Last weekend I had Mark Powers aboard with me in Ganges Harbour and we took the opportunity to make a couple of videos of the much discussed Hudson River gybe.
Through the wonders of modern e-gadgetry I was able to slow down the faster parts and clearly show what happens to the sheet.
In the first video the wishbone is about 15 -20 degrees abaft the mast.
In the second it is sheeted to about 45 degrees.
Notes:
At 45 degrees
it is not necessary to touch the sheet at all
the wheel is held at hard over until the sail is all the way around
the line leaps over any low obstructions and flys well behind the cockpit
not much way is lost in the process
no hard catch at the end
At 15-20 degrees
it sometimes helps to lift the inboard end of the sheet a little
the wheel is spun back to hard over the other way as soon as the sail backwinds to prevent stalling in irons
the line drags along the pulpit rail all the way but still flys well behind the boat
more way is lost than at 45 degrees but still no stall
no hard catch at the end
At no time in either scenario did the sheet come into the cockpit area. Centrifugal force throws it out behind the boat.
If done correctly, no hard shock happens at the end of the gybe. That ‘s where the steering comes in. It’s something that requires practice (and no obstructions on the pulpit at all).
There are three possible outcomes.
-you end up in irons
-you end up with a big shock load on the sheet
-you just continue sailing with the sail full
How you steer at the boom angle you are using will determine which you get.
Paul, an extremely skillful sailor (not to mention a man of excellent taste, as shown by his choice of a Tilley hat), makes it look easy.
A Hudson River Gybe requires a very good sense of how much, how fast, and when to turn the wheel.
The original sailmaker for the boats, Ed Botterell, was not a fan. He argued that it was only for very experienced sailors and that it should be practiced extensively in light air if done at all.
Paul’s is a really nice demonstration of how to do it right, and I admire his skills.
The interesting thing is (though I do agree to practice in lighter airs) that the stronger the wind the easier and safer it is once you know the drill. The faster the boom swings the further out of harm’s way the sheet flies and the faster the boat pivots.
I am new to the Nonsuch family but have been sailing since 1963.
I Started on a Sunfish and moved on to a 34’ sloop in 1989. I have never been afraid to do controlled gibes with a preventer on my sloop.
I would hate to give up that maneuver on my N30U.
BUT
Your pushpit top rail is beautifully clean.
Mine has a swim ladder, outboard, and a motor lift to get in the way.
After watching your very informative video dozens of times I have a question.
I am thinking of adding a one inch diameter SS tube as a sheet guard:
This tube would be 6 inches inside of the curve of the existing stern rail.
I would like it to be at bimini height.
Although
I could set it above the offending outboard if I added a gate in the center
DO YOU THINK THIS WOULD WORK?
Fran Cichowski captfran1@gmail.com
Southpaw N30U
Noank, CT
If I understand correctly, I don’t think a rail at bimini height would help much. A rail just above the outboard might work but might also be a problem in itself. A better idea might be to find an alternate place for the outboard. I keep mine on the dinghy, towed behind when sailing. If I’m day sailing the dinghy stays at the dock and the motor is in my garage.
Personally I find it safer and less frantic this way, especially as a single-hander.
Is there something specific that you see in the videos that troubles you?