I have a Barient self tailing model 24-45 winch. The self tailing mechanism is turning when under load with the winch thus not “self tailing”. Does anyone know if this can be fixed, possibly with Barient repair kit sold by West Marine? Or do I need to replace and if any recommendations.
Take a look at the video in the link below. Depending on what you are seeing, you have stuck or broken pawls or less likely broken or missing screws holding the self tailing jaws to the drum.
I just finished servicing Barient ST 22 yesterday. If the pawls are okay you should hear them clicking as you slowly turn the winch in both directions using winch handle. But if the self tailing isn’t working, it could be the 4 screws with springs that hold the top of the winch together have come unscrewed. You need to undue the centre plate (see piece in lower right corner of attached photo) on top of the winch using a pin/grinder wrench tool. See protruding screw with spring in the other photo.
Don
I suspect from the photo that a pawl (is that what I am seeing)is out of place and preventing the bearing from going down all the way and it may be preventing the bell housing from seating all the way down.
As a result the outside teeth on the top of the shaft is not high enough to engage with the internal teeth on the self tailer.
Whenever I rebuild mine it’s always a challenge to reassemble without fiddling with it.
It’s happened to me and when I fiddle with the bell it clunks and drops down on the base.
You don’t need a new winch.
An important thing with winches and especially the palls is don’t over lube. Too much grease gets “cooked” when the winch gets hot from the sun and thickens and hardens. It takes a lot of time and effort to remove this solar cooked goo. Once everything is clean, I have found that light oil like synthetic motor oil is better for the palls. Lithium grease for the bearings but light coatings.
You do have to clean and lube more often, but they work better and our winches are not that complicated. Cleaning and lightly lubing 3 or 4 times a year is not a big deal unless you hear a small splash or two while doing it. I use an aluminum turkey roasting pan for the parts and WD-40 too clean with, but only as a solvent. I have spare pall springs because they have a tendency to sprong off into space. Once you do your winchs a few times you can clean and relube them in short order provided nothing goes overboard.
Not sure what Bill Evans is referring to. The photos are of a winch I serviced last year, there was nothing wrong with it. The photos were only to show the top cap and the screws with springs.
Don
I just cleaned and greased my Barient 24-45 sheet winch a week ago. It was easy, but took a few hours because the grease had hardened to something resembling shellac. What prompted the service was that the last time we used it it squeaked once. That was enough to motivate me because I don’t want to buy a new winch and Barient parts are not easy to get, so I need to take better care of this one. When I was finished we discovered on our next sail that it is a 2-speed winch! It only worked in high gear before this. (Yes, I know it says 2-speed on the top.
So I’d suggest that you take the thing apart and look over each piece carefully. If nothing is broken, then clean it, lube it, put it back together correctly, and see if that helps.
One of our list members, Peter Grabow, made a series of videos where he serviced his Barient winch. Here is the playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLCwOAOeGSK7XLGxppkKRQe4_ejqBPy2Sd
(Be sure and “like” his videos. If he gets a million likes he might get enough money from YouTube to buy a new winch. Or maybe a winch handle. Or a spring kit. Or…)
I think I see a 22 on the top of his winch, which is a different model from the 24-45. There are some design differences which I’ll try to list here, but most of these winches are pretty similar to each other (even across brands) and those videos are very helpful. Here are the differences that I think you’ll need to care about:
In the video he unscrews the top to start the disassembly. On my 24-45 it was different. I had to poke a 1/4" Allen wrench down into the hole where the winch handle goes and unscrew it that way. You need to get a good grip on the winch drum in order to break the screw loose. Otherwise your Allen wrench will just act like a tiny little winch handle and turn the drum instead of the screw.
Once you remove the screw and that cup-like part from the center of the winch you can lift off the self-tailer. Beneath the self-tailer you’ll see a molded black plastic piece. Pay attention to the orientation of that when you remove it and look it over carefully for damage as it is the part that locks the self-tailer into place. You can also change the direction that the line leads out from the winch by changing the orientation of this piece.
After this you can lift off the drum. This is where you can examine the self-tailing-cleat mechanism for damage.
The next difference shows up in video 4. Look right at the very end where he removes the small gear from the squared off end of the shaft. On the 24-45 this gear is held onto the shaft by a tight little split ring sort of retainer. Getting this ring off is fussy and is really the only part of this whole project that seems in any way difficult to me. I used a small screwdriver to pry up the end of the ring and then just worked my way around the shaft a little at a time until it was clear of the groove and then slid it off. It will probably make more sense when you are sitting there holding it and your small flat screwdriver.
Finally, about the kit that West Marine sells. It is just pawls and springs. Sort of. They actually list the kit as well as offering the pawls and springs separately. But if you go to actually order them, the only thing they seem to ever have in stock is the springs. The kit is made by Lewmar and so someplace else might stock the full kit.
I think it would be wise to get the spring kit before you start. Springs have a way of, well, of springing. Boing! and it’s gone. If you can get the pawl kit, it would be good insurance. But if you are at all careful, you probably won’t lose the pawls and I can’t see how they could get damaged while inside of the winch. I saw no sign of wear on them in either of the two winches I’ve serviced on this boat so far, but this is the limit of my experience so I could be wrong.
If your self-tailer is turning because the molded plastic part is broken, then the kit won’t help you. In that case you might need to consult with Hutton Winches in Australia. They apparently have some parts for Barient winches, though not every part. Their website is www.huttonwinches.com or you can email to sales@huttonwinches.com. They do answer and seem very knowledgeable and helpful. They can advise on more than just parts availability. They seem to really know these winches well.
I am looking for parts for subject winch. Pictures are attached, the inside fitting that has lugs for the self tailing ring has broken where it threads into main housing. Also the keeper ring on outside of winch is broken and the inner piece where lugs fit into has hair-line cracks.
Murf Hudson
Would this be an opportune time to mention that West Marine is having its annual 2 for 1 sail on Lewmar winches? A previous owner replaced the original halyard and sheet winches with Lewmar Ocean series. They also put a small non-self tailing on for the reefing winch. Would like to get tailing here.