Greetings all. I just finalized buying a 1984 Nonsuch 22 hull #12. When I get it in the water in the next month it will be my one bedroom apartment during weekdays when I’m three hours from the family and I’m go home on weekends. A little cramped but it will be an interesting experiment.
Overall, the boat is in good shape, but I definitely need to replace hoses, and some thru hull fittings. I’ve already ripped out the old head and black water tank in favor of a composting toilet to buy more space. Need to install shore power too.
While snooping around, I found the attached picture of the engine water intake valve and the backing looks pretty shot. Can someone please tell me what is the best replacement? backing material for the old plywood?
G10 is the best choice but any marine plywood is plenty good. That clamp was past its best before date quite some time ago. Also, the grey fitting just past the Marelon shut off should be replaced with bronze. Ahhh, boat project creep, gotta love it!
I did the same Liveaboard during the week thing many years ago. Ended up making the trip home mid week after a while due to pure boredom.
Next question, I am installing an automatic bilge pump. The propane system was removed years ago but the thru hull remains. If I route the hose from the pump to the propane thru hull with a loop going up to the deck to prevent water coming in, would that be enough to keep water flowing in while sailing or should I just put a valve on it for when sailing? The automatic bilge pump is generally just to deal with minor water at the marina.
I’d be hesitant to use the drain in your propane locker because the locker is isolated from the boat. The drain in your propane locker many be still providing a way for water to drain from the locker even though you don’t have propane.
Another consideration is using failsafe designs for important stuff like bilge pumps. The outlet for the bilge pump is supposed to be above waterline. A valve on the outlet would lead to failure if accidentally left closed.
Enjoy the 2026 sailing season. And good luck with your experiment.
Rob…
You can buy marine-specific synthetic board like G10, but I’ve just used PVC trim board (like Azek or a generic brand). The key is to have something that is rot-proof and that will compress slightly. Also, while you can’t go wrong with bronze, you can get Marelon hose fittings. Regardless of what you choose, when you dry-fit, make sure that your not bottoming out the fitting. When I resealed one of my original thru-hull and hose fittings, I found that the original was bottoming out in the thru-hull and not making a secure seal. It didn’t leak, but it certainly could have. I just trimmed a few millimeters off the hose fitting.
Dan W.
The saga continues. All the thru hulls have been replaced and I am fiberglassing over two thru hull areas.
Can anyone confirm if this pump is a Whale Gusher Mk2? Since it is a 1984 boat and the inlet & outlet are on opposite sides I don’t think it is a Mk3. I want to make sure before I order a rebuild kit. The head sink works fine, the galley does not.
Next question. I am going up in a bucket truck to the top of the mast to change the windex, the aerial, grease the halyard pulley (is there a cotter pin?), replace the topping lift, and the replace masthead light.
Can anyone tell me what I will need to have on hand before I start? I don’t want to have the bucket truck here and not have everything I need as far as tools or any special equipment.
If someone has been to the top and has tips it would be very helpful.
Christopher,
Seems like you might have enough accumulated maintenance to justify pulling the mast and working on the ground. This would provide opportunity for a proper mast inspection.
Look up “halyard sheave lube” for some suitable spray options. I would not disassemble while aloft. Spray non-petroleum lubricant and work it in.
For the masthead light, there is a good chance the connections will be corroded. Bring your marine electrical kit. Be prepared to cut, splice and seal.
Windex should be easy if you get the same brand as is already there. The Davis Sport that I used on other boats was easy if the base was in good shape… undo the set screw and slide the new one in… and retighten the set screw. Just make sure you have a small screwdriver.
On my NS33 the topping lift is attached with a stainless shackle. Some folks wire them so they can’t work loose others us cotter rings. Bring wrench to loosen pin, wire cutter to release wire and wire or cotter ring to use to secure pin.
Accomplishing all those things in one trip, would be cause for celebration for me. Seems like on old boats surprises lurk behind every corner.
In the long run, it might be more cost effective to get a Bosun’s Chair, than hire a bucket truck. With the chair you move with the mast so you have the illusion that your workspace is still.
For the diesel to start but it isn’t cooking properly and I get the high temperature alarm. It is a westerbeke W13 with about 830 hours so my assumption is the thermostat is shot or the fresh water pump needs replacing. I do wish it was easier to access.
Oh yes, water is definitely coming out. One of the first things I did was change out the impeller since the one in place was 10 years old. Since I’m on the hard, I have a hose with a bucket and I suck water into the strainer from the bucket. The flow is exactly what you would expect needing more water if the RPMs go up and less if it’s at idle. The problem is the temperature keeps rising and shortly after hitting 180° it doesn’t take long to hit over 240° and the hot water alarm goes off.
This morning, I’m going to change out the thermostat and hope that solves the problem but if it doesn’t then all my research leads me to believe the next most likely is the fresh water pump.
If it’s the fresh water pump it is likely to be obvious. The bearings will be the problem and the pulley will either be visibly wobbly or seized. Thermostat sounds more likely.
