My Westerbeke 27hp engine has two Racor filters with plastic bowls. One is full of fuel and the other has a couple of inches of air. When I turn on the ignition the fuel flows down, but the air remains. Is this normal? The manual says the system is self bleeding so I expected the air to go away, but it does not.
Also the surveyor says to install a metal bowl. Has anyone done this? Is there a conversion kit or do I replace both filters?
Mark Kochendorfer
1984 NS30U #256?
Bayfield, WI Lake Superior
Our fuel system became heavily contaminated with water. The mechanics resolution to the water problem resulted in air being trapped in the racor filter. The engine is running fine, maybe 7 or so hours over the last three days. But the air bubble does not seem to be getting smaller.
Sorry I can’t help by offering a suggestion other than to say you are not alone.
I will send a separate post describing what caused our water issue when we get back to our home port next week.
My Westerbeke 27hp engine has two Racor filters with plastic bowls. One is full of fuel and the other has a couple of inches of air. When I turn on the ignition the fuel flows down, but the air remains. Is this normal? The manual says the system is self bleeding so I expected the air to go away, but it does not.
Also the surveyor says to install a metal bowl. Has anyone done this? Is there a conversion kit or do I replace both filters?
Mark Kochendorfer
1984 NS30U #256?
Bayfield, WI Lake Superior
The air space in the filter bowl is usually caused when a filter is changed. The Racor instructions say to top up the filter bowl with fresh diesel before installing the cap after installing a new filter. I think some people skip this step. It takes a very long time for the bowl to refill on its own. I would suggest removing the cap and topping it up with fresh diesel. I don’t think running it with the bowl not topped up causes any difficulties unless the bowl is so empty that the pump starts to suck air. I guess the safe thing to do would be to top it up.
Jamie Morrison
Dexterity II
30U 225
Halifax, Nova Scotia
I recently read an article which suggested the plastic sight bowl on fuel filters was a fire hazard, because the bowl could melt in an engine room fire and add more diesel fuel to the flames. Depending on the relative location of the filter and the fuel tank, it might drain the whole tank into the fire. That seems far-fetched to me.
I suspect that Racor and others are also uncomfortable with the thesis. They could solve it by offering glass sight bowls, such as the ones I recall on very old gasoline carburetors or filters on cars.
Bottom line: I wouldn’t worry about it until the insurance companies start insisting it be fixed.
Joe Tierney, Boatless (ex-Allegro, 1992 NS33 #64), Annapolis, MD
A. I don’t know why you would have two filters except in a third world country. B. I’ve not ever had this problem of air in the top of the Raycor. When I change filter cartridges, I turn the fuel valve on for a minute and it fills the assembly up. Then I let the pump run for a minute and I’m ready to go. I agree, that with a metal bowl you can’t see what’s in there. Raycor, however, does make a metal shield for the bottom of most of their units as a heat shield. Also, as I’ve mentioned before, in the spring, I place a tube at the bottom of my tank and pump out whatever is there.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Mark, this also has been a bit of an annoyance for me. Everytime, I quickly inspect this before heading off and for some reason it’s usually always full except about once a month I see the bowl is half full. ??!!!??? Self priming? Phhuuut, yah right. Obviously, some air got in the system, or the orange O-ring on top of the bowl lost it’s seal, but I can’t figure out how the “full bowl” can go to “half full” in one trip. I end up scratching my head over the issue and just go back to topping it up.
Remember … *** You need to close the fuel supply valve at the top of the tank prior to opening the bowl, otherwise the fuel in the supply line will flow back in the tank and the supply line will be empty***.
I had considered replacing this filter unit before, but somewhat reluctant since we can now easily see if the fuel and filter are clean, water free, and filled. Otherwise, it’s only a guessing game with a metal canister version.
Jack Dokter
Nine Lives 26C W21 099
Penetanguishene, On
Which way the fuel flows is dependent upon which part of the system is higher. My filter is lower then the tank. Yours, obviously, is higher. I don’t remember which system is recommended. Will have to do some research.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Mine was made with two filters as far as I can tell (the manual). I will have to check, but I am pretty certain the filters are above the tank too–so gravity won’t feed them. The metal shield is probably what I need since this was noted in the survey which went to the insurance company. Certainly if gravity can feed the bowls then it makes sense to protect them from fire.
Often two filters will be installed so if one would clog while running, you could switch over to the other and keep going while you deal with the problem. In this case there would be a valve to choose which filter is active. You see this mainly on Bluewater boats and it’s likely overkill on our Nonsuch’s. Regarding the metal bowl, I don’t believe that is required on our small engines. Racor makes several filters that don’t use metal bowls. You might get a clarification from your surveyor as to why that suggestion.
P. S. mine is a single, very old Racor filter. I don’t believe it is original but must have been in there for a long time. I’m thinking of replacing it with a new, spin-on type Racor for easier maintenance.
Jack ,the problem I recently had was that this time I replaced the large O ring that came with the filter also, but found that the engine would not start ( the first time in 14 years, scary ) . Eventually found that the large O ring was not seated properly,because the manner that it was packaged , being rolled up to reduce size and then difficult to seat.
Bob Jenkins ,
Good News 30 U # 323
Bluffers Park YC
Toronto
Bob,
I had the same situation. The first time I changed that O-ring, I thought I had it properly seated until I was about 1/2 way out of the slip when the engine went silent. Quite a scary situation but managed to scramble and secure the vessel in place. To solve the problem I luckily saved the old O-ring and re-used it. That was about 4 filter changes since because it’s impossible to use the new rings as what you mentioned. They’re all scrunched up to a point where it’s impossible to use unless you glue them in place somehow. Maybe it’s time to figure out how to reshape a new ring and have it installed.
I can understand the frustration with the new “O” rings. However, they will work and I’ve never had one leak. Just be patient and make sure it is in the groove. Possibly if you let it set for a bit after removing from the package.
Joe Valinoti
S/V IL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Gary,
I tried a something you mentioned earlier. I let the O-Ring sit in a bowl of hot water for awhile. Within a few minutes, the ring was manageable enough to work with. Finally, we have a new Oring gasket installed with the water separator bowl.