On my Westerbeke 27A engine, there is drain hose attached to the
bottom of the oil pan/sump... one would figure that this would make
for a simplified oil change. When winterizing CAKEWALK this winter, I
attempted to use this drain hose, i.e. I removed the "loose" end from
the holder/mount (which is above the height of the oil pan) and then
removed the threaded cap from the end of the tube. I placed the now
open end into a collection container and into a position lower than
the oil sump, and all I got was a few drops of oil... then nothing. I
had the oil-fill cap open so a 'vacuum' wouldn't occur... but nothing
came out.
Is any one familiar with this set-up? What step did I miss?
I thought there may be some sort of valve/switch at the connection to
the oil-sump, but the only thing there is a washer and the plug with
the attached hose...
Is it possible that the hose is just clogged and I should try to snake
it out (or replace it)? - I would do this when I do the next oil
change by removing the tube from the oil sump first so as not to force
any contaminants back up into the oil sump.
When the drain hose didn't function I did the oil change with a manual
extractor - which was worked fine.
Thank you,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III 30U 430 1987
NY, NY
Hi,
Was your oil HOT? I've found it needs to be real warm and you need a hand pump in the line to suck it out, Jabsco makes a nice one. It's very easy to make a heck of a mess. I've abandoned that system after some years as I bought a 5 gallon 12v electric motor type with an intake hose that goes down the tube for the dipstick. Pretty much all enclosed. Still needs to be hot but no mess. Much easier and no need to disturb that fragile looking bottom hose.
Bob Hindle
PipeDream NSC 230
My Universal M35V also has a drain hose that does not drain when opened and
lowered -- but I insert my thin extractor tube into the drain hose and use
the vacuum-type extractor (Oil Buoy) and the oil comes out just fine -- just
as glad it does not drain by gravity, since there will come a day when the
hose is not properly fastened and closed, and that would be interesting...
I assume you ran the engine to warm up the oil - even if not there should
have been some oil come out, also that you checked for a shut off along the
tube.
I have the same set up on my W33 but the tube was not long enough to reach
the container when placed low enough in the bilge for gravity to work. I
ended up using my old method of syphoning with a vacuum pump - left the tube
attached and inserted the small pump tube into it. Could have used the
dipstick hole as I assume you did.
Maybe you could insert a snake slowly to check for blockages - once freed
the oil should flush whatever was blocking the tube?
I recall a posting suggesting that the tube (probably original) be replaced
as a failure could be costly and messy. On my 'to do' list.
Hello All,
I do not know why your oil did not drain out. Kinked tube maybe? Try
suction?
I have the same 'drain tube' on 30U 353, 1986, NANABOZHO, which I
have had since new. I bought an adapter, one end of which screws onto the
fitting on the end of the tube, the other end screws into the tubing from a
little manual pump that I use to pump the oil out of the sump and into a
convenient container. This gets ALL the oil out. I tried the gravity method.
But that was difficult and messy. Laterally, the little pump has become old
and leaky, so I reverted to 'a little tube down the dipstick hole'. This
works but is slow and only gets MOST of the oil out. I think the definitive
answer is one of the patented no mess oil extractors, like the once upon a
time "White Glove Oil Changer" on the end of the sump drainage tube. That
little tube has lasted all these years. I dread the day it fails, leaks,
and/or has to be replaced. How on earth could this be done without lifting
the engine?
Doug.
Douglas Y. Caldwell, Toronto, Canada
Nonsuch 30U #353, 1986, NANABOZHO
Monk 36 Trawler, #187, 1998, CLOSE TO HOME (Currently for sale)
I have the Westerbeke 21 with the same hose. It came with a brass cap. I replaced it with a small brass drain cock.
Now, while i run the engine to warm the oil, I run the hose under the cross braces and add a small extension to the hose
to reach the jug that I now have in the bilge. Then turn off engine and open valve.
To capture any spill, I use pamper diapers under the oil filter and any likely
leak joints.
I prefer using the hose over suction method. I believe I get a better and cleaner oil change this way.
Your hose is no doubt plugged from sediment that has accumulated in the lowest part of the oil pan which is where the hose is connected.
That hose is attached to a banjo bolt on the bottom of the sump. Either connect it directly to a manual or electric device to evacuate the oil by pumping. I don’t believe it can be drained by enlisting the laws of gravity. I connected mine to a used electric pump wired into the boat and now it is literally a 5 minute operation. Outside of a little bit of oil on my fingers from removing and re-installing the cap on the pump’s discharge hose it is without mess. In addition, now that I have a remote oil filter kit installed, the whole process is done within 10 minutes and nothing to clean up. Also, when I bought the boat I installed a cleanout in the cockpit sole directly over the valve cover cap enabling easy filling with a long funnel.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221 (1984)
Sea Harbour Yacht Club
Oriental, NC
I agree with John about the hose being plugged and it is most likely caused by lack of use.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221 (1984)
Sea Harbour Yacht Club
Oriental, NC
Yes, I ran the engine to warm the oil prior to attempting to use the
drain hose.
When I go to change the oil next time, I will try the suggested pump/
suction set-ups on the hose to see if that works. If not, then I will
endeavor to detach the hose (after draining the oil!) from the sump to
see if has clogged/collapsed... If I need to remove it, I will
probably just replace it with a new hose from Westerbeke... why take a
chance, as this one is 25 years old!
Regards,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III 30U 430 1987
NY, NY
You will have to remove the banjo bolt and the two brass washers to remove the hose. I suspect that the hose has a crimped connection. I believe the bolt has a 17 MM (11/16) head. Do not use a hose clamp if you replace the hose. Have a shop that does hydraulic hose work make a new hose with a crimped connection.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221 (1984)
Sea Harbour Yacht Club
Oriental, NC
Before you try changing the hose I would suggest running a piece of
flexible plastic tubing through the hose. Check the length against the
hose so you will be able to tell when it has entered the oil pan. This
should let you know if the oil drain hose is kinked and it may also
clear any blockage. Oil will drain through the hose on La Reina with
gravity alone as long as the oil is warm. I have drained the oil into
a shallow pan placed in front of the engine but I think I will be
trying the hose extension to containers in the bilge. Sounds like
there will be less risk of a spill. I have a vacuum pump made by Pela,
but the plastic line that fits into the drain hose or the dipstick
hole is so small it takes a very long time to suck the oil out. The
gravity drain method has proven to be much faster.
Mark Powers & Nesta Davies
La Reina 26C (Westerbeke 13)
Burrard Civic Marina
Vancouver, B.C.