Portlight construction and replacing gasket questions

I replaced the gaskets in my 8 Atkins & Hoyle portholes last summer without removing the portholes. This includes two 25” long portholes and six 12 “ portholes. A little awkward working upside down but not too difficult. Do not use excessive adhesive as it will simply squeeze out of the gasket channel molding. I did not pre-cut the gasket to match the channel length, instead I squared the starting end of the gasket with an exacto knife, installed the gasket into the adhesive and made the cut for the finishing end of the gasket when an inch or so from the starting end, using a small wood block held in-place as a cutting surface. This avoids stretching a too short gasket and ensures it’s seated at the corners. Sometimes it took two people, one to hold the block and another to hold the gasket, and make the cut. You want the gasket ends the touch; I put a small amount of adhesive on each end to complete the bond, then closed the porthole so the adhesive dries under pressure.

Ken Dakin
NS 33 #7
Sashay
Kingston ON

Thanks for the tips Ken. What did you use to clean out the old adhesive? Acetone?

Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30u#343
Galesville, MD

Hi Ken, what were the dimensions of the gasket material and where did you find it? I would also be curious to know what you used as an adhesive?

Thanks…Ron

Ron & Diane Schryver
“Alpha Waves” 1987 NS30U #393
Georgian Bay Midland ON

If my recollection is correct, I scraped/ chipped out the adhesive, there wasn’t much. I may have wiped the gasket channel with a solvent like lacquer thinner, let that flash off, then applied the new adhesive sparingly followed by the gasket. I did all portholes (and two overhead hatches)in one day but don’t recall great use of solvent.
I recall looking at an Atkins & Hoyle YouTube video on replacing hatch gaskets.

Ken Dakin
NS 33 #7
Sashay
Kingston ON

.