Due to the fact that it’s only vertical, I’d say it’s too much and I’d want to check the engine alignment. Particularly the up - down angle. Joe Valinoti S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221 (1984) Sea Harbour Yacht Club Oriental, NC
Any play at the bearing and shaft area will have unwanted vibrations while underway. I’m guessing the amount of play should be zero. I replaced ours about 2 years ago and it made a world of difference with vibrations.
It’s not a difficult thing as long as you have the proper tools, such as a large bearing puller to remove the prop. Once the prop is off, loosen or better yet -remove, the 2 -1/4" set screws at one side of the bearing strut. This is where you need another interesting tool. I used a 6" length of pipe with a 1" inside diameter and 1.25" outside diameter, that was split in two pieces lengthwise supplied by my local machine shop. The two pieces will sandwich the shaft between the bearing strut and hull. Temporarily clamp the two pieces together with a gear clamp until they start entering the strut. I used a hard wooden block to tap the split-pipe to push the old bearing out.
At first, I had a difficult time moving the bearing because someone installed it with Red Loctite material. Once I heated the strut with a propane torch, the bearing literally fell out of the holder.
I’m not sure if all the boats have a strut. Some have the shaft coming out of the hull. It may just be the “V” drive units. In this case, you have to remove the shaft also, then cut the old bearing lengthwise with a hacksaw blade and remove it. This type also has the lock screws.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221 (1984)
Sea Harbour Yacht Club
Oriental, NC