Thanks Mark et al,
Considering that a can of Epiphanes varnish is waiting on the workbench, I will use that but will get Fabulon next time. Maybe open the hoding locker door and set up a few pins to go bowling?
Regarding the polymeric sand, does anyone add it to make for a better grip in the cabin?
The issue you will find with spar varnish like Epifanes is they are for spars that flex and is a “soft” surface. So they are not as durable as floor finishes.
We recently used this product to finish a table that gets lots of use. It was easy to apply, rolled on and tipped with a foam brush. At room temp we simply applied a coat, sanded with 320, tacked it off then re coated … every 3 hours.
When we were done I buffed the whole thing with automotive swirl remover with a foam pad on my drill… looks like a mirror.
Being inside UV is not an issue. But I do wish Ultimate Sole was still around 
I wish that didn’t make sense because now I am unsure what to do. Something which does mention floors is probably good for floors, as opposed to Epiphanes “traditional varnish” which talks about UV resistance. Unless anyone jumps up and down and yells not to do it, I’m going with that Varathane but in a gloss finish. Probably only two coats because it is a floor and there are already two coats of epoxy and I am pragmatic.
Cabin sole update.
After the winter there was still evidence of the stripper so I took the advice and washed the board with water and oxyclean, dried them, plugged the holes with teak plugs and lightly sanded.
I ended up coating the top and bottom with System3 S-1 penetrating epoxy. There were some parts of the veneer that were coming off so I reasoned the S-1 would be a better glue than the Fabulon. The S-1 really soaks in, it cures very hard eventually(two days, but it was cool weather).
Reports say the Fabulon is very smelly (toxic VOCs), but it is no where near as smelly(toxic VOCs) as the S-1. It may be a new formula because it is about as smelly as regular Varathane polyurathane finish. Strangely it was 1/3rd the price of the Varathane but it was hard to find.
Sanded all the bumps and other defects and cleaned the dust. Then 3 coats of Fabulon Satin. It is still a bit glossy, and I did stir the pot constantly. In the end it looks good, seems to be very hard and a kind of bowling alley look.
Tom
26C #28
Penetang
Looks great Tom.
You need a stripper that doesn’t wear high heels!! Or am I misreading your email??
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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[/details]Joe; great response! Made me smile on this yet-another COVID lockdown day.
Thanks!
John A. Stewart
NS26C 046
Ottawa, ON.
I found the same as Tom with the System Three S-1 two part epoxy. The first coat was soaked up like a sponge in the dry places. A second coat sealed it. I was less diligent in patching the bad spots and it still looks great. After a discreet test in a hidden spot, dollar store touchup markers worked well enough for a 36-year old boat. After that we differ slightly, I used Varathane Diamond Flooring (one part), two coats. Varathane was great with online help.
The problem with Nonsuchs is that without a mast in the middle of the boat, there is no pole [for the stripper]. Yes, put a smile on my face too in these lockdown days, but turned into a frown thinking of those heels on the nice fresh floor.