Motor raw water strainer identification

Is there anyone out there that can help me identify the make if this raw water strainer on a 1987 Westerbeke 27 diesel? It appears to be bronze. It is on a 1987 Nonsuch 30 ultra. I am looking to buy a spare cap that I can fix a hose fitting for the purpose of winterizing without removing the hose from the thru hull sea cock to the strainer.

Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind
N30U 419
Deep River, CT

I installed a
Groco safety seacock converter immediately after the raw water inlet.

I just winterized by closing the Seacock, pulling the plug on the converter and pouring in antifreeze through a hose attached to the converter.

Joe
Sea Horse
N26c in Maryland

(attachments)

I have the same strainer but do not know the make.
I drain the water from the sea side of the cooling system rather than deal with antifreeze.
My procedure is to dump the strainer, open the raw water pump cover, drain the heat exchanger, drain the muffler, drain any hoses with low pockets.
If you take the end cap(s) off off the heat exchanger to drain it then, you have had a look see at the pump impeller and inside of the heat exchanger.
Perhaps you will have found something to deal with before spring rather than to find it at an inconvenient time after the boat is launched next spring.

Ward Woodruff
N33 #8 Margery
Niantic Bay, CT

I believe it’s a Groco older version of an ARG raw water strainer.

I winterize by taking the hose to the strainer off at the seacock and put it in a five gallon bucket of fresh water and run the engine. When the bucket gets really close to empty I dump two gallons of antifreeze in it and run the engine until the exhaust water is pink.

Bill M.
NS30U #335
Summer Song,
Mystic, CT

At some point we put a section of garden hose into a bucket of antifreeze and held the other end directly into the through hull fitting (from the outside). The pump sucked that antifreeze through the engine in less than a minute. No fuss. In the spring we do the same with fresh water. The hose seals well in the the through hull fitting with the hose fitting cut off.
Bill Kroes
NS 36 #24
Canatara
Sarnia ontario

Brian - Here’s what’s on my 30U #396.

Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland

(attachments)

Groco ARG-500.pdf (294 KB)

As you can see in the photo, I have an inlet to the system and just connect a hose to flush it and then place the hose in a bucket and it sucks the anti-freeze through the system. It is also a back-up emergency bilge pump. By the way, I strongly advise you to get rid of any 90 deg turns as they tend to clog.

Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA


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![NS30U FlushValve001.jpg|2288x1712](upload://k8axzpIgxtAbU0YZZlPsfGRUP5U.jpeg)

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When I went to winterize the engine raw water system I could not remove the wet exhaust/water hose from the fitting on the seacock end or the strainer end so I decided to cut the hose and insert tee with barbs on the straight run and a valve in the center outlet for the purpose of attaching a hose for the antifreeze from a bucket similar to Joe V’s setup. After removing the hose and inserting a piece of garden hose in the seacock end I was able to finish my task of winterizing. Then I went to try to find fittings for the 7/8” hose. None were to be found, just 3/4” or 1” NPT tees and 3/4” or 1” NPT to barbs. The threaded on one end smooth nipples that the hose was attached to are .840” diameter and 3” long. The 7/8” ID hose had 2 clamps on each end compressing it down to the .840” dia. nipples. I have no idea whether this odd arrangement was original or added later. Anyway the plan at this point is to replace the 7/8 wet exhaust hose as it was and buy the strainer cap with the hose fitting already attached ( I found that Defender sells them ) I just have to verify the cap thread is 2-5/16 OD. I will go down there this week and bring my strainer cap with me. Then swap out the cap when winterizing only.
Thanks to all for the input.

Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind
N30U 419
Deep River, CT