If I go for an electric windlass, the yard is suggesting a vertical model. However, I am wondering if a horizontal model might be better for a Nonsuch. Less cutting of the deck (I think) and (I’m guessing) easier access to the motor if it ever needs attention. Is that right, or is one option just as good as the other?
Thanks,
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD
OK I will go out on a limb. I have a manual horizontal. I have to winch in about 30 to 60 feet of chain… easy peasy. No motor or wiring. And now with Grandkids with us for 2 weeks up North… even easier.
Jim, I went through the same decision making process several years ago and went with a vertical Maxwell RC10-8 capstan model. If I had to do it again, I’d probably forget the capstan. As I remember, my decision came down to which windlass style would integrate best into the existing foredeck and anchor roller layouts. I decided the vertical style would work best on our boat. Overall, I’ve been happy with that choice and with the model we installed. I did not install foot switches on the foredeck. We primarily operate the windlass with a wireless remote controller which was packaged with the windlass at the time we bought it from Defender. As a backup, I mounted a manual up/down switch just inside the companion way, high up on the starboard side. I also opted not to install a dedicated battery in the bow for the windlass and wired it back to the starting battery. Large gauge marine wire is expensive. Even online, I think we paid around $350 for the wire and connectors. Good luck.
David Young
Bay Cat, 30U #402
Traverse City / Suttons Bay, MI
Hi Jim,
For what it’s worth, we installed a Maxwell HRC10-8 with Capstan when we went through the refit on Toyger. We went with the horizontal model so the motor would be accessible from the deck. We didn’t want to risk not being able to get to the motor in the middle of the season if something went wrong and was left with having to make the decision to either do without a windlass until the end of the season or pull the mast to get to the motor. In placing the horizontal we had to make sure there was adequate room between the back of the windlass and the front of the mast. The motor is on the back side of the windlass and the cover slips off the motor from the back so clearance between the back of the windlass and the front of the mast was critical. It is a tight fit but it will fit. Also added a second hawse pipe for the 2nd anchor rode but we didn’t install foot switches as I went with the remote control unit and also have a chain counter/controller in the NavPod at the helm. We didn’t install a battery up front but went with the appropriate sized wires (cables) back to the battery bank. Hope this helps.
Jim Krzyzewski
N30U #422 Toyger
Port Ludlow WA
Thor,
I totally agree with you on the KISS. My problem is that I do not want to lose too much of the cruising season without a windlass. The guy in Scotland who refurbishes the Simpson-Lawrence windlasses will sell me the parts that he suspects I need (sprocket, chain, and seals). However, shipping will take a while and I am not sure I can take apart the existing windlass while it's still mounted to the deck. And if I have to pull the mast, I'm thinking I might have an electric windlass installed. I've only found one manual windlass being manufactured today and I have no idea of its quality.
When I had my 26C I did not have a windlass at all and did not feel I needed one. But on the 30U, with a 33# anchor and lots of chain I really do.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville, MD
Thanks David, I appreciate the advice. I'll look into the remote options available. The fewer holes drilled in the deck the better.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30u #343
Galesville, MD
Hi all (and particularly David Young), I’m unfortunately in a time crunch with return windows closing rapidly.
I’m currently installing a Maxwell windlass on my 30U #509. I’ve purchased a RC8-8 vertical as it aligns well with the old haws pipe location. Unfortunately I ran into issues with the height of the chain coming from the roller, so determined I would need to lift the windlass approx 3-5" off the deck to make sure the chain clears all deck obstructions. David, did you need to raise your windlass at all to make it work? Do you have any photos you could share? If I need to raise it too much I run into the next problem which is the mounting bolts won’t be long enough to clear thru the bottom side.
After struggling with this Rc8 I figure the HRC10-8 might work based on what Jim Krzyzewski did. Thanks a ton for those photos BTW! The HRC is a beefy windlass to be sure, so I’m worried about the motor access clearance you mention, and it just doesn’t align well with my current haws pipe, so I was thinking I could cover that hole with some wood and then put foot switches on it perhaps. The drawback here is the deck space that this will eat up. Jim, it looks like your stanchions are actually outside your deck? I haven’t seen that before and looks like it gives it some necessary room up there.
Thanks for reading this novel. I’m definitely struggling making the right call here and don’t want to cut any big holes without thinking thru the situation. I can also be reached via phone if someone with Maxwell experience is eager enough to help out.
Here’s a photo of my deck layout.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/aPb81qFEd8MYLt1H8
Matt Hidinger
Nonsense 30U #509
Seattle, WA
248-425-0003
We did this same install in 2018 and decided that the smart move was you use the existing hawse pipe as an access point and receptacle for the remote and then to cut fresh holes on the port side in line with the ideal position for the bow rollers. Like you, we added a base to bring up the gypsy to the minimum required to clear the bulwark. Pictures attached. If I recall the bolt length was not a problem. The access from the old hawse pipe area which we enlarged with a 6" Beckson deck port made it much easier (still not easy) to support the windlass from below and then access bolts, wiring studs etc. The remote hangs inside the deck port out of the weather - no foot switches needed. Can’t find a picture of the port and remote but I think you get the idea 3 seasons later and at over nights at anchor we have no regrets - works great. Usual advice about finishing the exposed edges of the fresh holes - remove filler with bent nail in a drill, thickened epoxy etc. We were able to take some of the curve out of the deck by sanding and the rest by shaping the underside of the pad. Used butyl tape to bed it, no leaks, works flawlessly. The NS30 is blessed with a tall chain locker which is apparently the main complaint of other installs for this windlass. Minimum of 12" vertical drop required not to foul
.
Jim.
C.A.T. NS30C #146
Here is a pretty lame picture of the foredeck (windlass is dressed for summer on the hard in Mexico).
Jim,
Just a thought… are you able to adjust the height of your bow rollers? My 30U rollers have two possible height positions. The higher position is probably a good 2 inches higher than the lower…
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30U 430
Jersey City, NJ
Thanks Jim for the explanation and all those photos. Super helpful. Maxwell does make an “extended deck” model to support going through thicker areas, as in this situation by adding the necessary platform that Nonsuches need. Do you recall if you got that model or the standard one? And do you remember the thickness of the platform you made? I think I’ll follow your plan exactly.
Peter, the roller is indeed adjustable and I will play with that along wtih the platform height.
Matt Hidinger
Nonsense 30U #509
Seattle, WA
