So when coming hard up into the wind today, this happened:
Those four wood screws should be through bolts.
Tim in STL
White O’morn NS e26U #216
Harbor Point Yacht Club
West Alton, MO
There are many choices. Since I have some scrap Star Board laying around, I use it without any problems. Definitely through bolt that swivel.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Yikes!!
I support all of the above, these should have been throughbolted and a Starboard or other HDPE plastic pad would be far better than teak.
If the coaming on yours is like the others, I’m pretty sure it will be a fiberglass/plywood/fiberglass sandwich. A backing plate or large fender washers on the throughbolts should be sufficient. The forces are lateral rather than pulling on it.
You might want to doublecheck the sizing on the turning block, as well. You want blocks with breaking strengths at or above what’s spec’ed for the lines going through it. That block looks undersized compared to what I’m used to seeing on 36s, but that’s just judging by the picture so it could be ok.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Hi Tim
I agree. Do you happen to know if there is anything backing those screws under the glass? I would imaging the two screws must be in something substantial. I have not yet tried to reach it .
Thanks
Lee
Jotu
NS36 #15
Yikes is right! Happened just as we were crossing the starting line during a club regatta race. (Still finished and tied for first…)
Thanks everyone
Lee
I do concur with everyone who mentioned through-bolting. I’m surprised to see just wood screws into the teak trim to hold the stress of the mainsheet, even though it’s a shear load. If an upgrade is considered, an angle bracket so as to fasten this turning block to the outside of the coaming would use the perimeter of coaming structure to take the compression load effortlessly. With through bolts and backing plate, of course. Best wishes to fellow sailors!
Greg Silver
Misty Cat 26C #121 (ashore in shed for mid life renewal)
St. Peter’s, Cape Breton
So here is the latest in this saga. In removing the cheek block from the teak pad I discovered it was not screwed into the teak oak with wood screws. See below:
It was screwed to the teak pad with machine screws!
I am surprised it stayed in place this long. I doubt this was original Hinterholler work but would encourage all to check their own boats that have a similar main sheet arrangement.
The replacement will have a HDPE spacer and will be through bolted. I also thought about Greg’s idea of utilizing an angle bracket but think the trough bolting will be adequate
I will post more as the repair proceeds
Thanks All
Lee
Well, ain’t that ridiculous !! I’m glad that no one got clobbered when this thing went flying. I’d be floored if this “installation” was original.
Ernie A. in Toronto
