I was looking at the placement of the cheek block on the starboard side of the mast - the angle of the line to the forward choke block on the boom entails a lot of friction on the mast. Because of this arrangement, it seems to me that there would be a lot of friction tightening the choker.
It would seem that to use the choker effectively, you would need to be on a starboard tack. Has anyone come up with more efficient rig?
It looks like I’m not able to download a picture, as I would like to describe the situation more clearly. Sorry!
Howard Wright
NS26C “Merrythought”
Friday Harbor, WA 98250
It is a little inelegant, perhaps reduced friction (and mast wear), could be achieved by saturating that stretch of the choker line with a non-sticky lubricant such as black molybdenum sulphide, filthy stuff but no need for the sail to contact it.
Richard Lane
NS26c #35 Swoose
Port Townsend
I tied a block to the original cheek block with a piece of Dyneema. Under any tension (which is all the time), it simply swings a bit forward of the mast, not touching it at all. It seems to solve this problem.
The original factory Nicro Fico choker cheek block on the mast had a curved bar welded to the upper forward edge. This gave a smooth surface for the line to pass over and avoided chafe when the wishbone was pulling the line in one direction. When the wishbone’s pulling the choker line in the other direction, there isn’t that much for it to rub against. You can see that welded on curved bar on the righthand side of the attached picture.
Unfortunately, the white plastic sheave on the original block is not meant for 30+ years in the sun. It broke up on mine, as also shown in the pic, and will for everyone else’s if it hasn’t already. When that happens, there’s no good way to replace the sheave. You have to get a new cheek block. When it happened to me, I had trouble getting an off-the-shelf block with the same hole pattern (Nicro Fico being out of business). I ended up having my rigger buy a block and drill new holes in it to match the old ones in the mast. (Since adding holes to the mast is highly discouraged, I didn’t want to drill the mast to match the block.)
With 20-20 hindsight, I believe the two best options are NOT to do that, but instead either:
Remove the old sheave entirely, and use the original cheek block as a base to fasten a block with dyneema line, as Ernie suggested a post or two above.
Remove the original block and make a template of its hole pattern. Send that pattern to Garhauer Marine and ask them to make you a cheek block with a matching hole pattern AND weld a curved bar to the top like the original. I’ve haven’t specifically tried this, but they’re generally very good about doing that kind of thing.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C #143
As Tom mentioned, Mike Quill has the block with the curved upper lip and holes to match exactly.
Several/many years ago the original sheave on mine was getting ready to fail so I replaced the block via Mike Quill. Perfect fit. The Garhauer team is excellent, but why go through the trouble of making a template or sending them the original block when Mike Quill has it already?
I noticed an improvement (easier to tighten) with the new block over the original, but that may have also been due to the failing original sheave.
If you are having difficulty adjusting the choker, make sure the other blocks in the set-up are in good shape… The one in the forward end of the boom, the block in-line between below the block in question (the one bolted to the mast) and the block affixed to the mast collar to make the 90 degree turn back to the cockpit.
My understanding is that to adjust the choker one normally would head-up (at least somewhat) to reduce the pressure on the choker line and make it easier to winch-in. Since replacing the block on the mast and the other blocks on this line, it is rare that I need to head-up to adjust the choker, unless the wind is really howling.
The wear on the choker line is as expected for a line that is used/adjusted often and under tension. This coming Spring I am looking at replacing the choker line I installed when I received the new block from Mike Quill. It is showing some signs of wear but nothing alarming, and it must be there for 5 or 6 seasons, at least, now.
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30 Ultra 430
Jersey City, NJ
They’re also are in the right order from lowest to highest price, as well as from lowest to highest beauty. Which one goes with is a matter of goals, tastes, and preferences.
Some years ago I was able to purchase a replacement block from Garhauer that fit the bolt pattern of the original block. It does not have flared cheeks but I have not noticed a significant difference in chafe on the line.
The main benefit of the blocks with flared cheeks, the Mike Quill block and the M. Cressman block was that they reduce chafe on the line. None of them really improve the lead on the port tack.
To answer your question, I am not aware of anyone that has come up with a design to improve the lead of the choker line on the port tack. With the original set up the lead is better on the starboard tack than on the starboard. The M. Cressman block improved the lead even more on the starboard tack but did not really change the lead on the port tack except by moving the block a little closer to the front of the mast.
