I’m getting to an age where I may be challenged by raising the anchor on my NS26 by hand, and I’m considering installing a windlass or gypsy. The gypsy. which is manual, would be much easier to install, but I’m attracted to a windlass that I could control from the cockpit or on the bow. I’d appreciate hearing any issues people have encountered installing a windlass. Thanks,
Bill Prange
Hawkeye, NW26U, #233
Richmond Yacht Club, SF BAy
Bill;
On my 26, I don’t yet have a windlass, but as the captain wants one, I have been keeping my eyes open.
I do have rough measurements taken from inside when the mast was out (and photos) if you want. Just ask.
I have included 2 pics of a manual windlass on a 26 that I saw, (Swann Song) that I thought was nicely done.
John A. Stewart
NS26C 046 Ottawa Canada.
Thanks for the great pictures, John, very helpful
Bill Prange
Hawkeye, NW26U, #233
Richmond Yacht Club, SF BAy
Here is how my manual windlass is set. It is a Guindeau 308. Not widely available in North America. Chain drive, sealed unit. Works very well. IMHO with our 60 feet of 5/16 works well.
A couple of pix that might help in the discussion. I needed to install mine with the mast in so I replaced the old hawse pipe with a deck plate that gave me access to the underside of the deck to fasten the windlass. The access has proven helpful for other things as well plus I can use it to deploy a second anchor / line in a pinch.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
Ours is similar to Sandpiper. We have a Lewmar 700 that was installed by the previous owner. It drops the rode directly into the chain locker. There is an access port near by that holds the wash down hose. There is an up and down foot switch near the windlass and a hand switch just inside the companion way.
My brother Mark on La Reina installed something similar but probably improved in the last 2 years.
I can take pics if needed.
Rob Powers
Respite 26C #50
Sidney BC
I had to put a backing plate under the windlass so that the gypsy would engage on 90 degrees of it’s circumference. If not the chain tends to jump off the gypsy.
Check the chain angle to the anchor roller before you install the windlass.
Here’s yet another setup. Manual winch of unknown origin.
It seems like each was done to buyer spec including the different designs for the bow pulpit and second rode.
Joe
Ns26c# 156
SEA HORSE
My current setup, a Simpson Lawrence Hyspeed. I like the way both sides feed straight down into the chain locker.
It’s manual, so someday I’ll replace it, using the same hawse pipe.
John
NS30U#400
Tauranga, NZ
John
I’m sure this is a powerful device. I’m curious to know - how deep is the water where you usually anchor? and how long does this windless take to haul in the chain normally?
Also from the photo is it for two anchors, other side all rode, and the near side all chain?
Asking for a friend who has no other way to haul in the chain other than by hand but is getting older.
Tom
26C #28
Penetang
Tom, normally anchor in about 10m. The lever action works well to break the anchor loose, but is entirely dependent on arm speed…probably one half revolution for each stroke (it’s dual action). Chain and rode on starboard, rope only on port. I have two anchors at the bow, but only ever use one.
You can pull the lever out of the ratchet mechanism and place it in the slots on the drum itself, which gives you a LOT of purchase.
This is very useful information!
Bill Prange
Hawkeye, NS26U, #233
SF Bay
I had to google it after that. Interesting mechanism.
Can’t buy a new one here but Lewmar sells parts. There is an old very used one for sale here for $950!
Manual windless are rare apparently.
I see your need for a windless, I anchor in 3 or 4 meters. Anything over 6 and it gets hard to lift the chain and anchor.
Tom