I want to change the impeller on the Westerbeke 27, but I’m surprised at how difficult it is to reach it. What have others done to make access a little easier?
Thanks,
Jim Lieder
Sixpence #350 - Nonsuch 30 Ultra
Lake St. Clair, Michigan
In years past, I would have suggested buying a SpeedSeal cover as it makes the task much easier. However, SpeedSeal was a small business and the owner had to shut it down when he had health issues. Many of us hoped he would sell the business and let someone new continue on. I think he was initially reluctant but now I see ads that the business is for sale. So there may be hope for the future.
Jim Cosgrove
FATE 30U #343
Galesville MD
I looked into SpeedSeal and found the same bad news. As a second choice I replaced about half the screws with studs that I made from longer bolts. Now I can reach down with the gasket in one hand and locate it on the studs and then come back for the cover. So far I’m just using regular nuts on the studs but wing nuts would be nice when I can find some. The remaining screws are easy to put in once the cover is solidly in place.
Paul M
NS30U #211, Sandpiper
Cowichan Bay, B.C.
Jim: The easiest way I’ve found on mine is to remove the whole pump assembly by taking off the 4 nuts. To do this, on mine, I remove the strainer and associated hoses to give me room to work. Once the pump is out, it’s very simple to replace the impeller. The photos above are of what I see when going down the starboard lazerette. It takes me 20 minutes to remove and less 30 minutes to re-install. A suggestion is to replace all hoses you remove while you’re at it.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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[/details]I think it depends on the pump style. If the impellor has a circlip to remove, I doubt it can be done. Also, it depends on the boat. If the electric panel is on the starboard side, the only access is through the lazerette. I can sit comfortably in there and work.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
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With the Stbd access that I now have and the studs, impeller changes are really easy. Maybe fifteen to twenty minutes including getting the impeller out and back in. I don’t have a circlip on the impeller though. Didn’t even know they came that way.
Thank you for all the replies on changing an impeller on a Westerbeke 27. I’m really surprised how difficult it is to reach the impeller on the Nonsuch 30’s. I ended up removing the pump assembly by removing 4 bolts. I’m glad I did it that way because the Impeller is held in place with a C-clip that requires a c-clip tool to remove.
The rubber washer in the attached picture is broken and I sent to get a new part, but my Westerbeke dealer didn’t see this part in the parts catalog. Does anyone know if this part is required and if so, what the part number is? It went around the impeller shaft.
Thanks,
Jim
There can be two or three raw water pumps on a W-27. What number is yours, Jim??
Joe
My Westerbeke 27 has only one raw water pump, and I remove the impeller every winter..
It requires a contortionist to reach it.
I have no idea where the antifreeze circulation pump is.
Ed Collis
ORION VII (For Sale)
NS30U 298
Toronto
Yes, one raw water pump but they have been superseded more then once
Joe
Stupid me.
I thought you meant at the same time.
Hahahahaaaa
Eddy
Hi Jim, I believe it is part #11 in your diagram and that’s Westerbeke part #24821 which is a seal.
Ron
Ron & Diane Schryver
“Alpha Waves” 1987 NS30U #393
Geaogian Bay Midland ON
That pump is the original number and was replaced with a 37431. What you show looks like an “O” ring to me and l don’t see it in the exploded diagram nor do I remember ever seeing one on that pump. There are to two #11’s and if you’re handy, replace them while the pump is out.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
Hi Ed,
Just for informational purposes here is a photos of the ‘Fresh Water’ (antifreeze/coolant) pump on my Westerbeke 27A. I had to replace it last year… not nearly as tough of a job as I anticipated. The pump is between the two blue arrows. There are four bolts on the face of the flywheel that aren’t visible because the engine/pump is running.
Peter Grabow
S/V CAKE WALK III
1987 30 Ultra 430
Jersey City, NJ
![InkedInked20190330_160631_001[3]_LI.jpg](https://canada1.discourse-cdn.com/flex011/uploads/n26_115_233/original/2X/c/c9e3e8eb89164ec9fa008b8feba35e37488acfb6.jpeg)
For a couple of hundred dollars I just bought a second pump. If the impeller goes while I am on the water, I can just slap the new one in and the rebuild the other one when I am back in a harbor and have the time. It’s was a bit of money - I don’t really remember - I think it was about $300 - but worth it to me to have that ready solution in less than ideal circumstances. It also allows me to easily swap the pumps every couple of years to make sure that we have a good one on the motor.
Ned Chester
Pipe Dream, C30 # 230
Portland, Maine
Hi Peter;
I would never have guessed. There are no water hoses entering that unit, from what I see.
Ed Collis
ORION VII (For Sale)
NS30U 298
Toronto
Peter and Ned: You appear to be talking about two different pumps. Peter’s is really the circulation pump and Ned’s is the raw water pump.
Joe Valinoti
S/V iL Gatto NS30U #221
Sea Harbour YC
Oriental, NC USA
