My starter motor has been intermittently failing to engage. The solenoid is OK, but the motor whirs without engaging. In my part of the world, getting a service call is next to impossible so that while this might be a service repair, I looked into replacement for this 30+ year old unit.
The cost of a new starter from Westerbeke is over $1500, while I saw several OEM units on eBay from highly rated suppliers for just $325. I took the eBay route and will post later how this worked out.
Don Ringsmuth
Selkie 30U 425
East Hampton, NY
Hi Don - I’d recommend taking yours out and having it rebuilt. That might cost $150 or so. There are specialty alternator/starter shops that will do that. Looks like a place called Jamco is not far from you.
Good luck -
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Magothy River, Maryland
Don,
With my starter, I believe the solenoid moves a lever which engages the starter gear with the engine. The solenoid also closes a set of contacts to energize the starter. If the motor runs without engaging it suggests to me that the motor is fine, and that the solenoid is closing the motor contacts, but that lever is not engaging. I’m not sure what the mode of failure would be but perhaps it’s a mechanical problem with the engagement lever? I’m not much of an authority on starters so I’d be interested in thoughts from others with more experience.
Bill Kroes
“Canatara”
NS36-#24
Sarnia, Ontario
The starter failing to engage could also indicate a low battery. Enough power to turn the motor but not fast enough inertia to activate the Bendix drive.
Mike Jennings.
NS005 Chancy.
Port Moody. BC.
Now that we are talking about power supply to the solenoid/starter as a potential culprit, here is my experience.
Ever since we bought the boat the starter had a difficult time unless we had the battery selector switch on ‘both’ or ‘house’. I replaced the starter battery but with no improvement. I removed the starter and took it to a place that examined/tested the starter. The specialty shop found nothing wrong with the starter but replaced the brushes for good measure. New brushes didn’t help.
Following advice from my good friend Herb Huber (Mistoffelees), I removed and replace all the starter related cables (1986 vintage). And while at it I increased the cable size to 2 gauge from 4 gauge. The starter now spins our W-27 as if it was an electric drill. On the starter battery alone!
I am not suggesting your cables are the problem, but if the symptoms look like they are pointing to power available at the solenoid/starter you might consider giving some thought to the cables.
…..Ed
Ed and Marlene Brost
SaSeaCat, NS30322
Sarnia Yacht Club
519 312-8650
At times, my starter used to take a while to engage. Since I installed a 100 W solar panel on my bimini the change has been nothing short of phenomenal. Even on just Battery 1 (my house bank, being two 12Volt batteries) the engine generally starts within 2-5 seconds after the glow plug button has been engaged (usually for 10 seconds unless it is cold outside, in which case longer). I will, very occasionally use both battery banks when starting the engine if it is cold or the voltage is down. This jives with an earlier comment by Mike Jennings that battery power may be the culprit.
James W. Stanely
“Annie 11”–Nonsuch 30U 1987 (no. 378)
Chester, Nova Scotia
Low voltage will cause the solenoid plunger to not engage fully causing arcing damaging the starter.
I would check the voltage drop in the start circuits. Any drop less than ..4 is cause for concern. Once you have done this you will know what components are causing the issue.
As well you should have a fuse in this circuit, Blue Seas sells them…
https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A
My 30U layout has the battery banks and the starter motor to starboard and the rotary battery switch to port of the companionway. This resulted in about 14’ of #4 cable from the starting battery to the starter motor.
When I rewired I decommissioned the battery switch and ran the positive starter lead directly (through a fuse) to the starter motor reducing the length of cable to about four feet. The starter is infinitely happier.
In its current configuration there is no way any draw except the starter motor can be drawn from the starting battery and this insures that the starting battery is always fully charged.
I’m not a fan of leaving it to some old guy (like me) to remember to have the switch in the right orientation all the time with serious consequences for forgetting. I’m not alone in this thought. Rod Collins (marine how to) has written extensively about it.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
Paul,
Jeff Cote of Pacific Yacht Systems recommends one addition to your starter wiring scheme. That is a battery switch in the positive line. That way, on the occasion that the starter sticks running, you can disconnect power thus stopping the starter.
Ward Woodruff
N33 #8 Margery
Niantic Bay, CT
Thanks Ward, that makes sense and it’s a something I hadn’t thought of. However I don’t really have anywhere to put that switch without making the line longer again so I guess my alternative would be to pull the fuse. I’ll look into it.
Hello All,
After 2 years of intermittent starter/solenoid performance, I’ve decided to replace the whole assembly. (as opposed to a rebuild)
Mine is for a Westerbeke 21A.
Westerbeke is listing a replacement for ~$1500 USD
I thought I’d provide some comfort in letting you know you can easily get the OEM replacement Mitsubishi parts for this “Kubota” engine on AMZ for a fraction of the cost. ($350)
Cheers,
Mike and Ashley Read
NS 26C #120 Nauti Girl
Bath, Ont.
If you are in the Kingston area
https://www.autoelectrickingston.com/about-us/ask-us/
Old school friend, does excellent work