My tank has a unit that is threaded in Looking for info on a replacement Thred in one
30 ultra. #428. 1987. Have pictures of the set up. Have not removed it yet.
Thanks. Replacment. Make Model. Has to ne a screw in unit not a round plate 6 bolt one.
Thanks for any help.
These things are an interesting concept. In my 26 the tank is an irregular shape, so half is not half. Mine leaked so I make a round plate of aluminum and closed it off. We track engine hours and .42 gal per hour is conservative enough.
One less thing to break. I removed all the wires.
I agree with Thor that gauges are at best a rough indication in irregular tanks. In a 30U you have the opportunity to install an easy to use dip that will tell you a lot more closely. Just replace the vent elbow in the top of the tank with a tee. Use the side of the tee for the vent line and put a pipe plug in the top. Then you can unscrew the plug and dip the tank with a wooden stick. I keep a wrench and a few sticks on the shelf next to the tank. I have marks on the side of the tank that I can compare to the stick to tell me how much I can add / have left.
Paul M
NS30U Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
As I’ve said in the past, I’ve never had a problem using my gauge and figuring out how how much fuel I have. I should never get underway with less then a 1/2 tank anyway
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
I agree with Joe on this. “Getting to know your gauge” seems like part of “getting to know your boat” to me. While dipsticks are absolutely reliable, they are also sufficiently inconvenient that many people are not going to use them every time they go out. You need to learn where your gauge is when full, where it is when close to empty (don’t let it get there!) and remember that it changes faster as the tank gets lower. And don’t let it get below half if you can help it. More air in the tank leaves more room for condensation.
On my fuel tank. The vent fitting is welded in to the tank and is a 90 degree outlet. The fuel return is threaded in so it’s an option for a T and plug for dipping. Just like to keep the gauge functional.
Belt and suspenders. I like to be sure. 
So I’m guessing no one knows what the replacement sending unit would be. That was my question.
Also it’s interesting that on a production boat the inlets and out lets are done differently. Vent and returns.
Sorry, Steve, I’ve never seen what you described on a Nonsuch.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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[/details]Steve,
I replaced my fuel tank and at the same time replaced the fuel gauge system with this and a compatible gauge.
You order the sending unit to fit the height of the tank.
Screenshots from Defender.com
ITEM #865585
5.01 Review
$28.99
Strange things happen in boat manufacturing. I followed the inlets to make sure I wasn’t assuming function.
With the boat being in the Bahamas in a remote area. Never an easy fix. Everything needs to be brought in and correctly matched to its fitting Measure 4 times buy and bring once.
Sometimes buy next size up and down to have what you need.
I’ll pull the sender Ohm test it. Get measurements for the hole size if it’s bad. Would be nice if some one know the correct replacement
I’ll also set up the dip fitting
Is what it is.
Thanks. Ward.
Tank seams fine. That type of sender is great but would mean cutting a new hole. Not an option here.
Steve,
If you don’t know the depth of the tank, get this sender. It adjusts for tanks 4’ to 24" deep. The gauge in my previous email will work with this sender. 240 ohms empty, 33 ohms full.
Be aware that the five screw holes in the flange are not symmetrical. This is standard fuel sender screw hole layout.
Info is from Defender.com.
ITEM #882361
$43.99
You must have an oddball tank.
You’ll have to take it off, measure the thread OD and pitch, (and, to be safe, thread angle - 60, 55, or 47.5, or 29 degrees, most likely 60, but you never know) and length of the sender.
You might want to simply measure the resistance, and see if it is doing ok, or is open. Might be a wiring problem further towards the fuel display gauge?
My original flange-mounted sender would go open-circuit when the boat moved, so the fuel gauge would go F-E-F-E-F-E, and when you were close to running on fumes something like 1/2-E-1/2-E.
I just got the fuel/rpm consumption curve for the engine, measured it between fills to be sure, and use 2.0 litres per hour.
I do have a project for the summer - ultrasonic sensors mounted outside the fuel and holding tank, sending via NMEA2000 to the head unit. I did code Raymarine Seatalk-1 to NMEA2000, before I re-did the depth instrumentation. But, that’s just for fun; the running hours measurement works just fine.
JohnS NS26C still covered and waiting spring cleaning, BATH, ON.
I understand that. All of that.
The sender in my tank threads into a welded treaded fitting. No five hole bolt in.
That’s my issue. To retrofit would need to drill a new hole.
Top pic shows sender. The holes are not mounting holes. The top is sealed.
Lower picture is looking between the sender and tank. Can see the threaded fitting.
Steve,
Maybe this is some type of electronic fuel sensor, rather than the float type?
Have you tried to unscrew it?
Don
Yes. There are marks on the outer edge from the install. I stopped my efforts. Still using the boat till 4/12. Then I will do what I need to do to get it out ( stay tuned. - the fitting looks to be 3/4 in at best. Will be interesting)
Hi,
I bought one of these for the black tank and it works perfectly
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Jean
Third Base 30C
Montreal
Envoyé de mon iPhone
