So, I’ve read the manuals, looked in past conversations and I’m sorry but what the heck. I don’t have 2 holes to unscrew anything. Not on the side or on the top or hiding somewhere else for that matter. I’ve removed the split ring and the round plate on the top and there is nothing there to unscrew. Do I unscrew the tailing piece? If so how. I can’t unscrew the 4 bolts because they are under the trailer so???
I’m going to go crazy over this - it should be and probably is simple but it evades me. HELP!
David Godfrey
Thursdays Child NS30C #145
RNSYS Halifax NS Canada
Sorry, I missed the part of your email saying you’d already removed the split ring. But if you go to the web page link I posted, below the diagram, there are instructions on how to take apart the winch. Step #2 says to unscrew the line lifter by turning it counter-clockwise. Maybe apply a little penetrating oil first and tap it lightly with a mallet, or block of wood and a hammer if you don’t have a mallet.
Attached is a pic of my Barient 19, part disassembled. You can see it probably has not been touched since the war of 1812.
Flat ring, with wood, hit the self-tailer to unscrew. You can see the threads in the pic where the self-tailer sits, and the groove for the keeper ring.
I have a bunch of pictures, easy to take when taking things apart, but I think this one should help the most.
Here’s another picture - you can see the parts in a box, parts that got removed from the winch shaft assembly.
I mentioned “soft wood” for unscrewing the self-tailer; I know you’ll know what I mean, but for others, I held a bit of pine 2x4 against the self tailer, and hit the wood with a hammer - the wood is softer so it is kind to the finish (and shape!) of the self tailer. No need to dent the self-tailer arm.
My winch was loose, so I took it off, home for a very good cleaning, then a re-assemble. If you do that, make sure you know where the gears at the base are pointing; there’s 5 (if I remember correctly) holes in the base; if you re-assemble with the shaft assembly in the wrong setting, the self-tailer will not be pointing as it was.
In the box, Drum, self tailer, bronze upper rub-bearing, underneath the drum you can see the top chrome plate and the flat spring clip.
If you do need more pictures of the innards, please ask. It’s a solid winch, very old-school in construction, and was a pleasure (honest!) to clean.
JohnS NS26C 046 with fairly clean winches, all 5 of them, Bath ON.
It looks like the retaining ring has been removed as you reported. Force is now required. Tap a straight blade screwdriver between the stripper arm and top self tailing ring. I bet the winch has not been apart in a long time. Corrosion products need to be overcome.
That’s my best guess.
Sorry, I missed the part of your email saying you’d already removed the split ring. But if you go to the web page link I posted, below the diagram, there are instructions on how to take apart the winch. Step #2 says to unscrew the line lifter by turning it counter-clockwise. Maybe apply a little penetrating oil first and tap it lightly with a mallet, or block of wood and a hammer if you don’t have a mallet.
I read those directions. Step 8 says to remove the base from the boat and turn it upside down. It takes two people and partial disassembly of my overhead just to grease this winch? Or is there some other, possibly more fiddly, way to do this?
Brian,
I was working on cleaning and lubing my Barient ST22 winch today. Its a little tough to tell from the diagram, but mine come apart differently. The centre core piece, and accompanying gears, can be removed separately, leaving the base plate screwed to the deck. See photo. I have worked on other boat’s winches that requires complete removal to clean and lube.
Don
Thank you everyone for the help. So it turns out that my usual last ditch effort to fix something by whacking it with a hammer would have been the right move. Hahaha, it just proves once again that a guys methodical way of thinking works - duct tape or whack it with a hammer, either one fixes everything.
I do find it odd that none of the online Barient manuals mentioned unscrewing the trailing arm. Might be good to have this info as well as the other winch manuals on the INA manuals page.
Thank you again for the help.
John or Don, is there 2 bearings or just 1. The manual shows 2 and John, your photo shows 1 which is all mine has. The drum doesn’t seem tight (that’s the main reason I wanted to take the winch apart) when assembled so I assume there should be 2??
By the way,I didn’t take the winch off but did clean the exposed gears as best I could and cleaned the 1 bearing so it did make a big difference in the “click” of the winch.
Never mind my last email. I was looking at the wrong manual. I had Don’s and the other Barient 19 manual open. The newer 19’s have 2 bearings. Still though, it seems like mine should have 2 because when assembled there is a slight wobble when moving the drum back and forth from the top. The bottom of the drum is firm but the top not so much.
David - like yours, mine wobbles still. It’s why I took it apart in the first place, THEN noticed that the base was loose on the cabin top.
The roller cage is where the forces are, the top bronze sleeve doesn’t take much force.
I’d agree with doing the greasing that you did; mine had congealed grease, and needed rebedding, so it was completely cleaned.
Boat is currently covered; one spring task is to have another peek at this winch, before launch, just to check it’s not loose again. (worry-wart here, I guess)
JohnS NS26C 046 Boat suntanning on the hard in Bath, ON.
My Barient ST22 has two bearings. I did my Barient 17 last year, and from the diagram and my photos it looks like the 17 only has one bearing. But, turn your drum upside down and look inside, a 2nd bearing could stuck up inside it.
Don
