with the email you used to become a member, then you’ll see the STORE tab (and a bunch of other useful information).
-- Bob
The suggested cheek block has a maximum line size of 3/8 inch. My N 26 currently has 7/16 line.
What size line are you guys using?
Despite being spec’ed at 3/8", the 30-21 is the block that Garhauer Marine recommended when the INA asked them to review the Nonsuch block list and suggest what to use. It has a safe working load of 2400 lbs. The N26 manual calls for a block with an SWL of 2000 lbs.
The recommended block should work. If you’re uncomfortable with it, you could either size up to the 40-21 (which is $15 USD more and 3/8" longer, making it harder to fit) or look at other makers. Garhauer’s not the only acceptable source, they’re just the only manufacturers who’ve been friendly enough to go over the Nonsuch block specifications and provide matches.
The manual also specifies the line size of 7/16" that you’re using. That’s what I use, and I suspect what most N26 owners have.
-- Bob
I will get the 30–21
Again, thank you very much. I appreciate it.