We have the mast out as well- replacing wiring and rebolting the splice at center of mast - there were 20 -30 different holes drilled there-unfortunately almost all of the bolts had sheared off-only 2 were still keeping it connected.
The main halyard is being replaced due to fray and black color where it must have been rubbing on something in the mast...also replacing the cables and fittings for the wishbone attachments to mast. Also replacing lenses on lights and installing a “fuzzywig” up at top for lighting protection.
The yard replaced all bolts in hull fitting connection for the mast. That had to be pulled out with the mast because they couldn’t separate it! The boat was literally lifting out of the water as they were pulling on the mast with all the connections removed. There had been water penetration in the deck (which is also being repaired!). I have pictures if I can figure out how to post!
In any event- not that I want to spend more money, but want to make sure (while the mast is pulled) that we don’t think of something we should have done while it was out after the fact...
Thoughts? What types of mast improvements/repairs have you all done?
Glad to see you're making progress, Eautha. You mentioned a "splice" not a mast joint. Can you explain that?? Also, I'm not impressed by a yard that couldn't remove the mast from the shoe while in the boat.
It was the joint in the middle of the mast...I mis-spoke
Yeah- it was weird, the yard works on a lot of Nonsuch, so I would think they are familiar with how the mast is removed... but I watched how much trouble it gave them, it was really frozen in place.
From the top (from a guy who spent a small fortune on his mast1.5 yrs ago)
This may be overkill, I didn’t get it ALL done, but yes to most of it.
Halyard Sheaves, turning blocks on mast - check for play, smooth operation, lube at least, replace/rework as needed.top and bottom, same for choker blocks. New halyard as needed.
Ensure mast head is well attached.
Windex Install, any wind instrument check/renew
Topping lift replacement
Inspect all padeye bolts and replace if in doubt (not a lot of fun drilling them out)
Rewire electrical if in doubt (lights, light fittings, too)
Mast joint: new bolts in all the holes with threaded backing, rivets in all the blind holes, through bolts (Mike Quill) for 3/4 special throughbolts. Inspect for cracks.
check mast track for loose fasteners / bent rails, redo as needed. Strong/Tides track if you are feeling spendy
Renew boom hangers and padeyes on boom - Garhauer can make you much better padeyes than stock for $40 each.
Check boom welded brackets if early style - strip, blast, grind out and reweld as needed, re-anodize
Verify/rework boom mainsheet attachment and topping lift attachment if needed
Verify attachment and repair as needed for mast reefing block bracket just above deck
New mastboot (Mike Quill) need to put on while mast is out or cut it to get it around the mast.(Uggh), new super large clamps to seal boot
Review and replace as needed mast wedges or use Spartite epoxy system.
Inspect mast retention pin hole near deck for elongation, cracking, (if there is one). don’t use this pin method to restrain mast - it’s at the highest stress point.
Ensure all plywood/glass bulkheads boxing mast in hull are in good shape, no delamination, no water damage, repair as needed.
Get into chain locker while mast is out, do any bow deck fitting/cleat/stanchion/pulpit/windlass work with mast out / it’s near impossible to access with mast back in.
Check base under mast for water damage, soft spots, repair with fiberglass as needed. Redo set screw bolts in mast base as needed, ensure there’s a proper drainage path from base, ensure mast bottom end is clean, well installed and with drain hole (my mast had 3’ of water in it)
ensure mast has appropriate retention strap to boat to prevent lifting in upset. (and install it when mast goes back in)
Many recommend 4Gauge or heavier (eg 2 Gauge) lightening grounding wire bolted to mast and to keel bolts
I’m asking, because on my new to me 26C, I’m trying to find out where some leaks are, and I note my mast base is always damp (lots of rain here, all the time this year), damp where the aluminum mast tube hits the base casting, and out of the drain hole to the bilge.
So, my question to me is, is my mast dampness because of leaks in the deck, or that water is somehow getting down the aluminum tube, or around the deck boot, or…
My 33 had problems with the aluminum deck ring that was missed by surveyor, boat yard and rigger. In the course of 30 years the bolts securing the ring to the deck caused the bolt holes in the aluminum deck ring to corrode. The bolt heads were recessed into the ring by 1/2 of the thickness of the bolt head. Additionally there was no 5200 adhesive sealant bonding the ring to the deck. The result was water leaking in at the deck ring with water accumulating in and around the mast step ring.
The deck ring was able to move about 3/16" in all directions.
The deck ring was repaired by boring the holes oversize and inserting specially fabricated flanged bushings. The holes in the deck were filled with thickened epoxy and re-drilled. The deck ring was re-installed with 5200 between it and the deck and with new bolts.
I have worked on my mast. Most recently I replaced the hardwood wedges with a nylon set from Mike Quill. I shaped them to fit tightly then numbered them like a clock for ease of installation in the spring. Previously the hardwood wedges were drying and shrinking during the season. This usually became apparent while soloing in strong winds. The mast would shift slightly in it’s mount creating an unnerving noise.
I too purchased the nylon set several years ago but as yet have not used them.
For the winter I store the wooden wedges in a 50/50 mixture of turpentine and boiled linseed oil and they stay full size all year.
Another trick I learned from Bill Spencer (I think) is to make plastic strips from margarine tubs about one inch wide and long enough, folded into a V shape, to straddle the sides of the keel casting that receives the mast. These little plastic ‘tents’ act as more wedges, for the heel of the mast, and help prevent the unnerving clunk caused by a shifting mast.
My mast shoe has a “Jump pin” (works beautifully), a hold-down cable with a turnbuckle (essential) and 4 bolts with locknuts. I have old but perfectly good wooden wedges at the mast collar. They simply “fit in”, no hammering needed.
The mast does not clunk or move at all. It should not budge in the heaviest of weather, as far as I’m concerned. If it does,there is a serious problem that needs to be fully rectified and quickly.
