I am building my 26C in Blender (an open sourced 3D modeling software). I plan on sharing it with anyone that wants it once it is done. Then I can create and see the angles of building a new, much higher, hard dodger as the bump on my head is slowly receding. I have started photogrammetry of it with nearly 800 photos but it takes a while and the computer likes more details for a better model. If anyone has any 3D models they would be willing to share I would love that.
Wouldn’t it be easier to install a padded lining on your existing dodger?
Seriously, be sure and think about sight lines. When standing at my helm, the top and framing and window trim of my dodger completely blocks my view forward. I had to build a short poop deck behind the wheel so I can see over it when maneuvering in the marina. I also have an open-able window in the center of the dodger windshield which I keep open for clear view while seated. Apparently, the forward force on the mast while under sail pitches the boat forward just enough so that I don’t have visibility problems while sailing.
I’ve been looking at all sorts of designs and looking at the sight lines. I am currently looking into the top of the dodger when sitting on a raised, curved seat now. It can comfortably come up about 4-6 inches and then I might be able to get a view when seated, right now it is comically short. Well comically for other people watching me yoga into the boat. I’m 6”2, the guy who built it originally wansn’t
Ah, then it does make sense to raise it so you can see forward while seated. And at 6’2” you probably won’t have the troubles seeing over it that I do. Even standing on my poop deck I am still only about 6’ tall above the original deck level.
Mark Hinneman (@mark_h) has put a great deal of thought into dodger design and I hope he chips in. What I think I’ve learned from conversations with him, plus my own process using my original canvas dodger frame to support a light-duty hardtop dodger with windows is:
The height really has to be customized to the usual helmsperson’s height standing and sitting.
The height is also limited by the position of sail foot and any cover when the sail’s up.
Aesthetically, it’s maybe worthwhile to try to try to set the fore-and-aft and the side-to-side shapes to complement those of the cabintop.
Within those constraints, I personally would recommend angling it slightly downward from the cockpit to forward. This is partly to accommodate the angle of the sail, partly for aesthetics, and partly to increase headroom on the way into the cabin.
If the conditions you sail in permit, it might be worth either moving the whole dodger forward or terminating its aft end closer to the companionway. As you step out of the companionway into the cockpit, your torso angles down and then straightens up. If the dodger is more forward, your chances of clearing it when straightening up improve.
An ideal dodger incorporates handrails on both each side and across the cockpit.
Sticking pipe insulation or a split pool noodle across the end over the cockpit at least softens head knocks, is cheap, and with a little effort doesn’t have to be ugly.
FWIW, IMHO, your mileage may vary.
P.S. I wish I had 3D models to share, but if you’re willing to share yours when done, can I raise my hand and say, “Yes, please”?
Just a thought… are the new hand held 3D scanners able to scan a boat? I know they are using them for doing things like engine installs. …will it fit? Mount design.
For what it’s worth, accepted design guidelines in terms of aesthetics say that straight fore and aft lines like cabin tops should be level, curved lines either fore and aft or athwartships should increase in sheer or camber as they get further above the waterline, and straight vertical lines should lean in from plumb… the right amount….
Utility is important but it’s gotta look right.
Ron, The 3D scanners are amazing and $$$. I would rather spend on some cool toys for the boat instead. There is a cool tool called meshroom that takes your photos and imports it into a 3D model. It just takes time. I already have a really good camera and if you take enough pictures you can get a great result and honestly a better project for no money. That is the route I am going then I will start adding the additional stuff. I set up Bender but again I think it just needs more detail. I am also digitizing my two huge binders of manuals so I can add them to the Raspberry PI that is running my navigation system. Then added an offline chatbot to walk me through repairs. I’m nerdy like that and have embraced the tech. I know that is not for everyone but I am open sourcing the jobs. It should be ready for release next month on my website and I will add the boat as well. $320.00 for a completely new runner of OpenCPN for running my navigation stuff and I am working with the designer of WindNerd - 3D Printed Anemometer Kits to get an open sourced wind kit set up. Should be around $100.00. Then he is doing the coding on attaching that system to NMEA0183. Then it should be a custom install on the masthead. But then the parts are literally dirt cheap to replace. Check it out on Reddit if you are interested in the project designs and talking to the designer.
Paul, I would value that advice much more than your 2 pennies! I was actually thinking about angling the hardtop up a bit but that makes more sense to keep it flat for standing vision. I think I will move it forward but I am also undecided about having a lip over the rainscreens. To go flush or not is the question. Then I like the idea of another zippered bimini going all the way back. I want to have an completely enclosed aft cockpit. With removable sides, top etc. I want it ideally just high enough that a whisker of the sail will fly over the dodger when tacking. Smooth will be the lateral aspects to prevent any snags.
Paul, I think you have done the exact build of my dreams. Lets go sailing! How long did it take you? I honestly would love to get some photos and dementions so I can copy it exactly. Only change would be SS railings. All the teak on mine is rotten. Almost all removed now. I no longer have a workshop so I will have to do the work in my back yard tent but that is doable. I have most of the tools still. I have never missed my workshop as much as I am now.
Exactly won’t work for you because Sandpiper is a 30U but if you are in Vancouver you are welcome to come and look at it. Just a ferry ride away in Cowichan Bay.
It took me a couple of months off and on, designing as I went. Doing it again would be faster but less fun…
I was expecting it to appear in the upcoming Winter INA Update, However, I just double-checked and was surprised to discover that it got bumped by space limitations and production delays. (The printer we’ve been using for years passed away, his company consequently shut down, and there have been delays finding a replacement.)
If anyone has problems with the direct link above, the article can also be found at www.Nonsuch.org by opening the MEMBERS tab and clicking on MEMBERS STORIES.
Paul’s advice and Mark’s differ in some respects. In general I’ve found that when very smart people disagree, they’re both right – just in different circumstances.