I am not aware of anyone doing this but a block on the front of the mast on a swivel or mounted with a pad eye and shackle would give a fair lead on both tacks however such a design would create a number of issues. Firstly will there be enough clearance between the block on the boom and the new block on the mast when the choker is hardened to allow you to fully flatten the sail? I suspect there will not be. Secondly the boom may hit the block when on a run. Thirdly, as the tackle comes down from the boom it either has to wrap part way around the mast to get to the turning block at the lower mast collar or you would have to install a frame around the base of the mast so you could move the turning block forward of the mast. The frame looks something like a walker frame. They have been used on a number of the Nonsuches. I believe this was done to eliminate drilling holes in the mast. Here is a link to a Nonsuch 33 with with the frame. https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/nonsuch-33-3685642/
I have not found any pictures but I recall someone replacing the cheek block with a pad eye and then attaching a block with a shackle. This had the effect of moving the block forward which would improve the lead on the port tack slightly. The block would need to be covered with a sleeve or you would would have to glue some type of protection to the mast so the block did not bang against the mast when the choker was slack. A possible down side is that the boom bumpers are more likely to hit the block when you are on a port tack.
The solution that most people have used to solve the issue of friction on the choker line has been “a bigger hammer”. By that I mean they either use a winch to harden the choker or they add more purchase to the choker system so they can flatten the sail by hand. Originally the tackle on La Reina came with a 3:1 purchase. I changed the blocks and now have a 5:1 purchase. I can flatten the sail on my 26 without a winch in almost any conditions. Occassionally when I am beating into a strong breeze I will need to ease the sheet to take pressure off of the sail so I can pull in the choker more or I have to use the winch. The line is long enough that I can work it from the helm position. Dave on his 30, Take Five, kept the 3:1 purchase but added a doubler and Dyneema lines. The doubler gives him a total of 6:1 purchase and the Dyneema is nice and slippery . He can fully flatten his sail without the assistance of a winch. The “bigger hammer” approach is simpler, cheaper and probably just as effective as redesigning the the blocks.
Remember that generally you are closed hauled or at least on a close reach when you are putting a lot of pressure on the choker lines. As you go to a beam reach or a run you are generally easing the choker. When you are on a close reach or tighter the lead on the choker line, even on a port tack, is not too bad.
Your good idea of a padeye with a block shackled to it is similar (but more sophisticated) to my “system” of using the existing cheek block AS a padeye and simply tying a block to it with a piece of Dyneema. It’s a really short piece such that the “new” choker block is just in front of the old cheek block, barely in front of the mast. Also, this has angled all of the choker tackle slightly forward of the mast as opposed to being vertical and flat against the mast and rubbing against the mast.
As I’ve previously mentioned, I don’t have much slack in the clew lash line at the aft end of the boom and have never hauled so hard on the choker that the inside of the forward end of the boom makes contact with the “new” floating choker block.
All of that said, this works out just fine on an N22. I don’t know if the “ergonomics” of it would work on a bigger NS.
The boat Mark posted the link to on Yachtworld has the reef lines and topping lift line run through the boom.
I remember reading a thread at some point in time about this and do not remember if there were many cons to this or not.
Has anyone experience with this, or know someone who has?
My boom is on the ground in the farmyard, I plan on taking into shop to sand and paint after I add some D-rings to carry the sailcover/lazyjack lines as the clasps do not quite fit on some of the current reef line guides, which seem to be a mix and match. If the in boom running of the lines is deemed a feasable alternative while I am working on the boom I might as well remove them, fire up the spool gun and fill the holes prior to sanding and painting.
I would imagine some sort of exit blocks would work at the forward end of the boom and using the aft cheekblocks and a exit plate I would think would prevent any chafe on the aft end.
Does anyone have lines run through the boom, is there any concern about boom integrity?
Thanks for any comments.
Mark Richards
Beets Farming
NS30C, Hull#4
Dresden, Ontario
SYC,LHYC
John Newell, from Toronto (who sails MASCOUCHE NS26 #1), ran his lines through his boom. He would be the one to speak to. He is in the INA and is in the book.
Hi Mark
I don’t have the lines inside the boom but it sounds like a good idea. I hear others have added these holes and don’t have a problem.
The reason for making the inside lines, besides the fact it looks good, was to reduce the friction. The reef lines don’t have much of a friction problem because you are supposed to set them before you pull the chocker on so these I can do by hand. The problem line is the topping lift because it is so long and has so many turns.
Murray Cressman used to sell a special eye with more space that replaced the stock boom eyes that (with all three - lazy jack line and reefline and topping lift) were too small and high friction. Maybe that’s what you have. The idea behind replacing every second one was to run the topping lift through only every second larger eye that way reducing the friction.
As a 26 owner, I can’t speak to issues on larger boats, but I’ll throw in my $0.02 anyway:
If you rerig the lines to go through the boom, make sure that there are no screws or bolts anywhere on the path that might protrude into the interior and create snagging opportunities.
The big friction issues are with the many turns taken by the topping lift, and those may be best addressed by using smaller, snag resistant lines that newer rope technology has enabled, along with multi-part blocks between the boom end and the topping lift pendent.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C #143
To be sure, all bolts would be removed from boom if I went inside with the lines. Would be looking at riveting d rings on for the lazyjacks though. I had looked at Mike Quills reef line guides and may end up going that route. Have a few weeks to decide.
