Hi All -
Does anybody know what the original finish is on the wood interior (not the floor)?
I want to do a recoat with a compatible finish. I can’t tell if it’s an oil-base, or lacquer base, polyurethane base, etc. If you’ve done a recoat successfully, what did you use?
Thanks
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
I’ve done touch ups with Minwax polyurethane satin which seems to be a very close match.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville MD
Give it a good wash, let it dry completely and then use a furniture Wax. It restores the moisture and protect against stains, mold or mildew…
Brian McCuaig. NS30u
Whitby, Ontario
“Having a yacht is reason for being more cheerful than most."
HI Bob
I am in the process of refinishing interior of my 1983 26C. I have owned her since 2001. The original finish has been elusive to match, it seems to be a rubbed oil finish, and I have had some dark and blemished spots (isolated) in the plywood veneered bulkheads, especially in the head, and on handrails around galley counter, etc. This has been an ongoing puzzle and my attempts to restore on a ‘patching’ basis have not been satisfactory.
This year I started to finally remove the original finish to bare wood, carefully with heat and a sharp, shaped ss scraper. I have started to refinish a limited area to test recommendations of a trusted source whose results I liked. I am very happy with my results on the wooded teak-faced head door, so far. My formula is:
This colour is almost identical to the original oil finish. It will be easy to maintain with the Goldspar Satin varnish topcoat. The Cetol provides a subtle tint that helps to even the overall background.
Hoping this might be helpful to some people. I am only part way through this project which includes replacing the cabin sole. Will report back in with photos.
Cheers,
Greg Silver
Misty Cat, 26C #121
St. Peter’s, Cape Breton
Depending on the degree of stain… peroxide, teeth whiteners, household bleach are somewhat easier to work with but will require multiple applications. I used them on the floors as that surface is very fragile.
Oxalic acid is a last resort. It is commonly found in teak cleaner and Drano. Strong stuff and more difficult to control but sometimes the only solution.
Of course I may be wrong but I believe the usual “original” finish from the factory for most of these teak wood veneer panels, like in and outside the head, was no finish. The plywood panels were cut and installed as they were. On my 26C, Cetol was used around the galley and around the companionway and companionway stairs. All other wood surfaces (those not painted white) seem to have no finish (other than a bit of oil that I suspect was applied later). At least this is how we did it at CS Yachts back in the 80s.
Maybe some new owners specified a finish on the teak in which case I suspect the factory would apply this before the cabinets were installed.
Yes rubbing on some teak oil is a good idea every few years. Where hands and people with sunscreen on rub against the teak, and where the panels got wet, they will change colour. Soapy water and a rag gets off dirt and a lot of the old oil with it. Doing a small spot is bad, you have to do the entire panel or a “clean spot” will show.
There are different kinds of Teak Oil apparently. The stuff I bought last year, “Minwax Teak Oil”, is more like varnish. It soaks in and then hardens. It smells like paint. Luckily I used it only on the cockpit table. In Minwax’s defense it does say on the can to wipe off the excess after letting “two coats soak for no longer than 30 minutes total”, and I waited too long and it hardened so the teak now looks like it’s been varnished rather than oiled. The teak oil I had before only soaked in but never hardened and it smelled very different, like teak oil.
Tom
26C #28
Penetang
Are you saying no finish at all on bare teak plywood from the factory!!??
Yes. The sheets arrived and went to the wood shop. Parts were cut, cabinets were built, installed, deck was slapped on, and away. So other than what was on the teak veneer plywood when it got there, no finish.
I’m talking about the cabinets and bulkheads. The floors were finished with some kind of coating but before it was installed.
CS was cranking out several boats a week back then and it was an assembly line designed to produce boats as efficiently as possible.
Tom
It must have been pre-finished. Bare wood plywood would be extremely easily damaged just by handling. I used to seal my hardwood plywood before it was even marked out never mind cut out. The veneer is too thin to risk needing to sand out marks.