I will finally have a new dodger and bimini made this spring for my 30Ultra, with all new framing.
My old dodger was low, and I looked over it most of the time as I stand at the helm a lot of the time. It was inconvenient to have to bend over to fit beneath it to work either of the winches at the bulkhead, or to have to duck when going below. Even after all of these years of being on the boat, I would occasionally bump my head on the frame.
My choice is to have a ‘California’ style dodger made - large windows forward and on the sides for great visibility. It is also much higher so I won’t have to duck (I’m only 5’7"!).
Question to those who have had dodgers made in recent years:
is there a maximum height for the forward frame bar so the sail won’t rub? And from where does one measure? Or is this really dependent on the individual boat/how the sail is cut?
Does reefing present additional complications?
All measuring will take place once the boat is unwrapped and I’ve put the sail back on, but I’d like to avoid any complications that may not be obvious.
I am also having a proper bimini made. Is there a ‘best position’ to secure the frame so the mainsheet doesn’t rub/damage the bimini frame when one is on a broad-reach or running?
It appears (from photos on pbase) that footing the frame near the mainsheet winch, on top of the combing seems to be logical, though these frames seem to have supports (either 1 or 2 bars) directly behind the helm seat on the top of the combing.
For those of you with experience one way or the other with bimini frames, please share your knowledge!
My ideal bimini would be one that I can deploy (open the canvas) easily when needed (i.e. it begins to rain) yet keep collapsed in place when the weather is nice.
Many thanks in advance!
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III
1987 30U 430
Jersey City, NJ
Peter: I can’t praise my bimini/dodger enough. I deliver boats so have a good idea of what works and doesn’t. Mine is a bimini with the ability to zip in pieces as needed to form a dodger. I’m six feet and my head clears the top. I can stand and see perfectly well forward. It’s easy to get in and out of the cockpit and does not interfere with the sheet or winch. My local canvas shop made this for my NS30U and 2 others in my marina. Photos enclosed which show sections of the assembly. I can remove the canvas for racing in less then ten minutes. Some of the photos show the frame. In addition, I have a screen that goes around the whole cockpit. I can take better photos if you need them.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
I feel equally strongly about my dodger, which is a hardtop...a great advantage to be able to stand on it when attaching the sail cover, for example. The Bimini is actually just a Sunbrella extension that snaps onto the aft edge...high enough for me to stand under it, at 6'1". A full enclosure zips to it. All great attributes considering our rainy southeast Alaska climate.
I have a dodger / bimini of which I am very pleased. Provides great shade. It is one of the best features on the boat. I rarely put the dodger down as I have found that it makes no real difference in racing (which we rarely do in any event) and if wind resistance makes a difference in a race, we open the windows. I only put the bimini down once for a race----We lost and I got a sunburn. So likely never again. I had a viewing window added to the bimini to be able to better see the sail and found it very helpful. The framing is structurally fairly strong (Might at least slow down a errant descending wishboom…)
Photos attached.
Jim Stanley
Annie 11 (Chester Nova Scotia) N30U (1987)
Will try to answer your questions base on experience:
Totally agree with Californbia style dodger. Suggest the semi-rigid glass currently available which is optically perfect. I had mine made with a zipper around the middle window for ease in opening and removing this panel. I never touch the other panels.
Each boat is unique in size and each sail is cut differently. You need to measure with the sail raised. Only then will youy hgave the correct size for your boat. Reefing should not be a problem. The sail usually rises a bit when reefed.
Your criteria for a bimini were my criteria. I attach tow photos of PUFF showing where the frame attaches on the coaming. You can have a single strut aft, or two struts closeliy side by side. I have all connections with clevis pins so tehe whole thing goes on and off in 5 minutes. It unfolds in seconds, and can be collapsed juset as quickly. I have a boot on mine to match the dodger. How much you overlap the dodger is a matter of taste. The forward struts secure to the handrails on top of the house with steraps. NO need to drill any fittings here.
When I had mine made, i made up a template with dowels from Home Depot, then went sailing to made sure that nothing interferred with anything else.
Note that yiou cannot turn the sheet winch fuylly with the Bimini in place.
I cannot tell you what a difference having a full enclosure makes. It’s a whole new boat. Be sure to have a “roll bar” installed at the same time to keep the noggin away from the wishbone.
Jim, we are trying to figure out what design for a bimini might work best for us on our N30 that we purchased late last summer. We really liked the looks of yours and were wondering if you might have additional photos or information that would help us when we meet with the canvas folks in a couple of weeks.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Ed Saltmarsh
N30 Classic, Mia Lou
Swansea, MA
Ed: You may want to consider the style we have on our 30U. It is a bimini that extends from the front to the rear. It has over 6 ft headroom and still clears the wishbone. It’s redeeming features are that you can easily zip in the three dodger panels, side and or rear panels. It is most versatile. I even have a screen setup that I occasionally use to completely enclose the cockpit. The nicest part is the ability to not have any dodger in the way of the breeze and still have shade. I’m out of town now but if you want some photos, I can do that upon my return.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS 30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
I have a design similar to Joe’s and wouldn’t change anything about it.
With the dodger panels removed cockpit crew enjoys the breeze while remaining protected from the sun. The full length head room enables the helmsman to see with crouching and those going down below to transit without a head knock. With full enclosure panels in place I get a large sun room and an early jump on the sailing season as well as the opportunity to take the boat out into early December here in the Chesapeake Bay.
Ed Strazzini
Manatee, N30U, #503
Deltaville, Va
I had a new dodger and bimini fabricated, along with all new framing, this season. Though not very tall, I would still knock my head on the dodger frame occasionally, and really didn’t care for looking over the dodger when standing and getting no protection on extra windy days. The old bimini was only useful when docked, moored or anchored.
I wanted great visibility, and protection, so the dodger is mostly ‘glass’ and is now 6’ high. The bimini is 6’4" with a viewing window to see the top of the mast for the windex. The removable connecting piece between the dodger and bimini is almost all ‘glass’ so the forward end of the wishbone and sail-shape can be seen.
Each window can be rolled up in place, or removed entirely.
Attached are a few photos.
Regards,
Peter
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKEWALK III 1987 30U 430
Jersey City, NJ
Consider adding solar panels at the same time to the dodger top. I did this spring and have been very happy with the results. Batteries are always full now–no need to run the engine or use shore power.
I just attached a 4x8 sheet of HDPE from Menards and had windows made for the front and sides. The panels are 100watt each from Renogy.
Consider getting LEXAN front windows.
Optically clear, and you can use binoculars through them.
Just treat them gently…Be careful of scratching.
About the same price as vinyl.
