In prep for the trip to the Rendezvous, I cleaned both water tanks and filled them completely for the first time. The pressure had water leaking at a steady clip out from the screws/port flange that hold the four ports in place. As I flushed the water lines, it seemed that air was actively leaking out between the tank and the port flange that the screws mount through. It formed a steady stream of bubbles.
Is this normal? Am I in need of replacing all four water tank ports?
Lastly - the Nonsuch plumbing map shows an optional charcoal filter. What do folks recommend and where does it get mounted to get both tanks at once?
Chris, if you are referring to the fittings that are screwed into the plastic water tank that you attach the water hoses/pipes to… no they should not leak at all. Be sure the hose clamps are tight. If the fittings leak then first remove them to ensure they are not cracked. To reinstall them, put a little Sikalex 291 or 3M 4200 on the threads before screwing back into tank. Do not over tighten when reinstalling the fitting in the tank, just snug.Then let sit for 24 hrs to cure sealant before reattaching the water hoses.
As for the filter, I pre-filter the water before putting it in the tank with household water filter. This keeps debris from getting into your tank. Then I have a Camco RV carbon filter mounted in bilge area. This replaced a small Jabsco screen filter before the water pressure pump. See photos.
Chris, if you are referring to the inspection ports on top of the tank, they should not Leak either but it might not take much pressure to start a leak. I wrapped some teflon tape around the threads on the caps but I still get a small amount of leaks if I over fill the tanks. Like Don I filter the water with a householder charcoal filter before it goes into the tank. I filter the water for drinking but have not filtered all of the water coming out of the tanks. If I don’t have enough pressure my on demand hot water heater won’t work.
Don - this helps greatly. As per Mark’s comment, does this particular mounted filter interfere still allow the on-demand hot water system to work properly?
Mark - it is indeed the inspection ports. The screw in cap wasn’t leaking, but it was via the screws and mounting flange that allowed the water to flow out. I am thinking of removing the ports and use a sealant (flexible, such as that used to seal a deck hatch) between the flange and in the screw holes. Thoughts?
Chris, sounds like the route to go. Remove the screws and then use a putty knife to free the flange from the top of the tank. Give both a careful clean removing all of the old sealant. You might want to use a silicone remover in case that was the type of sealant used in the past. Since it is being used on your water tanks you will want to use something that is food safe. Check for yourself but I believe that butyl rubber or Sikaflex A-1 both qualify. You can also consider a food safe silicone. Any sealant should be allowed to cure for 7 days before you use the tank.
Check that the retaining screws have not stripped the thread in the holes. If they have you can go up a size on the screws so they grip properly.
Chris, the pre-filter is not a charcoal filter. Just a household type I got at Home Depot, you can unscrew it and replace the cartridge filter. I attached a brass water connector on one side compatible with dock (garden) hose. And a short piece of PVC hose on the other side that goes into the tank deck filler. The small clip on top is to attach it to the lifeline while in use.
I don’t have a on demand type hot water system. I have a engine/110vac heated hot water tank. But I didn’t notice any reduction in water pressure after installing the Camco charcoal filter.
