Reefing block placement, sail size, and extra roach...OH MY!

This is a great discussion. I acquired a new to me sail this spring. It was made by the now defunct Evolution sails in Toronto. The specs were for 20.5 foot x 40.5ft Luff with a 65% roach (see attached), total sail area 524 ft2. I do race the boat in club racing and this sail is substantially larger than the sail that came with the boat. I’m not sure if my old sail was original or not. The new sail has a lot bigger roach, i assume approaching the maximum. Interestingly enough although the sail is physically larger when our race committee measured my sail last spring, the result was no change to the rating. I considered this a gift and carried on. I was very competitive this year and even won one race! what is see now is the 420 ft2 sail area advertised in the original brochure is the P x E/2 calculation, not considering the roach. This makes a lot of sense now.

I have also questioned the placing of my reef points. They don’t give me the nest sail shape especially the second reef. I hadn’t considered moving the blocks, which i will look at more closely in the spring.

A third point is the interference with the topping lift. This has been an issue with this sail. I have the Klacko Marine made wishbone extension. I moved the point of attachment to the back of the extension. so far is working great, however depending on the choker and topping lift tension, the sail sometimes gets hung up and we have to “flick” it to clear. Im working on a rotating flicker design to help alleviate this issue.

(attachments)


Sail Specs.pdf (581 KB)

Lots of questions to answer which is good. I thought my first response would kill the discussion.

Jim C.
I really don’t know if the location of the blocks was changed at the factory at any time during production. I had always assumed the location was standardized. That assumption may not be correct. For those interested in comparisons on my 26 the distance from the clew attachment point to the reef block is 20" and 56" to the second reef block.

The UK sail I have was made by the UK Sail loft located in Sidney British Columbia for a boat located in Sidney British Columbia. The original owner told me that he never had to put a reef in when sailing but as far as he could tell the reef points looked okay for his boat when he set them up at the dock. His boat did not have an enclosure and he may have had a longer pig tail on his topping lift. What worked on his boat may not have worked on mine for reasons other than the block placement.

Tom S
I have not bent on the Sobstad sail since about 2009 so I don’t remember what the performance was like. I do remember that when I first bent on the Botts sail that I could flatten it out like a knife blade. Over time it stretched so I could not flatten it as much. The Uk sail will also flatten out nicely. I don’t specifically recall the bigger roach adding to weather helm but flattening the sail does reduce weather helm. With the UK sail I have started to use a cunningham. Hardening it moves the draft of the sail forward and that also reduces weather helm. Between the choker and the cunningham I can reduce the power of the sail so that it feels the same as if I have a small first reef set.

Joe V
In the P.H.R.F. system used in British Columbia folding and feathering props are given a 0 code. If a fixed 2 blade prop is installed the boat is given an extra 6 seconds per mile and a three blade fixed gives an extra 12 seconds per mile over the feathering prop rating.

Lloyd H
I am not an expert on racing rules and handicap systems so be cautious when reading what I have to say on the subject.

If you go to the INA home page and use “Racing” as a search term you will find a link to the Nonsuch Racing rules. The rules provide in part:

“The intent of these rules is not to exclude boats, but to provide sufficient uniformity between boats that skippers and crews will perceive competition between yachts to be a fair test of sailing skills. Any owner whose yacht does not meet the rules, but who feels that his yacht’s performance has not been significantly improved, may request a ruling from the Rules Committee.”

In theory Nonsuches of the same size race against each other, boat for boat, however if a 26 is to race a 30 a handicap rating system can be used. When other types of boats entire the mix, such was in club racing, a handicap system is used. The most common handicap racing system used in North America is the Performance Handicap Racing Fleet system (PHRF). The system was designed with sloops in mind so it has difficulty coming up with a fair rating for cat boats. The PHRF is in part a local rating system so the rating given for a boat in the Pacific North West may be different than the rating given on the Great Lakes. As an examples the range of ratings for a Nonsuch 26 are from 201 to 240 seconds a mile and for a 30, 153 to 213 seconds a mile. The PHRF system in the British Columbia region uses the formula of P (luff) x E (foot) x .59 to come up with the mainsail area. The extra .09 allows for roach. The sail area for a 26 is therefore considered to be 41’ x 20.5’ x .59 = 495.89 sq. ft. as opposed to the 420 sq. ft. given in the brochure. The rules also have adjustment factors for non-standard mains, but the calculations are too complex for this discussion.

