I’m winterizing my boat, and this is the first time I’m winterizing any boat, for that matter. I didn’t sign up for the yard’s services, as their services have been pretty choppy. I’ve invited a captain I know who has been winterizing his boat, so I’m going to watch him do it and also learn from him. I also want to be really prepared for the process.
Is there a winterization checklist that we have in the Nonsuch group? I did find a few resources online, but is there anything specific to Nonsuch? I have a 1982 Nonsuch 26 Classic with no shore power, and I have a Westerbeke 27 HP engine.
Based on tonight’s temperatures, immediately remove the end covers from the engine heat exchanger and remove the seawater pump cover. This will serve two purposes: 1. You will get the seawater out preventing freeze damage to the heat exchanger and seawater pump. 2. You will be able the examine the condition of the heat exchanger water tubes and condition of the seawater pump impeller.
Drain the exhaust muffler. You will find a drain plug on the bottom of the muffler side.
Drain the fresh water tanks. Drain and preferably blow out the fresh water system with compressed air.
Drain the marine toilet and pump.
Hopefully you had the holding tank pumped.
Dry the bilge.
Some will advise pumping antifreeze into everything I listed above. If you are setup for that it is likely quicker. What I advised takes nothing but some simple hand tools and perhaps a small portable air compressor.
The other advantage of opening and draining is you get to look inside mechanical portions of your new to you decades old boat.
I hope you are not too late. It is 26 degrees in Niantic now.
Siva: I believe the owner’s manual tells you how to winterize. In theory, disconnect a hose in the fresh water system in the bilge and the tank/s should empty since that’s the lowest point. However, if I still lived in Highlands, I would run RV anti-freeze through that system. Same with the head, holding tank, bilge pump, etc. With a little bit of effort and minimal amount of money, you can run the same anti-freeze through the engines raw water system. See my photos for how I have mine plumbed. I believe I submitted an article on this in the archives. do they have a dependable bubble system in Liberty??
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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Don’t forget to close the through-hulls. Do you have a cover for it to keep snow out of the cockpit? You can also leave a heater on in the cabin with the engine access door open to the cabin to keep it from freezing in the interim.
Good luck -
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
Even here in NC, I run a small heater. However, since you do not have 110 VAC hardwired in your boat, you would have to run an extension cord. Some marinas prohibit them due to overheating & fire safely. My YC/marina only permits
30 amp hard wired cords. Consider getting an electrician to install one for you. Also, there are videos!! Bob is quite correct about through hulls. If the bubble system goes down, you could have a flooding situation if they are left open.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Wow! The extent of my winterization is making sure the light bulbs all work because the sun goes down early. But that list has a wealth of useful info even for me all in one handy place.
I spent about four hours with another captain I know from Brooklyn, winterizing, and here’s what I did:
I emptied both water tanks and poured antifreeze into them, then pumped it out to get antifreeze through the tanks, pipes, and out through the head system.
I ran antifreeze through the engine’s raw water impeller system and started the engine to get all the antifreeze out through the engine exhaust.
We couldn’t drain the oil because we couldn’t find the right wrench. I can come back and do it tomorrow, or I could leave the oil as is and change it later.
What do you recommend for the oil? The previous owner used to drain the oil during winterization, leave the engine as is, and then add the oil during launch. Should I leave the current engine oil as is, drain it and leave the engine dry, or refill it with new engine oil?
The other question is about the through hulls. I’m planning to keep the boat in the water this year. There’s no bubbler system at my dock, and it’s too late to move to docks with bubbler systems since they are all full. I’m definitely planning to shrink-wrap the boat to prevent snow accumulation on top.
Since I’ll be leaving the boat in brackish water at Liberty Landing Marina, where the water doesn’t freeze, what should I do about the through hulls?
Siva Surendira
Inner Peace NS26C #42
Liberty Landing Marina
Jersey City, NJ
Why won’t the water freeze, Siva?? I used to live in Highlands and the water froze a good portion of the time. It’s more likely for brackish water to freeze then more salty water. Even here in NC there have been times when the water in the creeks has frozen. I used to keep a Herreshoff 28 in Leonardo State Marina with a bubble system and the water froze all around it.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Hi Siva
As I read this thread continue I see several times a mention of removing the engine oil. I did not see any comments about replacing the engine oil, and replacing the filter. My practice has always been to change the oil and the filter before winter storage. I always do this before winterizing the seawater cooling circuit with antifreeze, as the engine needs to run for a while and warm up before you can drain the oil out easily and thoroughly. So if you opt to remove the oil - and I agree with this so as to get the contaminants in used oil out of the engine - you should also remove the filter. If you start the engine to warm up the oil you will have to re-do the step of running antifreeze through the seawater cooling circuit. I would endorse adding new filter and oil immediately after draining used oil. That avoids the potential terminal mistake of starting the engine with no oil in it after winter hibernation.
