This is the standard pipe in Whisker for the potable water systems. I’m installing a fresh water flush head, so I need to insert a T fitting somewhere in a cold water line after the accumulator to supply the head. Has anyone used a Sharkbite T fitting for this type of need? If so, did you use the Sharkbite with the grey insert or the tan insert?
Also, rather than try to install tank level sensors in my fresh water tanks, I was thinking about just installing a DAE PD 50my flow meter in front of the fw pump and lead the sensor wires to my VE Ekrano. Has anyone do e this as a means of tracking fw use and tank levels?
I have used the Sharkbite fittings for some changes to fresh water lines and have not had a problem in the last 4 years. I have heard that vibration can be a problem but I have not seen any issues. I used the tan insert fittings.
I installed a fresh water head last summer. My water lines are flexIible hose, I installed a nylon T-fitting in the cold water line connected to head sink, then to toilet one-way valve (see photo). As for tank monitor, I have a Tech-Edge i-Series tank monitor (tankedge.com) that can monitor several tank, comes with sensors for 3 tanks, but you can add more. Tanks must be plastic, not metal. No need to drill holes in tanks, and can be calibrated for irregular shaped tanks. I bought mine from Marine Outfitters in Ontario, but looks like Amazon sells it too.
Thanks Don. My starting point looks different than yours. The only braided nylon water lines on Whisker are the shower sump and the raw water intake that currently feeds the head and the foot pump at the sink. The rest of it is that grey allegedly same as copper pipe that was used back in the '90’s. My 1996 Sea Ray has the same thing and I can’t find compatible parts anywhere. A couple of AI sources referenced shark bites as compatible, and based on Blake’s reply and experiences, I’m going to try that. My water source for the head is going to be the same as yours - cold water pipe that feeds the head vanity. I was thinking I would use the braided nylon from the shark bite T to the head because its way more flexible than pex. Going to put in a shut off and backflow preventer on that line too, although I think the head has a built in backflow preventer on the FW side. I know there’s a duckbill on the discharge side. Appreciate the quick response!
My freshwater head is a Jabsco 12vdc electric unit and comes in two versions; one with a seawater flush and the other freshwater. The gizmo with the hose and wires attached to it in my earlier photo is a one-way check valve backflow preventer that comes with the toilet. I chose freshwater flush as it reduces tank orders from seawater critters. Plus, if I’m ever concerned about freshwater tank levels I can always just pour in a bucket of seawater to flush.
Will you be attending the Nonsuch Rendezvous at Genoa Bay in July?
We went with the Dometic Orbit 712001 FW head for the same reasons as you outlined. The head macerator is integral to the unit in the base, and we also have a separate macerator for overboard discharge when permitted and needed. Our Y-Valve has some interesting connections and routings, so I’m changing that up a bit too when I install the new head. I’m also installing a switch that will ensure the head cannot be used at the same time as the overboard macerator so we will never have a double amp draw in the same circuit.
We are attending the Genoa Bay rendezvous in July! Looking forward to meeting other Nonsuch owners in our area!
