Does anyone know the length of the topping lift line for a 26C? My handbook says 31 feet but that doesn’t seem right as it runs 4 times thru blocks, then the full length of the wishbone then down the mast back to the cockpit. I measure at least 80 feet.
How long would a good safety line be for the aft end of the wishbone? I’m thinking 43-45 inches depending on where to attach the bottom end.
What is a Blooper halyard and Blooper sheet?
Thanks,
Ed Miller
“Good Medicine”
NS 26C Hull 209
I just replaced my topping lift line with 70’ of 5/16". You can get by with something much thinner, but it is hard on the hands. If you go much thicker you gain a lot of friction in the system.
The original topping lift arrangement just went thru some blocks and was cleated off at the back of the wishbone - hence the much shorter line length.
For a safety line just make it longer than you might reasonably want, adjust it to where you want it, and cut off the extra.
Ralph Bush
1983 N26C #104
“Hyggelig”
EYC, Toronto, ON
My topping lift is 70’ of 1/4" Yacht Braid.
The blocks at the end of the boom are 5 to 1. There is just enough length in 70 feet to go to 6 to 1 blocks.
I added little blocks along the boom to try and reduce friction, it is still hard to lift but I don’t need a winch, the boom has a Murray Cressman extension on it and is heavy.
If I did it again I would go to a more slippery thinner line at 6to1. Wherever the Yacht Braid chafes a little the cover is getting fuzzy and this just increases the friction. The plan is to splice a larger line to the end in the cockpit for my hands.
I just tie off a safety line at the right length. Having it just a little too long is good because the topping lift has to be a little slack to get the right sail shape. Every boat and sail will be different.
The blooper halyard is the flag halyard? I don’t have one. A blooper is like a narrow spinnaker and I guess it would be used in light air downwind.
Tom
26C #28 North Star
Penetang
Thanks everyone for the remarks on the topping lift length. I think I’ll go with 3/8” and 75-80’ of something that doesn’t twist. That’s my issue now, the line is so twisted between the blocks that it adds a ton of friction.
About the safety line for the back of the wishbone, I was going to go with wire shackled to the wire on the topping lift and then shackled to the back of the wishbone, that’s why I wanted the length. I think 43” plus the shackles would be long enough.
I think any line will cause the twisting. What you have to do is lock the blocks from turning. There is a little setscrew in the base of most of the bigger blocks. Just untwist and tighten this setscrew and that problem will go away. Have a look.
Tom
Hi all,
I see that most of the topping lifts have more mechanical advantage at the aft end of the boom than what is currently on my 26C. I have a simple 2:1 MA where the 5/16" line travels from a turning block on the port side of the boom and then up through a single sheave hanging from the bottom end of the topping lift cable, and finally terminating with a Bowline tied to the aft of the boom. I am not comfortable at all with this light an arrangement. I am planning on adding blocks to increase the MA to at least a 4:1 and possible a 5:1 if I can find a suitable double sheave block with a becket. Could any members provide guidance on my plans? I am curious what blocks you are using and if they are swiveling or fixed.
Pat Furr
Bandolero
NS 26 C
Charlotte, VT
I use a single with a becket shackled to the boom casting attachment point, together with a fiddle (Garhauer) shackled to the eye of the topping lift. This arrangement doesn’t get twisted up, increased the purchase by one over the previous setup, and gives me plenty of advantage.
Ed Cook
Chat-eau N26C 173
Middle River, MD
Thanks Ed, I really like the idea of sticking with a fiddle up top and a single with becket to terminate which should will keep all lines on a single plane and reduce the tendency to twist.
Pat Furr
Bandolero
NS 26 C #133
Charlotte, VT
Pat
Check out the Garhauer Marine site, a great source in general for Nonsuch hardware, or go directly to https://www.garhauermarine.com/blocks/fiddle-blocks-73/fiddle-blocks-with-shackle.html
to see the choice of the type of blocks needed to make up a higher ratio system. I’m not sure which size you would need but someone else will and Garhauer can help. They are extremely good to work with and have very fair pricing for quality and attractive products. In my head I see it as just needing two with shackles; one with a becket, the other not. I will try to check a previous source if I can find it.
I just checked and I appear to be correct of the fiddle blocks. Also, if you do this, be very careful not to twist line going through the assembly.
Fred Rachwitz
Concerto
NS 30 U #445
Harbor Springs, Michigan
northern Lake Michigan