With regards to roach size the Nonsuch Racing rules use an upper LP (leech point) location and length. On a 30 the distance from the head of the sail to the upper LP is 11.8’ and on the 324, 12.6’. The length of the upper LPs are 7.9’ and 8.4’ respectively. If the sail is to have a good aerodynamic leech and be made to conform to that rule, the size of the roach is limited . If the length of the upper LP is ignored the roach can be made bigger and still have an aerodynamic shape on the leech but the sail will not be class legal for Nonsuch racing. The upper LP on my Botts sail is exactly to the class rules, I don’t have a measurement for the UK sail but I suspect it is longer than allowed in the rules. A bigger roach is not a problem for PHRF racing but an adjustment might be made to the rating. We have two 30s with slightly different rating in B.C. I understand the difference in ratings is due to differences in the sail size.

John,
the luff of your sail is 1/2’ shorter than the nonsuch standard. The upper LP is measured at 10.6’ down from the head of the sail and should measure 7’ in length. As noted above the formula used in B.C for mainsail sizers P x E x .59. With the shorter sail luff length on your sail the Racing committee may not have felt a need to make an adjustment to your rating.

Before you start moving blocks try all other available solutions to get a decent reefed sail shape.

It is a little difficult to see in the photo but it looks like the boom extension is the one designed by Murray Cressman. The extension might be illegal for Nonsuch racing rules but I don’t think it effects the speed of the boat so a Nonsuch committee should allow it. It is not an issue for PHRF racing. When I sail I generally have the topping lift slack enough that it does not change the sail shape no matter which side of the sail it hangs on.

Many sloop racers use a back stay flicker that should work for a topping lift flicker on a Nonsuch. Here is a link to a page with images of back stay flickers:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sailboat+backstay+flicker&client=safari&rls=en&sxsrf=ALiCzsbFhAbhT2GSY5XfhL45ovB4WKRt_A:1669855546132&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjz35zVmNf7AhXxIDQIHZEABqgQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1217&bih=969&dpr=1#imgrc=0UKDDlB2YXFiSM

Essential they are a fibreglass batten attached to the mast head with the batten sticking back from the mast head parallel to the water. An eye is attached to the outboard end of the batten and the topping lift would run through the eye. When the topping lift is hardened the batten will pull down. When the topping lift is eased the batted straightens and lifts the topping lift away from the sail. You will have to experiment with the strength and length of the batten and the length of the topping lift to get it to work correctly.

Mark Powers

Thanks Mark
Good point on the Cunningham. Will be easy to rig and I’ll try it. Yes the old Botts sail doesn’t flatten out well and has the draft too far aft and has a big roach. It also has much weather helm.
It will get nice and flat with either reef though. However with a reef the center of effort moves forward and I always thought weather helm goes away for this reason.

Tom

26C 28
Penetang

Mark,

Thanks for the info on the flicker. A standard sloop flicker lifts the back stay. Nonsuch the topping lift moving up to 180 + degrees opposed to a rear stay which doesn’t move at all. The fellow i bought the sail from fooled around with a flicker. The problem was that with the wishbone and topping lift twisting, the flicker couldn’t take the twist and broke off easily. Their solution was dual topping lifts mounted on either side of the sail so they didn’t interfere. My idea is to come up with a swivel to mount on the top of the mast to allow the flicker to move freely from side to side without twisting. I haven’t found anything currently existing to accomplish this (ideas welcome) and I’m thinking it will need to be fabricated.

I agree that you can slacken the topping lift under sail so it’s not a problem, however when we are racing, we are constantly adjusting the topping lift tension to control sail shape.

John,
We are straying far from the original subject of this thread. We should start a new thread or move the discussion to email. Maybe something like a quadrant for the batten to pivot on.
Mark Powers

WOW that a big change in sail area. My 26 is 420 sf for a standard and 480 f for my current sail. Most of that in the area of the top two battens.

The 30’s IMHO are under canvassed, but there are limits to improving that issue. 10-12% increase seems reasonable. Having more than 8 inches over the topping lift may lead to issues . As well it’s the increased sail area in the top 1/3 that will have the most effect and will cause you to reef earlier particularly in gusty weather.

I think as long as the reef cheek blocks are aft of the reef points on the sail by 12 inches you should be good, but there be some perfect voodoo number that I am not aware of

Like Paul a bit of extra roach is not an issue unless it get very light when you have to flip the topping lift over.

