I am about to change out the exhaust hose. I suspect it at least 30 years old, the muffler is ealking and the injection elbow is about to go… I an using 2 inch ID, 2.5 inch ID Trident Flex hose. Trident sells clamps with the following specs
2.28 - 2.59 inches range
or
2.53 - 2.84 inches…
Logic says the first one but .09 is not a lot of wiggle room. 3/32 approx
.03 I could clamp down ??
These are the t - bot screw and bolt type clamps not the worm type “hose”
In my opinion, if it says it will fit 2.5” OD hose, then it will, with just enough wiggle room.
Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind
N30U 419
Deep River, CT
I would go with the larger ones. 1/4” of tail is not embarrassing. 1/2” definitely is and too short would be soul-crushing!
Bob G
The three bolts on the exhaust side are doing their best to crush my soul… on off easily, two are playing silly buggers…I so do not want to snap them…
The hose will squeeze down slightly as you tighten the clamp, so it seems to me that the first one you listed should fit fine. The smallest diameter of the second one is still larger than the 2.5" hose (if it really is exactly 2.5") and so will never really tighten down on it.
Thor: There are various ways to remove those bolts without snapping them. One is to be patient and tap them with a heavy hammer square on the head after soaking them with penetrant. Do this every day for a week. Try and turn them either way a tiny bit each day.
Good luck,
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
So the bolts. I disassembled the suspension on my British car using a "freeze - penetrating oil " product. Saved me from burning it down with a torch. It was a long process, I went through several cans of the stuff but it worked in the end.
These bolts are so far resisting but I only been at it for 3 days. I freeze , drench and tap, repeat. These are nuts on threaded studs. Worse case I can cut the bolts with a dremel cut off wheel… but last resort.
Was wondering it my Milwaukee impact drill might be a good way to “tap” Or is that too aggressive?
As for the clamps, Trident replied that the smaller size is the one… however Mark made a good suggestion to try one out before so I am off to the chandlery to take some measurements.
Do not cut the bolts because you won’t have any way to grab them. Most auto parts stores sell an impact driver that you can put a socket on. This is a good example. As you hit it, it impacts the head and tries to turn it. Make sure you use a six point socket, not a 12. https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/power-tool-accessories/screwdriver-bits/28667?x429=true&x429=true&gclid=f03b5c134de71b3e728c39cc3ed6fd10&gclsrc=3p.ds&gclid=f03b5c134de71b3e728c39cc3ed6fd10&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=f03b5c134de71b3e728c39cc3ed6fd10&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLAs_FF4-Power_Tools_All_Other_Other&utm_term=4581802410228578&utm_content=Tools_Power-Tool-Accessories_All_Other
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
The hose clamp discussion got me thinking I should inspect mine. Have neglected to do so the past 4 years. I found a few that needed snugging up but I found a big one on the exhaust hose that was completely broken in half. Teachable moment about the need to check regularly.
George Berntsen
Wave Dancer 30U #283
Black Rock Harbor, CT
I was attempting to remove one of the screws holding the casting to the boom tubes. I got out my impact driver. I gave a solid whack on the driver and watched the head of the screw twist off in one easy motion. Not my finest moment. Moral of the story is make sure the entire screw/bolt is ready to give up its grip.
Mark Powers
Thor,
Klein Tools has a hammer-driven impact wrench that would be less aggressive to try than a powered impact wrench. See “https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/multi-bit-nut-drivers/impact-driver-screwdriver-reversible-6-piece”. Also, I have always found that using an electric heat gun to be helpful and safer than a touch. Finally, as you probably already know, patience is your best friend when trying to remove frozen bolts. Also, you might find it interesting that the Westerbeke Parts Manual indicates that “LOC-TITE ANTI-SEIZE MUST BE USED ON THREADS FOR EXHAUST CONNECTIONS”.
Good luck!
Mike
Nonsuch 30U
Hull #272
Dutch Harbor, RI
We were away cruising for five years on a complicated boat, e.g. 14 through-hulls. I did a complete inspection and found quite a few broken hose clamps. It is tricky because they stay in position and you often can’t see the break. I replaced the clamps with the non-perforated kind that are much better in design and build. They are more expensive, but worth it I think.
LOL Westerbeke and Anti Seize in the same sentence… I love my engine Betty runs like a wiz, but there are frustrating aspects.
I have a bolt breaker and a Dremel cut off wheel. I’ll give another half dozen tries with the penetrating oil and hot / cold then wack wack…
This stuff is great for any bolts, anti galling on stainless / aluminum.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/anti-seize-lubricants/loctite_lb_80230.html
Kinda a once size fits all.
I am dealing with a nuts, not bolts, in a way easier as there are more options.
If the other methods don’t work, will you be able to get a nut splitter in there?
Mark Powers
I have one but it’s too large to fit. But I found one on Amazon that is open on one side and I hope it will do the job. Otherwise I will cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel and a cold chisel.
I am applying penetrating oil,heat and tapping twice a day… and I need to get to the stuffing box. But I think that will be easier.