Does anyone have a source for porthole screens ? I tried my local screen and glass shop that is making a new Lexan engine instrument cover for $20 but they cannot do screen or make new frames. Thank you
Steve O’Malley
ANU N26C #172
Marblehead MA
BinnacleHalifax
Cedric - Single Malt
26C #207
Chester NS
My ports are from Beckson; ordered a bunch of spare lenses and gaskets and screens from them last year. A task this year is to re-bed ports, and replace screens and lenses.
Yours may be different - see what it says on the frames.
JohnS
NS26C 046
Kingston ON
Mine are Atkins & Hoyle. $34 ea. from their website. Looks like they are CNC cut ‘frames’ and then screen stretched and glued over the frame. I had to drill new holes for the retainer screws as the old ones were some kind of cast plastic with formed clips.
No complaints on the replacements considering they are custom made. It would have taken me longer to fabricate something and wouldn’t be as clean. These should last a very long time.
Regards,
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “Quickbeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
If the frames are okay, I just cut out the old screen and glued new fiberglass screening over the top.
Joe
26C
Sea Horse
I bought them two years ago from The Binnacle. I just looked up my order and searched their site both by name and sku finding nothing. However I can give you the manufacturer’s name I think.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay B.C.
Interesting subject. I lacked time and was anxious to take care of the beat up screens in the porthole frames. I had some screening laying around, I did what Joe did. I understand that screen frames may differ from boat to boat. In my case, the frame was removed by opening, from the inside, the porthole. There, I had access to some screws to release the frame. Got rid of the bad screen and cleaned up the frame. I used Titebond III and smeared on the inside surface of the frame. Laid screen over it for and hour or so, trimmed the excess off and reinstalled. From outside you need to get very close to see that the screen is not in the channel designed for it. From the inside you see no indicator of what I did. From the inside with porthole open you may see, if you looked hard, some screening on the screen frame. Benefits are, it’s a cheap fix and takes very little time to replace. I made a small kit that includes the screen, glue and Exacto knife for trimming. If someone kicks a hole in one, I can replace it during the same sail. Benefits of Titebond III is that it does not stick to the aluminum frame real well but good enough for the task at hand. When needing to remove screening, it’ll peel right off.
Cheers,
Butch
Butch Garren
Nonsuch 30, #196
Whiskers II,
Solomons, MD
A challenge for crazy glue.
A did a search under “Viking port screen” but the only relevant hit I got was Binnacle’s site where they said no product available.
The Atkins and Hoyle are $34 USD each, but you know they will fit.
Defender carries the 12"x5" Beckson screens which I believe are the same size as the Atkins & Hoyle that were fitted to a large number of Nonsuches.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=3190646 About $17.00 USD each.
Here is a link to a page on how to make port screens. The video is silly but it shows inexpensive and simple to make screens. It uses a cheap craft foam to make the frames. I have not tried them so can’t say how well they stand up but I may give it a try since the frames on my screens have all got cracks in them.
Mark Powers
La Reina 26C
Vancouver, B.C.
- Buy a roll of screening material from Home Depot or a hardware store.
- Cut out screening material to fit the port
- Use double sided tape or a glue gun to hold the screen in place.
- Buy me dinner with part of the money you save.
I believe Hammerhead in Toronto will sell you what you want or fix your screens properly.
www.hhns.ca
Ernie A. in Toronto
Oh Mike I like this idea and will try it.
The original screens eventually broke because the screen and frame became too brittle.
The new (10 years) binnacle screens also became brittle and cracked and are now mostly useless.
I 3D printed a few and these work well but don’t look good. Need to make a better design.
Tom
I had the original plastic ones that faded in the uv light and became brittle and broke up. I ended up buying a sheet of thin aluminium (can't recall the thickness, but flat sheet used for signs) and with a dremel cut out the equivalent size and glued on some mozzie screen and they have remained for 15 years or so. Unfortunately the screen retention tabs/hold in place locks, were on the original screen frame and I couldn’t recreate those, but I can still keep the newly created screens in place by friction (didn’t cut it straight) or other means. Tim.
Tim Austin
Mistoffelees
Nonsuch 33 Hull #32
Cayman Islands.
To hold my replacement screens (which also lack the original tabs), I made clips from some thin strips of aluminum, about 1/16th inch thick, about 1/4th inch wide, and each about 3/4ths to 1 inch long.
I bent them in the shape like this: " /_ ". slipped the V-shaped parts over each screen frame, two on top and two on the bottom, with the flat parts aimed out toward the boat’s exterior. I then put the frames in place, went outside and bent the horizontal parts over the little vertical flange that goes around the circumference of the ports. (That’s the same flange that the retention tabs in the original screens clipped over.) That bent each tab into an “N” shape,with one of the angles over the screen and the other over the flange. Holds the screens on just fine.
– Bob
Solar Wind
Nonsuch 26C #143
