Shore Power Options

Questions & Answers
9

The sequence I was taught for disconnecting shore power is as follows:
With the boat plugged in and drawing power:

  1. Turn off the main breaker on the 110 (220 for those in other parts of the world) boat panel;
  2. Go ashore and turn off the breaker on the pedestal;
  3. Unplug the cable from the pedestal.
  4. Ensure the end can’t fall into the water (saves the cord from water damage)
  5. Go back aboard and unplug the cable from the boat.
  6. Coil the cord and stow in a safe location.

For plugging in:

  1. Pull out the cord and inspect the ends for signs of burning/arcing. If signs of arcing address the issue;
  2. Make sure the main 110 breaker on the boat is turned off;
  3. Plug the cord into the boat inlet socket (this ensures the end of the cord can’t fall in the water (in Siva’s case make sure the cable end is secured inside the cabin;
  4. Run the cable to the shore side pedestal;
  5. Ensure the pedestal breaker is turned off and the socket is in good condition;
  6. Plug in the cable to the pedestal then turn on the breaker;
  7. Return to the boat and turn on the main 110 breaker.

The short version is when plugging in, boat first, shore last. When unplugging, shore first, boat last.

Full disclosure, I often forget to turn off the shore side breaker before plugging in or unplugging.

Regular inspections of the cord and sockets are a good idea. Most pedestals do not have a method of providing strain relief for the cable and the sockets gradually wear leading to arcing, indicated by black marks around the female terminals. Black marks on the prongs on the male end of the cord are also an indication of a lose fit at the shore side socket. If the pedestal socket looks bad notify the marina office. Inspecting the cable and sockets is part of the process when I conduct courtesy Coast Guard Vessel safety inspections.

Have a polarity tester and use it. If my boat panel shows reverse polarity I take the tester ashore and check the pedestal.

Mark Powers