Ho folks, I have purchased a windlass in a box from Genco Marine, (going out of retail business) for a pretty good deal I think @ $1,700 cdn.
Now comes the hard part, did I buy the wrong one? a vertical instead of a horizontal windlass? (vertical has motor shaft up and down with chain wheel horizontal flat to the deck)
My NS30U has about 5" of coping plus the height of a roller. the manual suggests the rode must be horizontal, perpendicular to the deck. If was to achieve this I would be out of my chain locker. do I need a block of wood to raise this windlass or should I attempt to take back and get a horizontal style?
Any and all comments and pictures of previous windlass installs would be very very appreciated.
Here’s my just installed Maxwell HRC8. Big challenge to remove the old Maxwell V 900 especially with the mast still in place. New one works great and includes a remote wireless controller.
Feel free to contact me for the details. Whole story and more pix will be furnished to the INA UPDATE for publication soon, or soon as I get everything else done.
Terry,
My read of the install manual indicates it is not necessary for the chain to run parallel to the deck. The rode must come off of the bow roller in a straight line to the gypsy and must be in line with the gypsy wheel., when you look at the gypsy from the side. It is likely you will need a plinth tha is angled so it rises going forward so the gypsy is at the correct angle. This is set out at page 17 of the manual. The third image shows an incorrect install but if you look closely you can in that set up the chain would enter the gypsy at angle. If the windlass was tilted up at the front the chain would enter in a straight line.
Just another setup with Lewmar Pro 1000.
I replaced the old hawse hole with a deck plate to facilitate installation with the mast in. I still had the old CQR in the first two. The last shows the 35 lb. Mantus.
Ok, gosh darn, looks like in need a 3” to 4” tall plinth. For this particular windlass. Trick is finding a piece of teak 10”x12”x”4” to fashion a plinth.
Should have bought a horizontal windlass as shown in Ed and Joe’s pics.
I’ll let you know how I make out.
Thanks for the input guys.
Hi,
I am making a 1 1/2” deep teak plate for my new Lewmar Pro 1000. I went with horizontal to get some height to the top of the gypsy.
I was going to use Star Board but feared it would too easily “slide” on its fittings. I purchased a teak cutting board for about $100. It is laid up of plantation teak so colour varies and was advertised to be water resistant. Adhesive may be epoxy or waterproof glue.
I am currently “shaping” the bottom to a tight fit on to the curved the deck surface. There was enough in the piece I bought to also make bases for my cabin-top clutches and deck organizers and a cutting board to span the sink in the galley!
I will be finishing these with epoxy and varnish. Image attached.
Gary has a point. Or, consider building up some layers of 3/4" marine ply, using epoxy as a glue. Of course, an old hand like you will lay each layer at 90 degrees to each other. This will produce a bullet-proof “piece of wood” way stronger than a single chunk of teak. You could paint it white or brown or whatever and it’ll last a lifetime.
Terry,
you won’t need teak that thick. Just thick enough to give you a good angle on the run from the bow roller. I am in the process of helping a friend install a Maxwell RC8 vertical windlass on his C&C 34. It will be mounted below the deck in the anchor locker on a custom made shelf. We had to use an 8 degree angle on the shelf to get a fair (straight) run from the anchor roller to the gypsy.
If you are concerned, contact Maxwell and confirm/clarify their instructions.
If you go with 3" of teak you may find you need longer studs in the windlass to pass through the teak and the deck (1" to 1 1/2" thick) and a backer plate under the deck and take the nuts. I don’t remember how long the factory studs are.
It’s about timing Ernie and thanks Mark that sounds like the solution needed. I was also plannng to mount a dedicated battery somewhere in the the bow lockers,
April 23 is drop in @ NYC.
I have teak coping, handrails, cabin and cockpit teak to reassemble after finishing with Epifanes, all bollards and cleats and anchors powder coated. Removal of Rennai propane hwt and replacing with a kuuma 6 gal engine and sp hwt. Replace small cylinder bbq with Sea-b-que. Relocated my Raymarine L760 and mounted on cockpit wall behind the control locker (tight fit) Install of usb charger in Contols panel in starboard lazerette, new courtesy light mounded in drain hole sb cockpit, new halyard winch switch block location on vacated helm station pipe ( I relocated because you couldn’t see the person diagonally in the cockpit because of nav tub). New detachable cabinets mounted on existing seat in shower ( as we don’t use the shower ) but changed shower head and remounted adjacent to cabinets. The occasional reassembly of tarp frame after the winds we just had.
Did I mention the windlass?
When I replaced an ancient windlass three seasons ago with a new Lewmar, the yard built a 3/4” platform of structural fiberglass, secured to the deck with epoxy, and backed beneath the deck with a 1/2” fiberglass pad. It’s very solid. As much as we love teak, it is not dimensionally stable, and will degrade over time.
