I am getting into my winterization procedure ; my first-ever winterzation !
I replaced replaced my engine oil and oil filter. Started the engine. No problem!
Today, I replaced all 3 fuel filters successfully. Then I opened the fuel line and fired up the engine…and it would NOT start! Obviously, i turned ON the fuel valve in the fuel tank.
My engine is a self-bleeding system and has NO manual lever or pump and so I did:-
-Open FULL throttle
Turn and depress key to ON position for 10 seconds for glow plug
-Start the engine
Struggle so much to start and i crank for about 10 seconds
Then I turn down the throttle to shut the engine off
I let the engine to cool for 3 minutes while keeping the key in the ON position( without depressing it) and keep FULL throttle
I had a very similar problem. As most people in this group will tell you, the problem is fuel related, and most likely the seating of a filter.
If you have a Racor filter, the problem could be the placement of the O-ring. It is usually difficult to keep it in its groove before fastenning the top. If the O-ring is not properly in place air will enter the system causing issues similar to yours..
A solution is to wipe the O-ring with Vaseline to make it sticky and stay in its groove. Others might suggest other substances, but the point is to make sure there is a proper fit with no air leaks.
Let us know if this or another solution worked for you.
Hi Shirley,
Soave has a Universal diesel, so I hesitate to offer advice, other than to say hang in and don’t get frustrated. What you learn now, will pay dividends in the future.
I’ve heard stories of folks getting tripped up by a marginal fuel pump that has trouble moving fuel after the system has been opened up for changing filters. Be open to that possibility, after eliminating the more probable causes.
Keep at it, you will prevail.
Rob
s/v SOAVE
NS33 #009
Cedar Point YC
Westport, CT
Shirley: After you get this sorted out, in the future, change your procedure to include turning the key on without cranking and let the pump run for a good minute. Self bleeding works because you have an electric pump. Listen for the pump clicking. If everything is OK, the clicking should slow down measurably or stop when the system has bled the air out. Then you can glow plug and start. Also, the W-27 glow plug system should be at least 18 seconds long to get hot enough with a cold engine.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Shirley,
You may want to check that the kill cable lever in the cockpit lock is fully down. And in the engine compartment that it is in the run position. You may have somehow moved it while working on the engine. I once had trouble staring my engine and it was just the kill cable not fully returned to run position.
Cheers
Don
Yes I fired it many times… it struggled but at the end, it started. It is only when I lower to 2000rpm from 4000rpm (full throttle) that it dies out . I am waiting for my Racor bowl next Monday and hope this can resolve
There is a leak in the racor bowl seal when the electric fuel pumps operate . No leak when it stops . So I guess the non-brand bowl cannot handle the pressure
Be careful when repeatedly cranking the engine if it does not start. There is a real risk of filling the waterlift muffler with seawater, because there is no exhaust pressure yet to blow it out. Once the waterlift is full, seawater can backflow through the exhaust port into a cylinder.
You can prevent this by: Opening the raw-water strainer lid so the pump draws air instead of water, or Closing the seacock, so the impeller simply circulates the water already in the pump housing, with less chance of overheating.
Important: in both cases, make sure to restore the cooling system to normal operation as soon as the engine starts.
I finally got my fuel filter problem fixed and started the engine properly!
The problem was my “electric fuel pump” not working properly and the air was still trapped inside the fuel system. I discovered there is a manual pump on top of my racor fuel/water separator unit. See photo attached. I opened the air vent (the silver nut valve), opened the black knob and pulled it up. I started pumping until I hear no more air bubble coming from the primary filter. I did not open any “bleed nuts”…I only “listened” until no air bubble “noise”
BIG LESSON LEARNT! Sometimes, we really cannot rely on the electric fuel pump…it keeps making click click click but in reality, it isn’t pumping any fuel out!
