An accidental (or unplanned) gybe should be avoided at all costs. The forces involved are enough that the mainsheet will remove anything attached to the pushpit rail and could even pull the block out the transom decking. To help alleviate the latter many of us have installed mooring compensators in to sheet, to absorb any sudden shocks.
Planned gybes can be carried out in one of two ways.
Hudson River Gybe.
This is accomplished by turning the boat rapidly through the wind so that by the time the boom has gybed round, the sail ‘crashes’ into the wind rather than the sheet. There must be nothing attached to the pushpit rail to impede the sheet as it flies across. The sail needs to be well out, possibly forward of the mast before attempting this manoeuvre, it also helps to practice in light airs.
Chicken Gybe (so-called in the Hinterhoeller manual and video)
This is the usual way of gybing by pulling the main sheet right in and then going through the wind.
Bob Illingworth
Nonsuch Luck 30U #367 (GBR1262T)
Moored Brightlingsea, UK cruising the rivers of East Anglia and the North Sea.
Instead of your typical “long” and heavy, clunky snubber, I use TWO of these little rubber doo-dads, made in Sweden, that pop on and off, without having to remove the mainsheet. I installed them just above where the mainsheet is attached to the stern, by a pad-eye.
You can find them in the States but I bought them from a marine shop in North Wales, while there on a trip.
Ernie, this look pretty neat. I see that you use two for your NS22, do you think more would be needed for the larger boats? It took me forever to find them in the USA (try to google Bungy and see what you get).
I finally found a link to one seller: http://www.happycove.com/bungy/
With regard to the Hudson River gybe and also to unplanned gybes, I have observed that it is impossible or almost impossible to gybe a NS30 with the sail ahead of the mast. I use the Hudson River gybe all the time and have tried in various winds to do this and find that the wind pressure on the sail forward of the mast just won’t let the bow come around.
FWIW I also find Hudson River gybes, once you get used to them, to get easier the faster you are sailing.
If you haven’t tried one and have reservations I would suggest:
Clear the pushpit rail of any valuable protrusion like a barbecue, outboard motor etc.
Get in a downwind position with the sail out 90 degrees, wind directly behind
Make a note of the shoreline or some reference dead abeam where the clew of the sail is pointing
Turn the wheel hard into the gybe and leave the sheet alone
Keep turning until your bow passes the reference point
You will likely have to free the sheet from some part of the pushpit where it is hung up but it’s easy to do because you will be well in irons.
As you gain confidence you will start turning the wheel back as soon as the sail flashes across to catch the wind softly in the sail rather than ending up in irons or coming up hard on the sheet. You will also get used to the spots that the hang ups happen and can get them cleared as soon as the boom has passed.
I did my racing days with a trimaran, but plan to use my N22 strictly for cruising and will keep my dinghy motor mounted on the stern rail. I have read much on this forum about the popularity of the so called Hudson River Jibe and that the sheet will likely foul anything on the rail. Is the usual method of sheeting in first such a terrible thing? Joe, what is the reason you prefer the HRJ? Is the boat difficult to control using the Chicken Jibe technique?
It’s been a long haul, but I’m hoping to have Magic Time in the water by the end of January. I’ve spent considerable time and energy doing her make over, but she is such a well built vessel that she is worthy of the effort. I haven’t sailed any Non Such, but have owned a couple of smaller cat boats, so I am excited to how she sails. I already know that as a cruiser she will be more than ample for my wife and I. Our community has our own marina, but the size limit is 26’X8.5’ so after scouring the available vessels that meet that criteria, the NS22 is the most accommodating that I found for spending extended periods on. The 26 would have been sweet, but too wide and draught of 4.5’ is asking a bit much here in Florida.
There is a huge amount of sheet to haul in and then let out and a huge amount of power in that big sail. I sail alone and tow my dinghy with the motor on so for me it is much easier and safer to HRG than to try sheeting in and then try to control the sheet going out. The worst that can happen to me with HRG is I get stuck in irons but that doesn’t happen often anymore.
I have found a gybe technique that seems to work well, eliminates the slamming of the sheet, and avoids the problem of fouling anything on the pushpit including the swim ladder struts. I sail to the lee upwards of 20 degrees. Put some friction onto the helm. When the sail is starting to think about auto-gybing, take the bull by the horns and grasp all three sections of the sheet, and start hauling it in manually as fast as possible hand over hand. Do not try to use the single section of sheet that you normally trim with, you will not be able to keep up. I actually face the stern and just dump the sheet in the cockpit as the boom comes across. Once it has crossed centerline let go of any sheet you may still have in hand. The sail will gently settle on the new tack. This technique keeps the sheet well clear of the pushpit and when the gybe is complete, steer down to your desired heading. Very important: do not, I repeat, do not lift your feet off the floor of the cockpit lest you step through a section of the sheet gathered. That would not end well.
Pat Furr
NS 26C
Bandolero
Charlotte, VT
Pat,
Great minds think alike.
