Does anyone know the bearing size?
Engine is a Westerbeke 21.
I know the shaft is 1 inch and the bearing is 4 inches in length but need the outside of the strut bearing itself.(or the inside of the strut)
I believe that those dimensions are in the owner’s manual.
Joe Valinoti
NS30U iL Gatto
Oriental. NCC
I’m not sure if this is what you’re looking for, Sue, but here’s the closest relevant information I could find in the manual.
I’ve attached the “Propeller Shaft Stuffing Box” diagram copied from about 33 pages into my manual.
It seems to show a 2" inner diameter Neoprene hose that’s to be clamped over the “FRP thru Tube molded into the hull”.
Unfortunately, that’s only a clue to the outer diameter of the shaft tube. It doesn’t specify the wall thickness or the inner diameter. So, if what you’re trying to replace is the cutless bearing, this doesn’t tell you what size you need. Unfortunately, this was the only item on the topic that I could find combing through the manual.
If the boat’s out and the prop’s off, I’d hope the yard could measure that from the outside, but I don’t know your circumstances so I don’t know if that helps you.
I was curious, so I looked over the manual pretty carefully and that’s all I found. Joe, if you know more specifically somewhere to look, maybe you could let Sue know?
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C, #143
(attachments)
26C shaft and stuffing box.PDF (24.4 KB)
I assume you want to replace the cutless bearing. To do this the old bearing will have to be removed and you can measure it then.
Bob Dryer
30C #170
I am trying to replace the cutlass bearing but need to order it shortly.
The boat is out of the water but can’t reach it due to snow & ice.
Hoping to have the bearing before having to pull the shaft & prop.
Prop removal is necessary, but are you sure you have to remove the shaft?
Bob Dryer
1983 30C
Hi Sue -
I tend to agree, in principle, with Bob - does the shaft have to come out ?? There are a load of interesting videos on YouTube, detailing this job with having to remove the shaft.
In the dead of winter, I sure would not be pulling the shaft unless it was essential. And (sorry but …), I would NOT buy a new cutlass bearing unless I had the old one (or pieces of it) in my mitts. BTW - where are you - what boat do you sail ??
Ernie A. in Toronto
Arrrghhh - sorry for the typo - " There are a load of interesting videos on YouTube, detailing this job WITHOUT having to remove the shaft." is what I wanted to say !!
Ernie A. in Toronto
There is a special tool made to replace the bearing without removing the shaft.
Joe Valinoti
NS30U iL Gatto
Oriental, NC
I just did this - twice - on Adagio. She’s a 30 but I think it should still work the same. Keep in mind the reason I did it was because of picking up a net with the prop which damaged the entire drive line. Prop had to replaced, strut was bent so had to be cut out, straightened and re aligned. Shaft had to be straightened and the output bearing on the gear had to be replaced. Good times.
Even leaving all of that out, doing the cutlass was fairly simple. I pulled the shaft. Unless your coupling is frozen on, which is a strong possibility if it’s been there for a long time, it should go fairly easy. Take the four bolts from the coupling out, separate from the gear, take out the set screws from the coupling and and drive the shaft out of the coupling with a punch and hammer if necessary. Then just go outside and pull the shaft. I had to turn the rudder but it cleared with the prop on. I let the yard change the bearing for me so I can’t comment on the size. I’m sorry. They keep them in stock. I will go by in the next day or two and ask. They use a reciprocating saw to SLOWLY cut the bearing almost through opposite the set screws. Then with a wedge tap it in enough to bend it and then manhandle it out with pliers. Once out, clean everything up and then cut the new bearing to length. And tap it into place in the strut.
After everything that happened to me I added a Drivesaver flexible coupling to hopefully avoid that much damage ever again. It also has the added benefit of not rusting to the gear coupling or shaft coupling so future removals will go a lot smoother.
Kevin Wilson
“Adagio”, NS30U #475
Biloxi, MS
If all that needs to be done it the bearing then there is no reason to remove the shaft. Lots of U tube on that process.
If you need to remove the shaft there are many utube videos on the subject. Do not use a slide hammer it will trash the transmission.
Removed mine my shaft flange by using a socket and long bolts. It took a LONG time. ie 3 days.
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/pss_shaft_seal
To replace the interference fit flange I heated the flange with a torch and cooled the shaft with dry ice. Took two attempts. I used a welders wax to determine when the flange was hot enough. Keeping the shaft key in place as the shaft slid in was the issue. PITA.
You will need to have a machine shop reface the flange and check that the shaft is straight. I used the opportunity to put a shaft saver on and it did smooth out the drive train.
Thor
The cutless bearing on my boat was called a Blackfish. Sue, I dont know what type of boat you have so this may not be right for you.
1 inch shaft , 1 1/4 OD , and 4 inch long.
I can’t imagine how not removing the shaft to get this bearing replaced would be easier unless you have the special tools. Having said that , my problem was the flange was stuck on the end of the shaft but once you know how to do it it is not difficult.
https://www.thechandleryonline.com/product_info.php?products_id=7912
Tom
26C #28 North Star with a W13
Penetang
Sue,
I don’t know the size of the bearing but it looks like Tom has it for you. It is better to take the old bearing out and match the new one to it.
Also don’t know if you were planning on doing the work yourself. I did not see anyone mention that there are set screws holding the bearing in place. There will be two that have to be removed. If you have a puller you can remover the bearing without having to remove the shaft. The propeller will have to be removed.
There are some good You Tube video’s on how to remove the bearing without removing the shaft. Here is a link to one watch
You can also find a couple of articles on Marine How To under “drive train”.
The pullers are expensive so it might be better to have someone with a puller do the work unless you can make up a puller of your own.
Someone else mentioned it, do not let anyone use a hammer to drive the bearing out. It will likely damage the transmission and or the “P” bracket.
My brother knows more about this then I do but he currently has computer issues that are keeping him from replying.
Mark Powers
LA Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.