As I was winterizing my boat the other day, I noticed a bit of oil at the engine side (aft end) of the raw water pump… is this because the shaft seal at the flange side is failing?
I’ve never seen this before. I’ve replaced pumps when they were leaking seawater, but have never seen it leak oil.
I put this pump in as a replacement several years ago, but do not recall how long ago. It was a new, not rebuilt pump.
The rebuild kit from Westerbeke is now up over $200US. A new pump is now over $500US.
How difficult is it to replace the seal? I’ve read previously that a special tool is needed to press in the seal… is this correct, or is there another way to do it?
If I can just purchase the seal and press it in myself (assuming it is easy enough to remove the leaking seal) I would rather do that.
Input/guidance from those who have done this before?
Thanks,
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30U 430
Jersey City, NJ
AFAIK there is no standing oil behind the raw water pump. At worst the area has a mist of oil when the engine is running. That would lead me to suspect the gasket between the pump and the block casting. I think oil could actually rest in that area and gradually leak if there is a small gap. Have you checked the bolts for tight?
Just a guess…
It could be just the gasket between the block and pump flange. As someone said, check those mounting nuts for tightness. If you have to remove the pump for seal replacement and are not comfortable doing it, take the pump, buy the seals and have your local garage do it for you. I don’t think they’re hard to do, but, then I’m a mechanic
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
On the raw water pump of my Universal M35, I had oil dripping out of the bleed hole. There were two seals on the shaft. One seal was on the water side of the bleed hole. The other seal was on the engine crankcase, oil, side.
I replaced the seals and bearing correcting the oil leak.
I think the best course of action will be to pull the raw water pump, inspect, look for where the oil is originating, and what shape the gasket and pump seals/bearings are in…
I will post photos and update when I have done so.
Rebuilding these things is simple and cheap. And I am sure you can find a pump rebuilder in your area, ask at auto parts stores and independent garages for a lead.
Nothing special about these pumps they are either Johnson, or Sherwood pumps.
Follow-up - here are some photos of the pump itself, as well as the engine mount opening. This is the 48080 pump on a Westerbeke 27A.
Does anyone seen anything I should be concerned about, particularly on the engine mount section?
Is there something I should do to the engine mount before reattaching the rebuilt water pump?
(just a footnote - I’ve had no water flow/temperature issues (except when the intake sucked in weeds or a jellyfish) - the engine has always operated at a steady 180 F)
Thank you,
'Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30U 430
Jersey City, NJ
When you reassemble, use some grease on both sides of the gasket for the pump to block mount.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Thanks Joe for the grease tip,
Thanks Peter for the excellent photos,
I hope that beautiful bronze cast pump gets some new rubber soon.
Brian
Boat-less in New England