I use essentially the same technique. I turn side ways not all the way around to backward. When I am ready I put the helm down about 1/2 a turn and hold it with my knee. As the power comes out of the sail I hand the two parts behind me. I don’t touch the tail coming off of the winch. When the sail starts to accelerate across I let the sheet go and lean forward. As you say. “DO NOT MOVE YOUR FEET” also make sure the sheet goes behind you. This may work better on a 26 or the 22 with the shorter sheet and smaller sail forces than on the larger boats, . I do not have items stored on the pushpit. The flag staff was ripped of the rear deck before we purchased La Reina ( I assume in a gybe). No barbecues or outboards are mounted there. I do have the Lifesling attached but it sits below the top of the rail. At one time I had a stern tie line on a reel attached to the starboard side of the pushpit ahead of the stern. If got pulled off during a gybe so now it lives in the cockpit locker until it is needed.
Friends of ours bought a 30 Nonsuch after having been out on a sail with us. After they bought the boat they took another friend for a sail on their new boat. He advised he knew all about sailing cat boats and would show them how to gybe. As the boom started to swing across he reached up and grab the sheet with the intention of easing it across. He did not let go. So as the boom crossed the stern and headed out on the new tack he went with it. Apparently his weight was sufficient to dampen the impact as the sheet ran out. He found himself about 25 feet off the beam of the boat hanging on like grim death. They were able to bring him back on board. They did not use his technique.
Mark,
The story of your friend’s experienced cat boat skipper made my evening. I was picturing the event as you described it. What a way to demonstrate how not to do it. Reminded me of the final episode in the Popeye cartoon series. Bluto and Popeye buried the axe and became good friends. Bluto invited Popeye to go deep sea fishing. When they got to the spot, Bluto asked Popeye to throw the anchor. Popeye didn’t notice that he had stepped into a loop of the anchor rode. Of course he got pulled overboard without his spinach. Like I said, that was the final episode for obvious reasons.
Pat Furr
NS 26C #133
Bandolero
Charlotte, VT
You are a braver man than I Mark. I never touch my sheet and it stays behind the cockpit where I like it. I can’t imagine bringing it into the cockpit on purpose. Of course I have bigger feet than you do.
While racing single handed several years ago, I gybed and grabbed the sheet to bring it through the cockpit and it fouled my wrist. I still have ether scars. One learns.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
I posted a photo of the Swedish “bungy” a while back during dock-line shock absorber
discussion. Caution: They are not UV proof, so I made a zip up a white Sunbrella protective sleeve that has protected them for some years.
Dick Lane
Ns26c #35 Swoose
Port Townsend.
Ernie: Thanks for the enlightening words of praise for the N22, that has stirred excitement in my soul, as it’s been a long dry spell for me working on this boat. You made me believe that it will be well worth it.
Pat: I understand your procedure and appreciate your caveat. So it’s basically a standard gybe on steroids. I am visualizing a technique of gathering in the sheet during the maneuver, but doing so facing aft while standing forward of the wheel, but then again, I would not be able to reach the sheet from that position.
Well now I have something to look forward to learning.
Thank you gentlemen,
Ron Weber
N22 Magic Time
Punta Gorda Fl
Gybing is a serious matter on our Nonsuches. I have seen and experienced some near catastrophes on gaff rigged cats, and on Nonsuches over the past 35 years during which I have owned both types, and sailed on same owned by others. An accidental jibe is definitely something you want to avoid, but if you find yourself in that situation, and if you have practiced the Hudson River Jibe, you can avoid a catastrophe. There are other posts and the videos on INS members’ website to instruct on the Hudson River Jibe. It is simple in concept but requires practice to do it effectively. As others have pointed out, the HRJ(G) is simply tacking downwind, but tacking high enough so that your wishbone, once it crosses your centreline, will not run to the end of its sheet, causing no shock on your mainsheet or deck or wishbone fittings. You have to be sure your sheet is clear of catching on any protrusions on the boat aft deck, or human limbs when the 120’ or so of line (I have a 26, your sheet may be longer or shorter) unwinds. This is accomplished by gathering and tossing it aft and clear as the wishbone swings over your centreline.
The importance of this knowledge and skill set was reinforced to me about 10 years ago, during an ocean race from Halifax to St. Pierre on a Nonsuch 30. During gusting southerly winds as we headed north, on a dark, rainy and foggy night one of my 3 mates (an experienced sailor, but not with Nonsuch experience) was on the helm sitting with his back in the aft high side of the cockpit. An accidental gybe brought the mainsheet across his chest and crushed him - broke 2 ribs - as we discovered after x-rays when we got ashore.
For those of us with an arch or bimini frame to keep the sheet out of the cockpit, this kind of incident can be avoided. But a loose sheet can land in the cockpit and wrap an instrument on your binnacle, a human limb, or a deck-mounted flagpole on your aft deck.
