I have to replace the Merriman check block on my mast. It’s broken into a few sharp pieces due to UV degradation over the years (something my dermatologist tells me is happening to me, too).
Like Val (see his separate post on getting a complete list of required hardware), I’ve been replacing blocks with Garhauer. However, I’ve got a few questions I’m hoping someone can answer before going forward with this particular one:
At least on my mast, the arrangement is subject to a bit of chafing. Mike Quill sells a custom block to avoid this. I’ve also seen an ad for a $200 Murray Cressman solution with a custom base for a half-moon block. Both are well out of my price range. Has anyone tried any other solutions that are cheaper and that have worked out well?
I’ve been thinking about just trying a padeye and a conventional block with a shackle. Any recommendations on that idea, anyone?
If I just replace the cheek block with another, does anyone know if the Garhauer bolt hole pattern matches the Merriman? If not, can anyone recommend another make that does? I don’t want to put more holes in the mast.
This last question is driven by Covid confinement cabin fever: can anyone successfully say, “Nonsuch mast choker cheek block,” ten times quickly without stumbling?
Can’t answer most of the questions. But I just replaced the upper line for the choker rig. The one that goes through the cheek block. I pondered over that chafing and decided that I do not want any more holes in the boat any place. So any changes would not have any new holes. Pretty much impossible. I decided that even though I do not like the chafing, the line is simple enough to replace every few years.
Don’t know if that was the right decision but it is one that I made. Stay tuned, might change my mind someday.
Can you not have a new sheave installed which would preserve existing holes.
Two years ago I just wanted to replace the UV damaged sheave on this choker cheek block. I was replacing all the old sheaves at the time. After taking it apart I found the boom had hit it a few times over the years and it was too damaged to bother repairing
I bought the unit from Mike Quill. It is well built, it fit well, it is better than the original setup as far as chafing the choker line, he shipped it next day.
I recall there were two sizes and he had me check the bolt hole dimensions first. I believe he also shipped thread locker and/or tefgell with it but my memory is fuzzy on this.
I know it’s pricey but if you are going to buy a new cheek block and might have to modify the bolt pattern it may be worth the price. I don’t want to drill holes in the mast.
BTW I found the Garhauer web site frustrating as they don’t print/publish the mounting hole dimensions for foot blocks, standup blocks, deck hardware. In their defense they did reply to my email but I recall we could not find a perfect match and they offered to make a custom base.
Bob, some years ago I checked with Murray Cressman about a cheek block for La Reina. At that time he advised me he did not make a swivel cheek block for the 26. Sadly, from what I have been able to learn Murray crossed the bar in 2018.
I ended up buying a Garhauer cheek block. The one they sent fit without out any modifications. The original Merriman had slight flares in the cheeks so it chafed the choker less than the Gaurhuer. The Mike Quill design has more flare than the Merriman so likely reduces the chafe even more. I have seen one 26 with the Mike Quill block. The way the boom was hung the rubber bumper on the starboard side was snagging on the edge of the block and was getting chewed up. The owner shortened the hangers to solve the problem. I don’t know how that worked out.
I, like Butch have decided to live with the chafe and changing out the choker line every few years. The standing part of the choker line is short so the cost is not too high.
I have a recollection of seeing a pad eye with a block and shackle arrangement but I can’t remember where. I never spoke with the owner so have no idea how it would work. I think if you went that route you would need to have a leather guard around the block and shackles so that it did not beat up the side of the mast when the choker was slack. The pad eye arrangement should prevent any chafing when on a starboard tack but I think there would still be chafing when you are on a port tack, but perhaps less than with the standard set up. Your pad eye will have to have a mounting plate with the holes matching the hole pattern on the current mast casting.
Here are a couple of photos of leather chafe guards I created to stop the mast from getting slapped with the choker blocks. Making the pattern was a challenge for me. Paul Miller created a simpler version.
Butch and Mark: thanks for the advice, I’m leaning in that direction at this point.
Mark: thanks for leather chafe guard design for the lower part. That’s definitely something I want to emulate, even though it wasn’t on the list before.
For all those aspiring to say, “Nonsuch mast choker cheek block,” ten times quickly, an update: I’ve since learned from reading the manual page entitled “Nonsuch 26 Wishbone Assembly at Mast,” that the correct name for the part in question is, “Nonsuch mast choker line fairlead cheek block.”
I haven’t yet decided if that makes the challenge harder or easier.
