Hi All, I purchased my 1984 30U last summer and upon launching this year I realized that one of two leaks was coming from the top of the seacock under the galley sink (the other being from the rudder tube issue which was helpfully included in the new owners guide….). The leaking seacock is an old gate style valve which seems stuck open even when fully tightened, and with the boat now hauled out again, I plan to replace it. However, I can’t rotate the whole assembly to remove it because the fiberglass molding to starboard of it is too close. (Did they build the boat around this seacock?) Am I missing something or am I going to need to cut the molding out of the way to unscrew the old seacock? Anyone else been through this who can give a pointer or recommend a seacock that will fit in this space? Here is a picture of the current seacock (after sliding the pipe clamp up the hose). Thank you!
Have you tried a crow’s foot wrench on that? I had a similar situation- but on the seawater gate valve for my saildrive - which I replaced with a ball valve and extender pipe to make it easier to change it or service in future.
Thanks Greg. If I understand what you are suggesting correctly, the hexagonal sections on the bottom and top of the seacock don’t appear to spin independently of the wide part of the valve. I am able to rotate the whole thing by hand, it’s just that I can’t complete a single counterclockwise turn because that white fiberglass wall to the right blocks it.
I believe you are saying you can rotate the gate valve by hand and the thru hull is secure.
If that is true
1) Take a saw to the gate valve
2) Saw off the entire stuffing box assembly
3) Remove the valve body
Get two 45 degree street elbows and a short nipple
Assemble in this order
1) Seacock
2) Elbow
3) Elbow
4) Short Nipple
5) New Ball Valve
I think the resulting offset might do for you
I bet the thru hull and valve were put in prior to the inside stuff.
Fran
I did not notice the seacock was nylon
If that is so get rid of it
That makes the removal process easy
From the outside
1) Get rid of the seacock head by any suitable means
2) Remove the rest from the inside
3) Install a suitable replacement
(I prefer Bronze Marlin is not subject to electrolysis)
4) Go back to steps 1-5
Fran
Not sure how a gate valve got there but it’s not at all appropriate on a boat, both from a materials and installation standpoint. My 1984 30U #244 has marelon composite seacocks, which have stood the test of time fantastically.
It looks like somebody replaced the original components. The nylon thru hull which is not reinforced and approved for below waterline use has straight threads. The brass gate valve has tapered threads, which may explain your leakage. Brass valves also have the potential to corrode and develop holes which can sink your boat!
Do whatever you have to for now, some polysulfide sealant and a few wraps of tape could stop your lead. The next time you are hauled out, I strongly recommend replacing this with proper bronze or marelon marine components.
Seeing as you are hauled out the easy way would be to cut through the plastic through hull, which should also be replaced.
That’s definitely another sign that it should be replaced with a marine grade Marelon or bronze thru-hull and seacock.
If a survey was done, this should’ve been flagged by your surveyor. This kind of installation is a well-known source of the kind of leaks you suffered.
Like a propane line with a tee inside the boat rather than the propane locker (also still found on some of the boats), this was something that used to be considered ok but is now called out as unacceptable by newer boat construction codes.
-- Bob
Thank you all for the feedback so far. It seems like the majority view is that, even if I were able to find a way to remove the leaking valve body on its own, the through-hull (which we think is nylon) is just another ticking time bomb, so since I am hauled out already I should replace both the through-hull and the seacock with marelon or bronze replacements. Seems diligent. No, the survey report did not note these issues… Looking increasingly like the summer is a wash, but it is the first summer of being able to work on it and address issues so… there’s that. Also if any of the folks from the Nyack Nonsuch cluster have any preferred boat technicians, I’m in the market!
Thank you, Bob! Incidentally, mine also still has the propane T which is another project in the works (the rusted steel tanks are removed and I plan to replace the whole system aside from the stove itself).
About the stove… If you have the original HillRange stove without thermocouples on the top burners, it also no longer passes inspection and is increasingly being flagged by surveyors. …and while you are looking at propane lines, if the tee hasn’t been dealt with it is likely that you still have the propane locker drain that on many of our boats drops below the outlet through hull level . It should be corrected as well so it can’t trap water.
And… What are your other thru hulls, old gate valves? Marelon? Maybe consider replacing them too?
And inspect the hose and fittings to outboard propane locker vent while dealing with the propane lines. Mine leaked until I replaced the hose.
Good luck.
If the option is not to sail at all, you could replace the valve and through-hull, then launch, day-sail and enjoy the boat this summer without using the propane. Inconvenient, but better than not sailing at all. It will give you the opportunity to learn the boat really well while still in local waters and you’ll probably find some operational projects to make next winter more productive.