On my 82 Nonsuch 26 I have a turning block that is mounted on the starboard side aft coaming that routes the main sheet to the winch. I have noticed that on my friends NS 30U this block is replaced by a freestanding block attached to an eye on the fairlead for the starboard stern cleat. Has anyone removed turning block on the coaming and replaced it with one on the fairlead?
Your thoughts please.
Thanks
Randy Gadikian
Phoenix
82 NS 26C #37
Buffalo
Randy;
On our 26, the main sheet from winch to this turning block rubbed on our bimini frame. So, a couple of years ago I did a “quick” fix - I lashed another block to this turning block, and friction reduced considerably! Unfortunately, it does impinge a bit on fully opening that lazarette, but that is not an issue.
I see two issues with adapting your friends’ suggestion to the 26.
I do when walking back to our swim platform walk around the cramped back corners, and having a block tied there would increase more things to tiptoe around;
I’d expect that the line would come in low on the winch; probably not much of a problem, but maybe?? I’m sure the resident winch experts will chime in.
PS - I’ve printed out your “deck hatch re-bed” notes, and will get to ours as it has bubbled up to near the top of “the list”
Best regards;
JohnS NS26C 046 Bath ON.
Thanks John,
As I was looking the situation over today I thought about how much of a mess of lines it would make if I moved the block so great minds think alike.
As far as the deck hatch is concerned remember that masking tape is your best friend. While you are working on the hatch you may as well replace the hatch gasket.
Cheers,
Randy
Randy,
I moved both of the mainsheet blocks off of the coaming. The standing block with becket I moved to the small raised deck area on the transom. I made a small mounting pad out of Western Red Cedar and used an aluminum plate as a backer under the deck. The amount of curve in the deck surprised me.
I removed the flat cheek block on the starboard corner of the coaming replaced it with a block and shackle attached to the rear starboard chock casting. I then put a sloped pad under the mainsheet winch so that the angle the sheet entered the winch was not as a cute. This also raised the sheet above the coaming as it entered the winch.
The purpose of the process was to move the sheet further away from the person on the helm. We have a step fender that we tie to the side by the boarding gate for when we want to use the dinghy. We prefer that to climbing up the stern boarding ladder. When the dinghy is at the stern the wind and current tend to move it away from the mothership while they both act to pin the dinghy to the hull when it is tied to the side. I have marked the dinghy painter so that I have a consistent length that puts the dinghy seat in line wit the finder step when the dinghy is tied off to the centre cleat. We found that when we climbed off and on at the stern we tended to grab the mainsheet which wobbled when you wanted it to hold firm.
I tired to attach photos but I think the resolution is too high. I get the notice the message is too long.
Mark Powers
I’ll be interested to see Mark’s photos if/when he gets them up. (Mark, if you’re willing and have a Google account with free storage, you could put them up there and share the link in a post.)
The N30’s were designed with a freestanding block off the line chock, the N26s were designed with the turning block on the coaming (as, I believe, also were the boats larger than 30).
I’d had similar thoughts and considered rearranging the blocks, but ultimately couldn’t figure out any better way to do it. Mark’s approach sounds interesting, but I’m personally wary of installing sloped pads because it’s beyond my skill set to get the holes drilled and the bolts backed up properly.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch 26U #233
I missed typed myself. I did not slope the paid under the winch. I simply raised it.
Mark Powers
Through the mysteries of mailing systems, Mark emailed me the pictures that were too big for him to post, and yet they got to me sized small enough to post. So, the above is his lower mainsheet block relocated to the deck.
He then routes it to a turning block on the line chock at the corner of the stern. He noted in the email that his brother Rob has a similar arrangement, but uses a soft shackle.
And, from there to the mainsheet winch, sitting on a raised (not slanted) pad to improve the line angle.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch 26U #233
Thank you Bob.
For those with too much curiosity, the aluminium pole in the first photo is a boat hook that I converted into a boom crutch. The blue racing stripe in the third photo is to remind me that there is a dodger hoop overhead so I don’t straighten up too quickly. The pad under the winch is between 1 1/2" to 2" thick teak.
Mark Powers
Mark,
Thank you for your thoughtful reply. I may make this change next season. At this point I want to get my boat in the water and go sailing. I have spent 15 months on a 3 month restoration of the deck. Now I want to sail. Just a few more challenges to overcome.
Randy
Go sailing. If you don’t it becomes a work boat, not a pleasure craft.
Mark Powers