Joe

I was ticked at my rating so I went and got a roller furler and demanded the 6 second roller furler credit… the PHRIF committee complained it was not attached to the sail and I pointed out that attaching it was not part of the rule… :slight_smile: But since you can’t have a deck sweeper sail you should get a credit.

“… I think as long as the reef cheek blocks are aft of the reef points on the sail by 12 inches you should be good, but there be some perfect voodoo number that I am not aware of…”
I would really like to get a consensus on this dimension. I am still having a hard time getting the reefs to look right.

Tim in STL
White O’morn NS26U #216
Harbor Point Yacht Club
West Alton, MO

When set my reef lines are at about the 20 degrees off the plane of the boom and maybe 2 feet long…I am eye balling the angle so these are approximate measurements.

Tim,
Sorry to have to say it but I think you are looking for something that does not exist. There will not be a consensus, largely due to the fact that there is no consensus amounts sailmakers on the size of the roach and the placement of the reef points. A larger roach has the effect of moving the clew reef points further back. How full the sail is cut and where the maximum draft is placed will also have an impact on the reefed sail shape.

The manual for the 26Ultra, at slide 41.1, has recommended reef points and leach (leech?) cut dimensions on the sail plan, . I can’t find anything in the Classic Manual. The 30 Ultra manual vol 2 at slide 41.1 also has recommended reef points and leach cut dimensions. I have not searched the manuals for the other models (sorry). For the 26 it seems to me the manual has switched the reef clew and tack cringle dimensions around. In the 26 manual the clew measurement is bigger than the tack measurement. On the sails I own, the tack measurement is bigger than the clew. The manual for the 30 also shows the tack measurement as bigger than the clew. Below I will give the measurements from the 26 manual (switched to what I think it should be) and the measurements for the three sails I own. The Sobstad is the oldest sail the UK is the youngest.

First Reef Tack Clew Foot

Manual 6’ 6" 9’ ?

Sobstad 4’ 10.5" 6’ 7" 18’

Botts 6’ 8.5" 10’ 9" 17’ 1"

UK 5’ 6" 5’ 8.5" 19’ (estimate)

The second reef points also vary between the manual and the 3 sails. As you can see with the variations in the placement of the reef points and the length of the foot when the sail is reefed (distance between the tack and clew reef cringles) The distance of the clew cringle to the boom reef turning blocks will also vary. I find that the clew reef cringle on the Bott sail is further away from the turning block than on the other two sails when I have the sails shaped correctly.

Botts recommends that when you run the tack reef line that it goes through the cringle and than immediately back to the first side. So if you tie the reef line to a port side eye on the mast collar it would go through the cringle from port to starboard and then immediately be brought back to the port side to the turning block and back to the cockpit. The more common approach is to take the line from port to starboard and down to a turning block and the starboard side and back to the cockpit. With the Botts method the reef cringle is pulled down to the mast collar eye (about the same height as the full sail tack). With the standard method the cringle stacks onto of the sail slides below it with the result the reef tack is somewhat higher than the tack of the full sail. The difference depends on the number and size of the sail slides below the reef cringle. Botts also places the clew reef cringles higher up the leach than other sail makers. The purpose is to lift the heel of the boom higher off the water when the sail is reefed and the waves bigger.

Things to try to improve the reefed sail shape: (1) make sure that when the sail is reefed the tack cringle is near the mast and in line with the sail slides above it. If you use a bowline to tie the reef line to the mast collar and the eye of the bowline is big the reef cringle may pull back from the mast making sail shaping difficult, (2) experiment between the Botts method and the Standard method of running the reef tack line so see which, if either give a better shape, (3) make sure the halyard is hardened really hard before you pull in the clew reef line, (4) make sure the choker is well eased and the boom raised high with the topping lift so that when you harden the clew reef line you can get it to where you want, (5) once it is in the position you want full let off the topping lift and then harden the choker very hard, (6) check you sail shape, if it does not look good, ease the choker, harden the topping lift and and experiment with the amount you pull in the clew reef line. Try tighter and loser to see which improves the shape. If you still can’t get the shape you want try setting up the reef tack a bit higher and then play with different positions on the clew reef. With my UK sail I leave the reef tack about 6" higher than the full sail tack point and raise the boom a bit higher as well. This is not for sail shape but to lift the boom a bit higher above the enclosure.

