I recently put a new engine in our N33, under power the boat turns to the starboard when you take your hands off the wheel.
The mechanic said our boat has a shaft that comes out to the boat at an angle and therefore it will naturally pull. Is this the case and does everyone N33 have a tendency to
drift right when the wheel is let go under power?
Don’t have firsthand knowledge of the shaft configuration on the 33, but yes on my 22 the shaft strut is offset to allow the shaft to be pulled without lowering the rudder. That does induce a tendency for the boat to steer to starboard, plus the natural prop walk in forward gear. Without a hand on the wheel she will do circles, but the effort to steer her straight is minimal. The excessive effort described by Gary suggests that the shaft may be offset beyond original specification, especially if the shaft was removed or repositioned as a process of replacing the engine. If no other apparent reason for the problem, perhaps a diver could inspect for abnormalities with the shaft strut. I suspect the original problem with mine was due to a strap being under the shaft when it was lifted, thereby forcing the strut over and bending the bolts that secure it to the hull. As viewed from behind, it was evident that the shaft was too far offset to starboard, it needs only enough clearance to slide by the rudder with the prop removed.
I have a new Beta35 motor with a 17" Kiwi Prop set at 22 degree blade angle.
Under power the boat turns when hands are off of the wheel. I think it is because the motor, transmission and propeller shaft are installed angled from the centerline of the N33.
I use the autopilot a lot so it is not much of an issue for me.
To the best of my knowledge, all of the Nonsuchs with shaft drives have them angled off the centerline, so yes this induces a tendency to turn under power that requires active steering to resist. It’s not much different from weather helm under sail.
However, the effort required to steer the boat straight shouldn’t be so excessive as to be exhausting for the person at the helm. If that’s the case, then I’d say something unusual’s going on.
I know that telling you there’s a problem without offering a solution isn’t much help and I’m sorry, but it’s outside my experience. If it isn’t bent struts or shaft rotation, could it be that your feathering prop needs to be set at different blade angles for the new engine? Not offering special knowledge, just thinking out loud about avenues I’d explore based on my own limited knowledge.
Thank you everyone for your input, much appreciated…there being a lot of similarities in responses has put my mind at ease and given me a direction to go.
Happy Sailing,
I installed a new Beta 20hp in my 26 and afterwards found that under power it pulled much harder to starboard than it did with the original 13 hp Westerbeke. The new engine and transmission moved the prop further back and I though that might be the cause however a subsequent engine alignment significantly reduced to pull. After the realignment it pulled about the same as the Westerbeke.
Mark,
How do you like the Beta? Is it as easy to service as it looks? I have a NS26 with a Westerbeke 21 with a hidden leak in the fresh water cooling system somewhere, so I’m debating about replacing it with a Beta 18.
Howard Wright
NS 26 “Merrythought”
Friday Harbor, WA
We put a Beta 20 in our 26C and I have been very happy with the change. Not cheap. We changed everything from the fresh water intake to the outlet on the stern including the engine mounts. We would do it again.
We had a westersere 21 with unknown hours some leaks and a severe exhaust leak at the manifolds. I just could not see putting a lot of money into that engine. Aside from service issues and the price of parts I had no issue with the westerbeke.
Yes service is as easy as it looks. they also provided a sheet with a list of common parts from Beta, Kubota and Lordco.
I agree with everything Rob said in his response. In addition the 20 Beta is about 60 lbs lighter than the Westerbeke 13 and about 140 lbs less than the Westerbeke 21. The Westerbeke 21 might be marginally quieter than the Beta.
The raw water impeller on the Beta is at the front not buried around the side. Dip stick and oil filters up front. The Beta has a built in oil extractor pump that makes oil changes a breeze. With a bit of a reach I can check the transmission fluid level on the Beta without tools and without climbing down the back lockers. The Westerbeke were self bleeding for the injectors. The Beta requires you bleed the injectors manually.