I am looking at getting a full enclosure this winter?
I am concerned about how the main sheet is routed especially on a run.
Any info from owners of full enclosures would be greatly appreciated.
Peter Farley
Knot in a hurry 30u #328
Keyport NJ
I am looking at getting a full enclosure this winter?
I am concerned about how the main sheet is routed especially on a run.
Any info from owners of full enclosures would be greatly appreciated.
Peter Farley
Knot in a hurry 30u #328
Keyport NJ
On a 26 you need to keep an eye on the main sheet where it exits the enclosure. I does have the potential to jam. The few times we have sailed with the enclosure I did not install the aft two sections.
Peter,
If you search the forum using the term “enclosure” you can find a large number of threads that discuss issues with full enclosures.
There are two basic ways of dealing with the mainsheet. One is to have the enclosure hoops far enough forward that they do not interfere with the sheet. This requires the back of the enclosure be removed while sailing. The other option is to have the hoops or support struts behind the enclosure so that the sheet runs around the strut and does not contact the enclosure fabric and glass. Paul Miller on Sandpiper (30U) went with the second approach and seems to be very happy with it. I used the first approach on La Reina. The hoops are cursed so they mount further forward and the sheet only bends a small amount on a deep run. My enclosure has tow corner pieces and a central piece across the back. I have to remove the corner pieces when sailing or the sheet will rub on the corner pieces and damage them.
On most 30s the mainsheet runs though a block mounted on the rear deck to a second block mounted on the rear quarter dock line chock then up to the winch. Most of the 26s have the first block mounted on a casting attached to the back of the coaming. The sheet runs from there to a second block mounted on the starboard rear corner of the coaming and from there to the winch. I moved the blocks on La Reina so that they are the same as on the 30s. The location of the the mainsheet turning blocks has to be taken into account when designing the enclosure.
Also remember you can’t have too many windows in the top of the enclosure. You will want to be able to see the sail so that you can trim it without having to lean outside of the enclosure. Is exposure to the sun is a concern use Sunbrella flaps that you can open and close to keep the sun out but lets you see the sail as needed. Velcro strips work well for holding the flap open or closed.
Mark Powers
We have an enclosure similar to Marks but we have curved hoops not cursed ones.
We have a small window on the bimini to see the sail and to keep the sun off. This also allowed us to mount 2 small solar panels, one on each side of the window. If we do not remove the corner panels for sailing the line scuffs them.
Rob Powers
Respite #50 26C Sidney BC
Another great resource with pics:
Cursed hoops I suppose cause m’sheet hang ups where as curved hoops avoid it.
Richard Lane
Port Townsend
I have no idea what these are?
Cursed hoops I suppose cause m’sheet hang ups where as curved hoops avoid it.
Any pictures or details about these?
Peter Farley
Knot in a Hurry u30 #328
Keyport NJ
Mark mentioned my arrangement with braces on my bows so I’m attaching a photo to illustrate. On a straight downwind run the sheet bears on the struts but the are very rigid and withstand the force easily. I don’t have an enclosure (yet) but these would keep the sheet well off of the corners. The also make the bows very rigid and strong.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay B.C.
With my style bimini/dodger. it does not interfere with sheets, winches, etc at anytime.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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When you pay for Curved hoops, you will be Cursed by the costs. When you hit the Curved hoop climbing in and out of the cockpit, you will be Cursed with sore knees and head. When the north wind blows into the cockpit while you are on a deep run in January you will be Cursed with frozen nose and fingers because you were forced to remove the corner sections due to the Curved hoops. Be careful when you mock the poor typing skills and lack of proof reading of contributors to this forum, for you may be Cursed and forever followed La Reina’s transom when you sail.![]()
Joe, I suspect that while your bimini/dodger does not interfere with your mainsheet, the sheet does in fact have to curve around the straight struts when you are on a deep run.
Peter,
here is a photo of the Cursed Curved hoops.
Mark Powers
Not that I’ve notice in 17 years, Mark. I’ll try and take a photo.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
A scale drawing of the 30 with with the boom set at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat, indicates that without any bends the sheet would run almost directly over top of the winch on the starboard coaming.
Looking forward to hearing what the full size results are.
Mark
30 Nonsuch sheet run.pdf (426 KB)
Some photos of the enclosure on Respite (26C). I will send a second set to try to keep the response size down.
Mark Powers
Second batch. The curved systems of hoops used by Rob on Respite were much less money than the cursed hoops I used on La Reina. Good curses do not come cheap.
Mark Powers
I LOVE that. Where did Rob have that enclosure made? and how many boat $$$ was that. Our old enclosure (original to the boat - 1986) has rotted away and we are actively looking for a replacement.
Tim in STL
White O’morn NS26U #216
Harbor Point Yacht Club
West Alton, MO
Hi Tim,
We had the enclosure made in Sidney by Laine Bennett from Peninsula Boat Tops. He did the work in 2015 if I recall correctly. The work included the frame for the bimini and all the canvas work. His price was $6000 plus tax. The hardtop dodger was made in2009 by Tartarooga dodgers. LaReina had the enclosure first. It makes a huge difference to the time we can spend on the water by greatly increasing the room and the comfort level. I don’t think it has a significant effect on performance. I still can’t keep up with Mark.
Rob Powers
Respite 26C #50
Sidney BC
You’re right, Mark, but it doesn’t cause a problem. There is no abrasion whatsoever due to the smooth surface.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
When I was designing the enclosure for La Reina I was concerned that the sheet might put too much load on the supports so went with the curved (cursed) hoop. I have subsequently learned from you, Paul Miller and others that my concern was unfounded.
Paul Miller made an interesting discovery with his set up. Initially he put PVC pipes around the back struts to reduce wear on the sheet. Turned out the sheet started cutting through the PVC so he subsequently removed it and like you did not have any problems. If you look at the picture he attached to his response in this thread you can see the wear areas in the PVC.
Having supports right at the back of the cockpit means the sheet has to be somewhat longer in order to allow the sail to be let out 90 degrees to the boat. I suspect this might be an extra 4 to 6 feet given the double run of the sheet but I have not worked out the actual numbers on it.
Mark Powers
As I remember Mark my sheet is 110’, long enough to get the wishbone well in front of the mast.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay B.C.
The manual calls for 90 feet so 110 feet would more than make up for any extra run required.
Mark Powers