No, but in 2021, when bending on the sail, I erred and forgot the tack shackle at home. A bit of thin line from the “random short bits of rope” bag got us through the year without issues.
Does that count for anything??
John Stewart ns26c 46 Bath On
I was reminded of another advantage of lashing last month. I was bending on my repaired sail and had it laid out in the stack pack and over the dodger frame and was hauling away trying to pull it back to attach. The sail on a 33 is heavy! But when I started on my lashing (small line, 7-8 mm I think) and got to the 3rd or 4th trip from the choker shackle to the clew cringle the mechanical advantage made it easy to bring it back. I have used 5-6 wraps for years now and have had no problems, and can adjust easily if needed.
Nick C.
Nonsuch 33 #51
Washington, NC
Hi Nick,
I am negotiating to buy a Nonsuch 33 and would need to have it trucked. That means taking the mast down and sails off and such. So about how much does that sail weigh? Do you think one person can get it down and into the cabin or would it take two? (Or more?)
Thanks,
Brian,
My 354 is the same sail size as the 33. Mine weighs ~60 lbs without battens, but I have 10oz Challenge Marblehead cloth, which is pretty heavy. Particularly lugging it up to the 2nd floor sail lofts.
For me it’s definitely a much easier two man job, but I’m an old (just turned 70) guy lol.
My sail is the same about 8 years old; I remove it annually for winter storage purposes. Folded on the boat, it might be bulky to get through the cabin companionway. I have never. I take it down the dock, bagged in a cart to my car, than home. At home, I can spread it full length, flake and fold it much flatter than on the boat. It still a bear for two people but manageable.
Ken Dakin
NS 33 #7
Sashay
Kingston ON
I do what Ken does for removal and folding. Just can’t get that bear to cooperate properly on the boat. Seems like more than 60 pounds and very awkward.
Nick C.
NS 33 51
Washington, NC
The original hole that held the shackle on the wishbone (that connects with the clew ) has elongated due to wear. Why couldn’t I use a Dyneema wrap with a shackle around the end of the wishbone? It would simply be a matter of connecting the shackle to the clew. At the end of the season the shackle is removed from the sail and remains on the end of the wishbone. My boat and wishbone is stored indoors.
Phil Harmeson
Catharsis.
1985 U30
Traverse City, Michigan
Hi Phil -
What you are proposing is one of many adapted variations, using a short piece of Dyneema, that provides 100% of flexibility at the clew, will last for years, uses no metal and will stop the wear on the hole in the stern casting of the boom.
On BOTH front and back of the boom, you’ll find a hole in the casting. In the front, this is where the boom choker block attaches to. In the back, ultimately, it’s where the sail clew ring attaches. In both cases, on my former NS 22, the holes were really worn. At the front of the boom, basically, I took a 2’ length of (1/4" or 3/16" ?? I forget but it’s DAMN strong) and , after removing the shackle from the hole, I passed the Dyneema through the hole and right around the casting and back through the hole. Now, I have 2 ends coming out the hole. I then loop both ends of the Dyneema though the Becket of the choker block and tie a few serious knots (and maybe throw a stitch in as knots in Dyneema can loosen). In short, I tied the choker block to the front of the boom. The force is on the FRONT of the casting as the Dyneema wraps around the casting but the old, beaten up hole ONLY serves to keep the line centred. NB - if the hole is chafed up and has any sharp edges, those surfaces should be smoothed so they don’t chafe the Dyneema. At the back of the boom, same deal. I end up tying the clew ring of the sail to the back of the boom. NO shackle. It has always been recommended to lash the clew to the boom for flexibility (and for, possibly, being able to cut the lash, in a pinch). At the back, I’d use a 3’ length and, if necessary, wrap it through twice Or even 3 times). As long as the line goes around the entire casting, it’ll work (for years).
I’ve attached a couple of things that MAY help. In the photo, the lashing still goes through a shackle in that hole at the back of the boom. In the end, out came the shackle and, like at the front, there’s nothing but Dyneema.
Best,
Ernie A. in Toronto
(attachments)
Word doc re choker block attachment.pdf (81.7 KB)
Diagram of choker block attached to boom.pdf (101 KB)
I’ve been simply using a soft shackle, passed thru the hole in the boom, then wrapped around the clew ring 2-3 times, to make it as short as possible. This year I remembered to do this before attaching the sail at the mast track, so it was a little easier to get at.
Don
’87 NS30U #369 - Breezin’
Vancouver, BC
The last couple posts have done a really nice job of laying out options.
The key thing, whichever way it’s done, is to look at your set-up to ensure that you’re minimizing chafe. IMHO.
– Bob
Me Gusta
Nonsuch e26U #233
Looking forward to seeing folks in Toronto:
https://nonsuch.org/2024-INA-International-Rendezvous-Status
I agree, Bob.
Ernie A. in Toronto
This old thread came up at a very good time. While I was checking why my running lights on the mast weren’t working (corroded bulb socket) I noticed that the choker tackle block on the wishbone seems to have completely lost its sheave and the rope is running on the axle pin. It also seems that the hole is elongated as others have mentioned. It looks like I will be lashing the new block to the boom casting as suggested above.
This is an SMC locking D carabiner rated at 25000kg. After the old hardware parted I considered dyneema and other options, then remembered my box of old rock climbing gear. The Carabiner has been there for about a year and has been tested by considerable winds. It is is made of alloy. I call this a King hack. So far so good.
Dave King
Suey
N22 #35. Alameda CA
David -
What is being discussed here is not some immensely strong method of attaching things to the either boom end. You are quite correct - that carabiner will pull your house, no doubt. What we are discussing is how to keep those two silly holes, one at each end of the boom, from getting abraded, eventually elongating and actually opening up, a “no fun” experience in the midst of a bracing sail (or anytime, actually).
Many of us have found that metal bolts (like what your photo shows) that go through the hole WILL, for sure, wreck that hole. What will save it (and allow the END of the boom to to take the load, NOT just the hole) is to use a short length of Dyneema in the manner that I recently described a little ways back. The Dyneema goes through the hole and around the outside of the casting and back through the hole.
By keeping metal out of those holes, you’ll save the existing holes.
Ernie A. in Toronto