Thoughts on this valve? It’s on my fresh water intake on the engine. Doesn’t look very marine-grade to me.
Bob Gehrman
NS30U #396 “QuickBeam”
Baltimore, Maryland
Having followed the recent Racor Filter saga- I doubt if this “Plastic” valve would be acceptable to be used in the engine space by several surveyors
Safe Sailng
Cedric
Single Malt
26 C. #207
Chester Nova Scotia
Get a Marlon valve. That looks a plumbing valve and if so will do a great job sinking the boat .
Marelon is a trade name owned by Forespar. The Trudesign thru hull valve assembly is glass filled nylon just like Marelon.
I have some Forespar marelon valves on the boat. They turn very hard even after lubricating with Forespar Marelube. The Trudesign valves work very easily without additional lubrication after three summers installed.
The Trudesign system is very easy to install and attains the ABYC 500 pound side load rating so they will not shear off if hit from the side. They work with the existing plywood back originally installed in the boat.
Hello Bob
This looks like a nice new bronze ball valve but this valve would have the NPT threads which are tapered. The through hulls are not tapered NPS threads. It means that the valve only catches a few threads and doesn’t screw down far enough to meet the 500 lb ABYC side force.
There was a thread here last winter about ball valve through hulls. Mine were all bronze plumbing type, were still in perfect condition and worked well, (no visible corrosion fresh water) but because of the tapered thread, are not meant for this application.
Your bronze valve is definitely a better valve than the stock one your boat came with but the plastic Marelon/Trudesign valves are meant for the application and don’t corrode. Your bronze valve has a chrome plated ball and may not close when you want it to.
Tom
I agree with Ward, the Truedesign makes a great thru hull, ABYC approved. The valve slides into the load bearing collar to qualify for the 500 lb test. While you are at it replace those hoses with ones rated for below the waterline. By the way if you take apart the Marelon valves you will find 2 o-rings, the problem with many of the Marelon not opening and closing easily usually relates to the parts being assembled too tightly. Lube everything up, check the o-rings, and reassemble with caulk slightly less tight, valves should work much more easily.
Steve,
Thanks for the tip on the Forespar valves. I’ll look at mine closely this winter.
I think that these valves look excellent and they seem to comply with all sorts of regulators. However, Cedric has raised an interesting point - would they pass muster in the hot confines of the “engine room” ?
Opinions ?
Ernie A. in Toronto
Sorry - To clarify, I’m referring to the “Trudesign” valve.
Ernie A. in Toronto
Ernie,
Here is the link to the specification sheet. The sheet specifically indicates that these valves may be used in engine rooms.
And right you are, Ward. Thanks !!
(Not that I have an engine room to worry about with an N22 O/B)
Ernie A. in Toronto
I opened a Marlon that had been closed for 15 years, worked like a charm. But as mentioned they can be hard if not properly adjusted.
Better idea to work the valve periodically just to be sure.
Yes they can become rigid as was the case with Good News this past season . I removed the Marlon Valve and disassembled to examine . There were some particles of silicone on the valve ball . Silicone caulk had been used by previous owner instead of Teflon tape .
On reassembly instead of joining the two components very hard I backed off say a Quarter turn before the handle moved freely.
I then water pressure tested the assembly when closed to ensure no leakage .
Bob Jenkins
Toronto