When the choker is hardened it pushes the heel of the boom back and down. The backward motion flattens the foot and the downward motion flattens the leach. If the reef cringles are not in the correct relationship to each other you can have a situation where the foot is tight but the leach is not and it sags off to leeward or the leach tight and the foot loose. In my case the topping lift safety pig tail is set up to stop the boom from hitting the enclosure. At a certain point the length of the topping lift limits the backward movement of the boom. With the UK sail the second reef clew cringle was very far back. As I hardened the choker to flatten the sail the topping lift ran out of travel. Hardening the choker anymore started to bend the mast head backward. The top of the mast was bent back 2’ to 3’ and the sail was still hanging over the boom.

In some instances if the length of the reefed foot is too long the front arms of the boom will contact the mast before the sail is fully flattened. The solution for that is to try to pull the cringle closer to the boom turning blocks before you harden the choker.

In some instances a dacron sail may have stretched to the point that you can no longer produce a nice shape in the sail when reefed although more typically the shape will be worse without the reef. In a few rare instances the sailmaker may have got it wrong.

If you can’t get the sail shape right by yourself, try finding a more experienced/knowledgeable Nonsuch sailor to come to the boat to see if they have any ideas. If that fails get in touch with you local sail maker to see if they have any suggestions. In my case I had to bring in a friend that has way more experience and knowledge than I have. I know, just about any Nonsuch sailor meets those qualifications so I wen with the most knowledgeable and experienced sailor I know.

Hopefully I have given you some new ideas to try out.

Mark Powers

I am conflicted. I don’t know whether to say thank you or to be disappointed in you. Not one of you has corrected the error in my post of Nov 29 in this discussion thread. I will assume you did not correct me because you did not want to make me feel bad.

In that post I said the area below the lower LP should be added to the square footage of the sail. I woke up at 5L30 this morning with the realization that I was wrong. The length of the luff is measured from the tack not the lower LP line, therefore that are should be subtracted from the sail area. The Luff on the 30 is 45’ and the Lower LP is 24’ Luff x Lower Lp/2 gives 540 square feet. Less 30’ due to the upward angle of the foot of sail gives 510 square feet with another 30 to be made up in the roach.

I am not thinking the extra sail area in the quotes is reflects the square footage of the sail cloth need to make the sail and not the finished sail area.

Mark Powers

Mark -

The real issue here is that you failed to change the batteries in your alarm clock coupled with the fact that you are out in the cold, shoveling snow.

Ernie A. in Toronto

Furthermore, Mark, the very last thing that I (or the rest of us) would want is to be responsible for making you feel bad.

That said, I’d check that clock …

Ernie A. in Toronto

Mark,

I just wanted to order a new sail. Now my head hurts. So, I might as well dive in and reveal my ignorance again.

On a Nonsuch, how is the LP measured? I was assuming it is a horizontal line that goes from the mast (not the tack) to the clew. If that’s true, isn’t the area still 540 square feet? (The sum of the triangle above and below the LP line.)

Ok, I’ll hang up and listen now.

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD

Jim,

I don’t know if this helps, but here are the rules used for measuring sail plains as published at the back of the Annual Registry and in the soon-to-be-published INA Quick Guide for New Nonsuch Owners.

– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch 26U #233

(attachments)

Nonsuch Sail Dimensions.pdf (758 KB)

Bob,

Thanks for sharing this. The diagram confirms my belief that Mark’s concerns are unwarranted. As long as the LP is measured horizontally from the clew, the formula still works even for the Nonsuch sail. It shows that the 30’s sail area, excluding any roach, is 540 square feet. It doesn’t matter that the Nonsuch sail slopes up from the tack to the clew. That area of the sail is included in the formula no matter where the clew is in relation to the tack.

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD

Wrong twice?
Must have been the batteries.
Mark Powers

Don’t feel bad, Mark.

I’m still working on being right twice.

– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch 26U #233

Regarding reefing and the position of the clew: i have a block in each of reef clews. This enables the location of the reef to be in the same position as the unreefed clew vs on the top of the sail stack. Makes for a much easier reef and the force is located low where it should be.

Thor,
Sorry, I’m not sure I’m following you. Are you saying you have a block attached to the leach of the sail at reef points? (My first Nonsuch had that setup.) Or something else?

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD