I’ve got a 30C with cracked handrails on both sides. I suspect they are beyond repair and will need to be replaced. Can you buys these teak handrails ready made or do they need to be custom fabricated?
Here’s a few photo to show the condition. I’m a new owner in Chicago so any thoughts, suggestions or sources would be helpful.
Roger
Teak handrails are generally pretty easy to come by. My local chandleries carry them in a variety of lengths, and I assume that the distance between the feet are pretty standard.
For what it’s worth, I see that Amazon carries some https://www.amazon.com/s?k=teak+handrails+for+boat&crid=33JD34U885XNH&sprefix=teak+hand%2Caps%2C66&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_9
as does West Marine. https://www.westmarine.com/whitecap-teak-handrails-P012482600.html?queryID=undefined&objectID=12482600&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US
but seriously, support your local chandlery.
Having said that, if you are reasonably handy, you may be able to fabricate them for far less money (but probably more time) than you can purchase them. I also found that fabricating my own allowed me to make them whatever diameter I like, rather than the more standard (and to my mind, flimsy) diameter my boat came with. A larger diameter (I use ~1") may also be easier to grasp.
Brian
SV Serenity
Nonsuch Nereus #003
Pax River, MD
Roger,
My 1990 30U had badly worn teak handrails. They were not only ugly but also a significant safety concern when moving about the deck.
I tried to remove them and they cracked like yours. I tried to repair them with epoxy but it was hopeless. I looked into prefabricated handrails but had no luck. I found a shipwright in Toronto area that would make them to No such spec’s but shipping was too difficult There is a company who will fabricate stainless steel handrails but I wanted teak.
It is possible to make your own with some decent carpentry skills but the teak lumber was $650 for the single board and I don’t trust myself enough to not screw it up.
I ended finding a local shipwright that was willing to do my work. I took my old broken up handrails to him and duplicated them. I then did the finish work and he installed them afterwards. It was not cheap ($1800), but The outcome is 100% perfect and I am very happy with it.
https://www.seefeldboatworks.com/
I don’t think I would have been as happy with Plasteak or stainless steel, but I know those have some advantages.
Hope this helps,
Steve Hall
NS30U
Suttons Bay, Michigan
Roger: I would be nice if you signed each post like mine -
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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[/details]My first thought, if you are handy with tools, would be to cut off the damaged areas and glue on some roughly shaped blocks of teak. The blocks would then be shaped to match the originals.
Be sure to roughen the glue surfaces to get a strong joint. For insurance, some stainless dowels could be inserted into the finished repair.
It would be a pleasant winter job , if you live in a cold climate.
John Barbour
Nature 26U
Toronto
Same thing happened to my 30C. I had a friend who is a finish carpenter replace them. I will send pics tomorrow or Friday when I go to the boat. The teak was very expensive—um 5 to 6 hundred dollars. Before we got the new handrails on, I slipped and one of the exposed screw cut my hand. It was just a graze but it could have been bad. There was also some compression in the cabin roof core at the handrails that had to be dealt with. The new handrails are beautiful and sturdy and safe!
Or you could replace the broken section only with a shorter piece from Fisheries Supply if it was a close match.
Brian Cayer
Spirit~Wind
N30U 419
Westbrook, Ct
You might see if the stock handrails sold by Whitecap fit: https://www.whitecapmarineproducts.com/collections/teak-handrails-cleats
Another possibility to consider is synthetic teak. I put the 1 & 3/8th inch handrails on my previous Nonsuch for a lot less than real teak and no need for varnishing or other maintenance. Being more flexible, they’re also easier to install. As delivered, they look like a coarse-grained somewhat shiny teak. If you sand in one direction with 40-grit, you can make them look like fine-grained, fresh teak. They’re sold by PlasTeak: https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/custom-boat-trim.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
My cabin top handrails are currently off and in my garage for refinishing. Some idjit attached them with only zinc plated steel screws, most of which are still in the wood. I actually considered replacing them because of the screw extraction nightmare and because the bases are discolored. But they are quite noticeably curved to match the curve of the cabin top and I doubt that an off-the-shelf replacement will match the curve. So I guess my next option is to shift them about 3/8" forward and redrill all of the screw holes.
In your case, Roger, and if yours are also curved you might at least consider John’s idea of just replacing the damaged wood. If you do, please remember that teak is very oily and you must de-grease it thoroughly before gluing or it will just separate. John also suggested reinforcing the glue joint with dowels. This is a very good idea, not only because of the glue joint but also because of the grain alignment of the mounting part of these rails. I think he suggested stainless steel, but even teak dowels would probably be adequate. I wouldn’t use other, more rot-prone woods as they will be buried too deep to inspect. You can wait until the glue is cured where you’ve added wood, then drill and glue in the dowel be it wood or stainless.
It looks like the wood broke because someone was habitually using the handrails as steps or foot braces. Not a good idea for the currently obvious reason.
When re-attaching them you will need to bed them in something. I’m partial to Sikaflex 291, but there’s a strong contingent of butyl lovers in this group. My rails appear to have been set in butyl and I wonder if it was adequate to keep the water out or if those mild steel screws were just doomed from the start. I’ll be looking into it further before re-attaching my rails and maybe the butyl lovers will chime in here and help us both out.