A lot of windlasses were installed post-factory. I don’t think there was a standard one. Get a good picture of your model. I’ve rebuilt 2 80’s vintage Simpson-Lawrence ones from frozen back to perfect working order for very little cost.
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
My boat neighbor who owns Fate had an electric installed a few years ago.
Not sure the yard had to pull his mast. He is a member and may see this post but will copy him anyway.
Bill Evans
I would think that yes, you’ll have to pull the mast to remove or replace the windlass unless you find a tiny person (or one with really long arms) to get to the bolts from the inside. However, there may not be a need to pull it off if you can fix it on the deck. All of the parts are accessible from above the deck on my two SL windlasses. Just make sure the power is disconnected and try not to lose the parts when the boat rocks!
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
Depending on the Windlass you may be able to install a 6” deck plate near the Windlass to access the under deck mechanism, backing plate etc without removing the mast. There are a few nonsuch applications for this on the web. My 30U has 2 anchors, no Windlass, so I will use this option.
Roger Laine
Top Cat
1987 30U SD
Prieto Marina
Mandeville, LA
I had a manual windlass SL Hi-Speed (ironic name) on Fate, my 30U. Worked well, but slow until it broke. Amazingly there is a guy in Scotland who still sells parts for that old windlass. My plan was to repair the old windlass. Unfortunately, although the mechanism appears to be accessible the windlass had to be on its side to effect the repair. (I forget the details why). That meant removing the manual windlass. With the mast still up I could remove all but one bolt.
At that point I decided to just have the yard pull the mast. It was due for an inspection anyway. And since the mast was out I decided to install an electric windlass. I chose a horizontal windlass by Maxwell specifically because the service items were all above deck.
I did not think of the deck plate solution, although that would have been another way to go and avoid pulling the mast.
Jim - thanks for this. Very interesting and helpful.
Looking like I will just have to swallow the expense of pulling the mast no matter
how I end up fixing or replacing the windlass. My first-mate has told me
that “hauling up the anchor” daily over a 7 week cruise is not in her cards.
Bruce: I believe there is some discussion about this on the INA website. I suggest you take a peak. I’ve a Simpson/Lawrence that I’ve repaired once or twice over the last 20 years.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
When I added an electric windlass to Sandpiper I installed a 6” deck plate where the old chain pipe had been. It allowed me to install the new windlass with the mast in place. Since that time I have used the access to remove the “bowsprit”, re-fasten the pulpit, and install a wash down pump. It is a very handy access to a normally inaccessible area.
….. and no I don’t worry about the deck’s integrity being compromised…..
Your “new to you” Nonsuch should have its mast pulled anyway for a proper inspection. We in the north (Corbeau is on Lake Ontario) pull our masts every winter for storage. It’s amazing what you find and a little preventative maintenance keeps these lovely old boats in good shape. Consider it part of your boat survey and as a bonus you will have access available to service the windlass. Good sailing to you.