Is it normal for the oil in a W13 to turn black immediately after an oil change? I just bought the boat but it sat for a number of years. I’m tempted to change it a couple more times in the next month, just to see what happens…
Randy Gadikian
Nonsuch 26C Paisley Moon? formerly Bittersweet
Buffalo, NY
Are you at RCR yet?
Carl Engel
El Faro Verde #169
Baltimore
Hi, I have had 3 Nonsuches and all of them turned the oil black shortly after a oil change. I was told the old Westerbekes were not environmentally friendly.
I didn’t worry about it but usually changed oil every fifty hours.
If you have some old oil left, I would try to have it tested
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests-price-list.php
(standard analysis costs $28)
I would change the oil regularly until you like the look of it, and keep a careful log of what you do and your observations.
Finally I recommend listening to our diesel experts rather than to me.
It is normal for oil to turn black very quickly in diesel engines, it’s the nature of the beast so yo speak
Reg Coombs
1985, N26C #171
Summerwind
St Jones Within
Newfoundland
Yes the new oil in my W13 turns black immediately.
There is a thick layer of black sludge in the bottom of the oil pan, I have to poke a wire up the drain hose all the way into the oil pan to get the old hot oil to drain out. I get the engine nice and hot before the oil change.
A few years ago tried some light oil in a second change that was meant to dissolve the sludge. The new oil was black as soon as I started the engine again so no difference. It still helps to poke a wire up the drain tube to get the old oil out faster.
Change the oil and filter and don’t worry about it. It’s probably best to let the sludge just lie there.
BTW when I bought the boat the previous owner had let the yard do the maintenance. He said the oil was changed every year. The bilge had quite a lot of engine oil in it from a broken oil pressure sender. The first oil change I did was very difficult as nothing would come out the drain tube, then some oil mixed with water and some yellow streaks of some goo eventually came out. This engine seems to run just fine.
Tom
26C #28
NorthStar
Peneteang
Has anyone tried synthetic?
Tom you could try filling up the sump with varsol or diesel fuel and drain it out, do this a few times and that should get a great deal of that sludge out.
Reg Coombs
“Summerwind”
1855 , N26C #171
St Jones Within
Newfoundland
I concur with Reg. Gas engines don’t do this but diesels certainly will.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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This past winter, I submitted an oil sample to Blackstone laboratories having been using Rotella 15W40 for the past 13 years. I then changed the oil and began using Rotella Synthetic. This January I will submit a report again and see if there is any change (for better or worse) in the results. After I receive that report, I will make it available on the discussion list and possibly submit it to “Update”.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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This past winter, I submitted an oil sample to Blackstone laboratories having been using Rotella 15W40 for the past 13 years. I then changed the oil and began using Rotella Synthetic. This January I will submit a report again and see if there is any change (for better or worse) in the results. After I receive that report, I will make it available on the discussion list and possibly submit it to “Update”.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
PS – This W-27 with over 2,000 engine hours does not leak at all. The oil is changed twice a year and in a years time might go through a quart.
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I like your oil weight selection, Joe.
I tried 10w-30 a couple of times, and the engine sounds like a machine gun. Also tried some 10W-30 synthetic with the same results. Somewhere along the line I read that this weight selection for a diesel running with summer time heat levels is a bit on the light side.
I approached a knowledgeable diesel mechanic what his thoughts were regarding oil selections. He went in his stock room and pulled out a gallon of 15W-40. It simply says, diesel oil by Rotella.
I tried it last year, and I’m sticking with this. The engine sounds great.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26C 099 W21
Penetanguishene On
I have used Shell 15/40 T6 synthetic for two years now and according to the Blackstone Oil Analysis the wear numbers are way down and the viscosity is within norms at 70 hours . Regular Rotella was toast at 50 hours and wear numbers were measurably higher.
The engine runs much smoother and still starts on the first go. No plug heat needed. No leaks or oil burn. I can never get more drain more than 2.5 qts of the 4 qts at a time due to the angle of the engine on boats with prop shafts vs sail drives as well the central location of the drain plug does not help.. So I do two changes a couple of weeks apart before the winter. This inability to fully drain the engine means the oil is always back.
I use Mobile One transmission oil as well.
Hi Thor,
Any special procedures to convert to T6 from regular Rotella 15W40?
Bill Baxter
Persistence NS30 #507
Penetang
Thor,
Are you are saying that because the engine is inclined so steeply in older Nonsuch 26 hulls one can only change a bit more than half the oil at a time? I did not know that. How do we get rid of the crud that builds up in the bottom of the oil pan?
Randy
NS26C Paisley Moon, formerly Bittersweet
No special procedure is need as all She'll products are compatible
Yes that seems to be the case but sailing and the motion of the boat I except does a good job of preventing sludge. Just the 100 hour interval recommended by Westerbeke is too long according to oil tests I have seen. 50 hours is about it for regular 15/40 Rotella