Hi- Can anyone suggest replacements for the Atkins-Hoyle port-light gaskets? I understand that Atkins-Hoyle charges an inappropriately high price for them.
Thanks,
John Zinner
Polaris NS30U
Annapolis
You might want to try Hammerhead Nautical Systems in Toronto for price comparison.
Ken Dakin
Sashay NS 33 #7
Burlington ON
Thanks, Ken- Does anyone know the proper diameter for the neoprene gasket for the Atkins Hoyle port-light?
Here are the choices:
“Solid Round Neoprene Gasket
Various Sizes: ¼”, 3/8”, ½”, 5/8”, 9/16””
John Zinner
Polaris NS30U #505
Annapolis
I bought some last year and did the deck hatches on my 30. Search of other sailboat forums indicated 1/2" for A-H deck hatches. No leaks since even in heavy weather. Assume port light hatches are same but cannot confirm.
Here is a copy of correspondence with my supplier.
Bruce Flinn
PATIENCE30U399
Chester NS
Another source in the US is Hatchmasters, aka Select Plastics, in Norwalk, CT. Their main business is replacing the hatch lens, but they stock gasket material for all makes and sizes of hatches. I just had my overhead hatches refurbished and was impressed with their service. Contact them at:
219 Liberty Square
Norwalk, CT 06855
203-866-3767
Bill Spencer - LIONHEART, NS30U 352 Hyde Park, NY
I’ve successfully re-gasketed port lights using automobile window wash tubing. Go to any auto parts store. It sells for cheap. The tubing comes in several diameters. I don’t remember which diameter I used on my Nonsuch, but it was smaller than I had anticipated. You want a diameter that’s large enough to get an adequate seal but small enough to easily compress and not interfere with closing the port. The tubing fits well into the concave gasket track of the port light. I held the tubing in place using a very thin bead of adhesive caulking.
Marc
Looking for NS 22
After a couple of frustrating efforts to get the gasket material from A-H for one of my port lights I turned to a local source for rubber gasket which didn't quite fit to my satisfaction. With the unit disassembled and a period of heavy rains forecasted I felt forced to try a novel solution while awaiting the proper gasket.
What I tried was flipping over the old gasket which revealed a well formed surface to mate perfectly with the frame. After a thorough cleaning of the gasket channel and a good dose of adhesive/sealant, the old gasket dropped in place perfectly. Clamped tightly closed for 2 weeks before opening it now serves its purpose very nicely and I see no reason to replace it anytime soon.
The price of this fix is very appealing too.
I will use the same solution for the other port lights when necessary.
Ed Strazzini
MANATEE, N30U, #503
Deltaville, Va
I used the same approach as Ed Strazzini, using the old gaskets and turning them over. I used silicone calking to hold them in place. They seem to be working fine with no leaks after 2 years.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Burrard Civic Marina
Vancouver, B.C.
Do a search on EBAY . There is a dealer selling the 1/2" closed cell tubing for a $1/ ft plus shipping. I think it’s free shipping within the 50 lower states , and $13 to Canada.
Looks like the right stuff but I’m not solid on the actual diameter needed. Can anyone verify if this is proper gasket material and size?
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26C W21 099
Penetanguishene On.
I followed these posts with much interest since I was facing the same task. Good info, so I thought I should share what I did. After a couple of false starts, I ended up with “Trim-Lok X303-25 EPDM Closed Cell Sponge Rubber Seal, 0.38" Cord Stock Diameter” that I got on amazon.com. Cost was $22.18 for 25 feet (which isn’t enough to do all the ports on a 33 so I have ordered again). I did not need to do the hatches, and it looks like they require a larger gasket.
I used 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to mount it in the channel – great stuff. A 5 oz tube may be a lifetime supply. After I cleaned the channels (a short dowel or similar is helpful) I used a small bead of adhesive and masking tape to help hold it in the corners, then closed the port until the adhesive set. The cord is about the same size as the solid gasket it replaced and since it in not compressed I had to loosen the latches slightly. So far, so good.
A few observations: If your ports leak, don’t just glop in silicone sealant – the next person doing maintenance will curse you. If – correction, when – you get the adhesive on your fingers clean it off right away or the evidence will appear in your boat. Take care with the strands that you inadvertently create with adhesive: a spider on steroids couldn’t do as well.
The self-adhesive products I originally tried didn’t work well for me, but are great for curing rattles and other vibration-deadening tasks on the boat.
Nick C
Nonsuch 33 Catbird
Washington, NC