Here’s a neat video I stumbled on today, watch for the gybe.
As this thread started with a question about gybing a Nonsuch while racing, a few observations:
When racing in our PHRF fleet and close-hauled at the start, we frequently gybe. Obviously no problem, since we’re already sheeted in. We do have two of the Bungy snubbers on the mainsheet to reduce any shock loads.
On the downwind leg of the course, we often will take advantage of the Nonsuch ability to let the sail out more than 90 degrees, and often sail by the lee to about 120 degrees apparent wind angle on the “wrong side”. Both provide lots of racing flexibility going downwind – in particular we can sail fast in a straight line, while the sloops are tacking downwind.
When sailing downwind our choker is let out. On Sheba, this means the aft end of the boom would be forward of the bimini frame. We always tighten the choker before gybing to keep clear of the bimini (and cockpit occupants too). Any accidental gybe could cause a problem, but with our choker slack an accidental gybe is extra problematical. We’re very careful going downwind (especially if by the lee), to avoid an accidental gybe.
I often race single-handed, and the toughest maneuver is rounding the downwind mark and coming up to close-hauled. Even with crew this is a demanding maneuver, since we have to take in so much mainsheet, adjust the choker, luff tension, and may need to gybe. Our usual maneuver is to gybe (if needed) – Hudson River gybe, since we’re on the Hudson – about 10 boat lengths from the mark, then start to bring the sail in as close to the mark as possible (winching it in – since it’s under pressure it’s not a fast process), so that we’re just about fully sheeted in by the time we reach the mark, then round the mark and head up to close-hauled and adjust trim. We sacrifice some performance as we bring the sail in while still downwind.
Sometimes, like most of our competitors, we won’t sheet in the sail until we’re rounding the mark. When heading up and pressure is off the sail, we can bring it in quickly hand-over-hand. But it still takes some time getting all that sheet in, so practicing with crew is important. If we’re not quick, we lose too much time luffing at the mark rounding while bringing the main in – better to have brought it in most of the way before rounding the mark.
When gybing, I’m always amazed at how the mainsheet can catch on every possible piece of equipment from bimini frame, to pushpit, to davits. Always have to keep an eye on it, and respond quickly if needed.
Tony Martin
Sheba, Nonsuch 30C #212
Nyack Boat Club, Nyack, NY
Tony, thank you so much. I’m about to start PHRF Single and Double Handed racing Hobbes II (my NS 354) in San Francisco Bay next spring (hopefully!!) and your guidance will do me well.
I used to do the full Hudson River Gybe with Deal Me In (my former '89 NS 30U) until I ripped the sail mid leech rounding Alcatraz to starboard in a 25+kt blow one fine day. I then became a Chicken Gyber except for the occasional accidental gybe in confused very light winds.
Having never raced at all before, the start and rounding the downward mark are two of the biggest (and scariest) challenges that I envision. Your explanation of how you do the downward mark rounding has eased my mind considerably for at least one of them, particularly in the 30+kt westerly winds we get in afternoon in our summers here…
And thank you all for the “Bungy” posts. A pair of those look like a great addition to my new 10oz Dacron Somerset Sail (courtesy Martin Padilla, Barker, NY) and 110’ of new Samson 10mm MLX3 mainsheet line. I assume you put the two Bungies up close to the pad eye in the transom deck?
Wishing a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!
Michael Jabara
Hobbes II - 1995 NS 354
San Rafael, CA
Getting back to Ron Weber’s post about using the boat strictly for cruising…
Ron,
Congratulations on your new boat. Having sailed in Florida and having once discovered while doing so that I had four inches of water under my keel, I see why you went with the smaller boat.
You might want to keep in mind that the bulk of this discussion has been by racers concerned with the fastest way to jibe with reasonable safety. As a cruiser, you may be more concerned about the safest way to jibe with reasonable speed.
For jibing in light air as a cruiser, I vote for hauling in the main, crossing the wind, and easing the main. You don’t have to worry that way about mainsheet tangles or snags on either people or equipment.
In heavy air, if you’re not trying to beat someone to somewhere, it’s very easy simply to throw the rudder over to come about and continue turning to do a 270 degree turn to the opposite downwind tack. In heavy air, you should have enough way to do the full turn and you can control how quickly the sheet comes over by how quickly you make the turn.
This will NOT win any races, but if you’re just out for the pleasure of it, who cares?
If it hurts your pride because you think other boaters will see you and think you’re chicken, just keep in mind that Nonsuches are different boats and you’re entitled to sail them differently. You’re already smarter than they are, anyway, because you have a Nonsuch and they don’t.
This is not intended as a criticism of the great advice that’s been posted already about how to do it fastest. I do it both ways, depending on mood, and can assure you that the advice that’s been offered by other posters is excellent.
attached to the pushpit rail and could even pull the block out the transom decking. To help alleviate the latter many of us have installed mooring compensators in to sheet, to absorb any sudden shocks.