I am wondering why you chose to leave your boat in the water this winter? To me there is all risk and no reward to this if you don’t plan to do winter sailing. Hauling the boat onto land and unstepping the mast gives you safe storage in winter storms and freezing weather, and the opportunity to inspect and get familiar with and maintain every aspect of your boat and rig in between seasons.
Best wishes,
Greg Silver
Misty Cat, 26C #121
St. Peter’s, Cape Breton
Nova Scotia
Based on local knowledge at Liberty Landing Marina in Jersey City, the water hasn’t frozen in the marina for the last four years. Many boaters on my dock and in the neighboring docks leave their boats in the water throughout the winter. I’m following this local consensus, but I’m still getting the boat shrink-wrapped to ensure it’s secure from the snow this season. Furthermore, this upcoming winter is predicted to be even milder than last year, meaning the chances of the water freezing are even lower.
@Greg: I want to keep the boat in the water because I just had it hauled out midseason for cleaning and painting, and I also replaced the rudder. Additionally, I have a few winter projects to work on aboard. Given these factors, I’ve decided to leave the boat in the water this season.
I’ve also requested a slip with a bubbler system just a couple of docks away. If I manage to secure one, I’d likely move the boat there.
Siva Surendira
Inner Peace NS26C #42
Liberty Landing Marina
Jersey City, NJ
You should still fully winterize the engine, as putting antifreeze in the raw water side eliminates the salt, and besides, it has corrosion inhibitors. Two gallons should do it, but I use 3 because I don’t really know the volume in the engine and with my boat out of the water (mast down, by the way) it could get below zero Fahrenheit.
This is a good time to replace the anode on the heat exchanger. Westerbeke heat exchangers have multiple types of metals and go through anodes fast. You may find that your local supplier doesn’t have the right length. Mine only stocks 2" length and people just cut them as needed since zinc is so soft.
Definitely drain and replace the oil. You can run the antifreeze through at the end of the startup after putting oil in, thus only having to run the engine for a minute or so. Then top off the oil if needed. Putting clean oil in eliminates the corrosive elements sitting on internal parts all winter. I use Shell Rotella 15-40. I used to use the conventional T4 variety, but have switched to their T5 blended synthetic. I don’t think the T6 full synthetic is worth the extra cost. FYI, the issue with putting synthetics in old engines was with early synthetics sometimes being incompatible with seals, etc. That’s no longer the case. All that said, if you know what was in the engine, many say to keep using the same brand to avoid any possible incompatibility with the additives. Like the early synthetics issue, I think this has largely been resolved, especially since many companies license their additive packages to other brands.
Seal off the intake and exhaust (this is recommended by Westerbeke). Put a note on the key or over the ignition switch to remove them!
Dan Weinstein
Look Farther, 30C #205
East Greenwich RI
As Ron noted in a previous post, there is a sample winterization checklist on page 57 of the “New Owners Guide” available on the INA’s www.Nonsuch.org website.
Could I ask a favor of those posting advice to Siva on this topic? Would you mind taking a look at the checklist and sending me personal email if you think our New Owners Guide could be improved?
Thanks,
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Marina del Rey, California
(Where winterization consists of wearing a heavier long-sleeved shirt when you go sailing)
Thanks, Daniel, for all the feedback on the engine maintenance. I’m waiting for a new slip with a bubbler system, which I think I might get this week. If that happens, I’ll likely move the boat and take the opportunity to drain the engine oil and add new oil. I’ll also run the antifreeze one last time, top off the coolant, and consider changing the filter as well. I’ve noted your comment about closing both the intake and exhaust.
Siva Surendira
Inner Peace NS26C #42
Liberty Landing Marina
Jersey City, NJ
Bob,
I’d like to mention that as a new NonSuch sailor, the “New Owners Guide” has saved me lots of time, money, and heartache.
Many thanks to it’s contributors ! I will do my best to pay forward my debt to them.
Regarding the winterization instructions, I wouldn’t change them a bit for fear of getting too specific to region, boat, or engine make/model.
I use the “New Owners Guide” as a guide, not a gospel and develop checklists that are specific to Soave ( yet admittedly based on the original guide ). As you alluded to in your post, winterization in Marina del Rey, CA is different than Westport, CT.
This group has also provided incredible value to me, as new owner. I’m pretty sure my questions and comments have annoyed some, and I appreciate the patience and knowledge that group participants have shared.
Using the New Owners Guide as a guide and not as gospel is exactly the right approach. I’m glad you’re using it that way.
The goal in putting it together has been to give people the information needed to decide what’s best for their situation rather than trying to preach a one-size-fits-all set of rules.