I have a badly rusted shaft coupling on my Yanmar 3YM. Any tips tricks how to get to it other than hire a vertically challenged mechanic with the strength of Hercules and patience of Job?
Lots of sympathy here, not much experience I can offer in the way of advice.
My N26C had panels cut in the quarterberths that allowed some access to the sides of its Westerbeke 21 engine. Perhaps panels cut further aft would give some improved access to the coupling?
Even so, that doesn’t deal with the fundamental problem of removing a coupling with all that rust. That isn’t a DIY job that I’d know how to tackle.
You may have to haul out to have the work done by a mechanic with access to a lot of equipment, which may be a good thing because that amount of rust on the coupling raises questions about how your prop shaft has been affected.
So, back to sympathies without much real help to offer.
Sorry,
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Bob thanks! I’m tempted to make the cockpit floor removable!! She’s a nice boat but there was little (or no) thought given to engine access. It’s really too bad!
Hi Roger,
I remember from another post that Tranquility is a new boat for you. Congratulations !
Like Bob, I don’t have any curative advice, and I agree with his assessment that it wouldn’t be a DYI job ( for me).
I’m starting my second year with Soave. In my first season I found it useful to dig into observations like this one to try an understand the big picture.
Looking at your photo, a couple investigative thoughts come to mind.
- The rust is either due to a present condition or a past ( since resolved ) condition. Good to know which before trying to address the rust. The damage looks like prolonged exposure to a salty spray… maybe light spray while under power.
- The black dust on your transmission housing seems excessive. What is it ? Maybe a clue ? Maybe unrelated ?
- On the port aft engine mount bracket, looks like there are two abandoned bolt holes. Is the engine mounted securely ? Was there something mounted there previously that handled salt water ?
- Any suspicious vibrations while running the engine ?
Good luck to you and Tranquility.
Bob,
I don’t believe the PO was into the boat the way I am. I have asked some questions but have not gotten any good answers.
I have yet to start the engine. I’m working on it.
I don’t have a good idea yet about the rust. It may be old or new.
The dust is that horrible dried out crumbly foam insulation I took all out.
The PO had the transmission replaced. God only knows how that was done.
The engine is secure. There was a rusty chunk of metal about the size of a saucer beneath the exhaust mixer that I took out.
At least I’m a small person otherwise I would really have to hire someone. Which I hate doing and can ill afford.
Will keep you posted and thanks for your interest.
Roger
Roger,
If I remember correctly you should be able to climb into your cockpit lazerett to access the shaft coupling. My experience was with a 30C with a Westerbeke 27 that I was considering so the shaft bearing was on the cabin side but the gentleman that did the
Survey disappeared into it for a while when we were under motor power. The question that arises is why do you need to take it apart? There are a number of spray on penetrating oils and such to help if it becomes necessary. Are you removing the prop shaft?
Brian
Hi Roger,
The crumbly insulation issue a popular topic in the diesel workshop last fall. Several owners brought multiple questions.
The mechanics that presented at the workshop indicated it is common with boats of our vintage, and also said the dust sometimes restricted engine air intake enough to affect combustion. Removal is a job they “encouraged” owners to tackle because it is slow, tedious, and dirty, but doesn’t require much skill.
We recorded the workshop… if you are interested.
For me the best take-away was what the mechanics said about working with customers. They like customers that share accurate history and observations, because it makes diagnosing problems less time consuming. Labor rates in our area are close to $200/hr so cutting to the punch is a win-win for both customer and yard.
( CLICK HERE ) to view the video.
( CLICK HERE ) for a summary of the topics covered.
Not addressing the cause but a couple of thoughts about what you might try.
The rust is more likely an issue with bolt removal than with the shaft / coupling. If so the bolts might (not highly confident) respond to liberal application of Kroil or the like, maybe with some heat from a torch (not simultaneously.)
Maybe my best advice would be to just split the nuts off and bang the bolts out. Google nut splitter. With the limited access this might be my first choice.
Then you can try a puller on the coupling. Hopefully it’s not too frozen on the shaft.
Rob,
Thanks for reposting that video made at the diesel workshop in SHM, Stratford.
It gave me to appreciate the effort you took to make it.
Thanks, and it’s a must see.
I just wish you could have swung that camera around the room to see who was
asking the questions.
I got to replay a nice memory,
Thanks again
Brian
Oh! and Gary your a rockstar.
- check the health of the zinks, or maybe there are none? Should be one on the shaft just forward of the strut.
Getting the bolts and the set screws out will be the first problem. Second is to get the coupling off the shaft. Usual advice is to pull the shaft back insert a less than 1 inch outside diameter socket in the center and then two suitable longer bolts to press the shaft out of the coupling. Or you may have to cut the shaft and replace it.
Tom
26C #28