I shortened the hangers to stop the chafe… added 2 knots to my hull speed Mark… Ok seriously no issues with that change. As for chafe guards for the choker blocks, Deb simply cuts the fingers off work gloves and uses a zip tie though the middle to keep it in place. We get a few years from those cheap grey work gloves. Make sure the pins on the blocks have the rings on the outside vs facing the mast.
Mike Quill solution works well and dose not require new holes in the mast.
Two knots! I’m In. Don’t other boaters think you are being rude when you sail by and your choker shows them the middle finger? Do you recommend goat skin or cow hide gloves?
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
Guys, I have on my 33 a upside down winch handle holder with a hole cut in the bottom so it’s upside down it works great and it’s off the shelf. I will take a photo and post it. Jim m
These chafe guard ideas for the choker tackle block are all great, and have definitely put a new additional project on my list.
Meanwhile, while I was down at my boat scoping out what to do, I took a couple of telephoto shots of my mast choker line fairlead cheek block (see attached).
It turns out that a previous owner seems to have installed an interesting solution to the chafing problemat the upper end. If you look closely at the attached you can see a round tube that appears to run along the top of the fairing block. Instead of running over a metal edge, the line runs over that rounded surface.
Kinda neat, huh?
I’ll have to get up there to replace the cheek block soon. When I do, it’ll be interesting to find out how that tube’s attached.
What a bunch of good ideas. Like Paul and Mark, I have leather chafe guards around the upper and the lower block (the block that attaches to the mast) and they came with the boat. They still do the job but are a bit worse for wear and are, in no way, as slick and cool looking as these nifty West Coast jobbies. At one point, to deal with the chafe from the cheek block, I tied another block to the cheek block with a length of Dyneema such that this new block would end up 2 inches further forward of the cheek block. So, I used the old cheek block simply as an attachment point for the new block and this block rode a bit forward of the mast. I was still able to get the boom as far aft and tight to the mast as I wanted but it just felt (and looked) a bit goofy and Rube Goldberg-ish so I went back to the traditional way and, like Butch, spend $20.00 every few years for a new short piece of line with a properly done splice in it. This allows me to change the colour of this piece of line (absolutely vital).
I love the idea of the winch handle sleeve and,yup, it’ll be interesting to find out, one day, what keeps this piece of tubing up on the SOLAR WIND’S cheek block. This is, yet, another good idea.
Be well, folks and (tough as it is … cuz it IS) stay the course and be patient. 'Till the vaccine cometh …
Bob,
The chafe guard is interesting. From the back it looks like it could be rubber or plastic (most likely) from the front it looks like it could be round steel bar (not likely). It If it is plastic it could have a flap pinched between the aluminium casting and the stainless plate holding it in place.
The photos show the sheave is well past its best before date.
If you want to save money you can try replacing the sheave instead of the entire block. That will let you keep the block with the rounded side cheeks. Try to find a replacement sheave rated for the load that is listed in the manual and that has a metal bushing.
Mark Powers (self isolating with too much time on my hands)
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
I was very impressed with both Mark’s and Paul’s leather chafe guards.
When I set out to duplicate them, I hit a wall on finding leather suppliers. (They don’t seem to be considered essential in COVID-19 times). There was nothing I could see on-line that seemed right. The only supplier who replied to my email offered to sell me about 10 sq. ft. (1 sq. meter) of English bridle leather for about $300 USD.
I ended up making a provisional chafe guard using about a square foot of marine boat trailer bunk carpet. This is the stuff they sell you to line the supports so you won’t scuff up the hull when you pull your boat onto the trailer.
I figured that, given its intended use, this would probably be sufficiently UV-resistant and tough enough. I got 12 sq. ft. from MarineCarpeting.com for $25.00 USD. This was rubber-backed. If I had to do it over, I’d spend a little more to get all plastic that could be cut and sealed with a hot knife.
Pictures of the result are attached. My design cut two vertical darts on a 1 sq. ft. piece, which I reinforced with tape and stitched together. I then wrapped it around the block, and secured it with Velcro bands.
This is not yet tested (see earlier posts in this thread about needing to replace the choker line fairlead cheek block higher up the mast before I can go sailing again). We’ll see how it holds up. I’ve got enough carpet left to replace it nine times.
I got my leather in a little “variety pack” bag at a tack shop (horse gear kind). The whole bag was about $15 and I have tons left over. I used the thickest, probably ~1\16” stuff. If you wet it and then go and wrap it over your block for a few minutes with only hand pressure it will form to the shape of the block. Then all you need to do is stitch it to a flat back piece. Pretty easy with a Speedy Stitcher.
